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View Full Version : Tornanti road yarns...Parts 1+2


glitch
25-10-2007, 08:49 PM
For those, who've had the luck :P :P to not have seen all (or any) of the run-up to this ride, here’s a quick summary:

4 Melbournians and a Tassie-ite hire 5 BMW’s ex Milano/ Italy for a 6 week ride around the European Alps. Planned were 10.000km of the smallest and tiniest roads that can be found on good maps… some dirt included. From the South of France to Slovenia in the east, no major roads were involved, no factory tours, no city tours…just plain, old back-country delights and as many bends as one could cram into any given day....EVERY day !

No GPS or any of the geeky bullshit, just a good set of Michelin maps and the honker sniffing for opportunities as they show up… asking the locals along the way.

The timing proved to be on-the-money, a glorious autumn was in full swing, not too hot or cold and only 3 days of rain over the whole stretch. Some sight-seeing, some touristy bits…
The local harvest-fiestas were in full swing and no school-holidays anywhere…
The only accom booked were the first 2 nights…and the last night…in Milano and the first night ‘on-the-road” near Cuneo, south of Torino.
Everything else was sourced as we went.
Clothes for a week, no more….plus the usual bike/ riding gear (after all, there’s a 20kg limit imposed by the airlines).

Our budget of 100 Euro/day was spot-on, accom ranged from Youth Hostel to 3-Star Swiss Hotels (all at Low-season prices this time of year).
We enjoyed mostly the BnB’s and other private accommodation.
The budget also covered a fresh set of tyres, all entry fees, cable-car and train rides, a trip to the Jungfraujoch and other items…it even covered the drinks and buying small knickknacks to take home.


Do it the same way again??

You BET YOUR ARSE !!! :lol: :thumbs: :chug:

With a few, small tweaks and a fresh set of maps (the old ones got trashed by continuous abuse).
One change would be a day of scooter-hire in Milano….to partake in the urban scooter-drags. Christ, what a buzz !!!
Line up at ANY red light at ANY given time for a race…. but the Grand Prix would be the rush-hour traffic from about 4pm!

Want the goss on the rest of it?
Then get a box of chips and a crate of Coke and read on…, it'll be a HUUGE one.....just like the trip itself 8) 8)

NB: The pics used in the ride report come from 5 different cameras...shot by the 5 different people. No idea, who's pic is what...but all agreed to having their pics included....all credits go to the crew as a whole.

glitch
25-10-2007, 08:50 PM
I wasn’t ashamed of that silent tear and the lump in my throat…
The huge pane of glass at Milano’s Airport Terminal felt cool and somehow soothing.

Above the smog-blanket of the industrious lowlands of Northern Italy, just right over there, towards Aosta, the white crowns of the snow-capped mountains hovered like a mirage.
6 weeks ago I’d had exactly the same view…. then it was a screaming invitation, a massive beckoning of those rocks to get into their midst.

There was anticipation, the call of the unknown, the tickle of discoveries and adventure.

Now, 6 weeks later, there was sadness…the heavy-hearted certainty, that those peaks would never, ever let me go…the yearning for those lumps of rock would never quit. …and I certainly didn’t want to leave !!

There was also a huge relief that all of us had made it back safe and sound…

The lump grew and tears flowed as the boarding call came through the PA…time to say final goodbyes to those piles of ice and rubble in the far distance and time to say goodbyes to 6 incredible weeks, unbelievable roads, stumping scenery and a big number of people along the way, who’d proven that in the end it’s the people who “make” a place!!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0001.jpg



It had started 2 and a half years ago as the “Euro-Alps ‘07”, then turned into the “Vino, Pasta & Tornanti” and along the way morphed into the “Speck, Quark & Schnaps”…and…”I want my Milo, there aren’t enough powerpoints & Fuck, another bit fell off my Beemer”…depending on which stage of the trip one talks about and who of the bunch is replying.

For some trivial dribble: 5 bikes ran a total of 40.000km without serious problems, plenty of thrills but NO spills. None of the bunch got injured or sick, so…there’s the boring part out of the way. We didn’t even have a flat…so, there ya go!
Regular “brown” moments were had by all, front tyres seemed to have an incredibly short life-span, Beemers LOVE fresh oil…every 2. day, that is.
More to the bikes later though….



And if you decide to stick with this haphazard tale you’ll get behind…

…the snow-poles of death,
… the power point-ratings,
…Meiringen’s Quark-and-Yoghurt Raid,
…an angel called Anna,
…loosing hearts to Milano’s women,
…Adventures at the “Strudelwirtin”,
…modifying GS12 seats,
…the tunnel from hell,
..”Gorge-ous”
…Slowenian Wonders,
…chasing a stark-raving Tasmanian down the SustenPass,
…“Lost in France”--- “Lost in Italy”---“Lost in Austria “
(and pretty much everywhere else),
…Pete’s brush with the “uniforms”,
…Shit-flicker country,
…raiding cheese-platters at breakfast, lunch and dinner
…under-dressed and over-exposed
…SNOW?—what fuggen snow? ,
…Heidi- the swaggering blonde customs officer….
…Pascals “castle”
…the roof of Europe
…”Panda-monium”
…the grand finale, Andermatt’s mind blowing rollercoaster
…”welcome at our place”----and heart-tearing farewells,
…The “Euros” can’t ride for shit ;-)
…speechless “Enduristi” at the Col de Morti
…the Assietta dream
…meeting the Alpenbiker Crew
…scraping bends till the arms fall off, welcome to the Dolomites
…I’m shitting myself…The Mangart in Slovenia
…”I haven’t drunk a beer in 10 years…PROST!!”
…Danny de Vito and Milano’s bordellos
…”which farkin’ country are we in?”


…and endless other tales all strung together by 8000km of the most magnificent single-laner roads and tracks, high-alpine country, glaciers and peaks, vistas so grand to make 5 Aussies go dead-quiet…

Over 10.000pics and 15hrs of video still have to be sorted and organized, things will take a little while….hope you don’t mind me leaning back, closing my eyes and ride it all over again…

I’LL BE BACK !!!!!

loz
26-10-2007, 11:13 AM
Ooh, I went on a bike ride. Ooh, I'm so good.


...sonofabitches.

glitch
26-10-2007, 12:25 PM
Ooh, I went on a bike ride. Ooh, I'm so good.


...sonofabitches.

Squeal, mate, squeal :P :P :P

motorradrudi
27-10-2007, 04:17 AM
Hi Pete,

I think, that'll become a very big big story!

Best greatings from the "Alpenbiker"

Rudi

glitch
27-10-2007, 07:12 PM
Hi Pete,

I think, that'll become a very big big story!

Rudi

Hi buddy

Ohhh Yeahhhh
that'll be a Biggie !!
Started sorting through the pics of the first day (Milano--no riding yet) and there's easily 100pics worth posting just there... :D :D .
Guess, I better break it up into many small posts to keep the pics-per-page down somewhat, otherwise even those with quick net-connects will have to wait forever until everything loads up.

motorradrudi
27-10-2007, 09:23 PM
Started sorting through the pics of the first day (Milano--no riding yet) and there's easily 100pics worth posting just there... :D :D .
Guess, I better break it up into many small posts to keep the pics-per-page down somewhat, otherwise even those with quick net-connects will have to wait forever until everything loads up.

I'll think you're in trouble! http://www.alpenbiker.eu/images/smilies/bigsmile2.gifhttp://www.alpenbiker.eu/images/smilies/bigsmile2.gifhttp://www.alpenbiker.eu/images/smilies/bigsmile2.gif

Ciao!
Rudi

iffracem
28-10-2007, 09:10 AM
So.......
'
where's the write up?

c'mon... c'mon... you've been back long enough.
Europe didn't teach you any manners I see....

what's that? 6 weeks work to catch up on? yards to mow? bills to pay?
ooo pluleeeez... get with the program.

And where are the other reprobates, still in a Milano lockup for visually molesting the local ladies and excessive drooling in cafe's? Except for Art of course, he'd be locked up for drooling on scooters :wink:

C'mon, you can't tease us and not post words n pics.
Rudi's doin' all the work for ya!

Oh yeah, welcome back ya bastids... i guess :upyrs:

glitch
28-10-2007, 11:17 AM
As BiancoBlu, the hiring mob in Milano/ Italy, offered “any BMW you want”
we’d agreed on 1-2 GS650s and 3-4 GS1200s, depending on their stock at the time we showed up.

A simple choice, really…since we didn’t know what to expect and planning on backroad touring rather than superslab and main-roads (leave that to the tourists on sporties :P ), the GS’s were the obvious choice.
Another consideration was that the bikes had to be comfortable for a 38day-on-the-road ride; no time to waste on sore backs, wrists and the such.

What we had to take was what we were given:
“No other bikes available at the moment”.
“But I’ll get 2 more GS12s to you as soon as possible…next week, let’s stay in touch via SMS”.

Hmph….no other choice than to grab what they’ve had there, they had us over a barrel as we WANTED to get out of Milano, PRONTO !

A 2006/7 GS650 with 19.000km and OEM panniers/ topbox.
A 2004 GS12 with 70something thousand K’s on the clock, OEM panniers, tankbag and Givi Topbox
A 2004 R1150RT with OEM luggage all-round. Also 70odd thousand k’s on the odo.
A 2005 R1150R, 40 or 50 thousand on the clock, full OEM luggage and tank bag.
And the true shitbucket of the bunch, a 2001 R1100RT, OEM luggage, with just under 100.000km on the clock.:huh

10 days later, the R1150R and the R11RT were swapped in Martigny/ Switzerland for two 2007 models GS12s with around 17.000km each on the dial.
Sure, all were hire-hacks for all of their previous lives, but at least the 650 and 2 of the 3 GS12’s were fairly fresh bikes.

Between TimTim, Karel, Tim and I, we’d been talking on and off about our interests in possibly owning a GS12 at some stage…let’s see what came out of it.

The GS650 spooled the 8000km easily…the low, non-adjustable seat gave long-legged Goodie some grief at the start, but she got used to it after the first week.
Oil was checked occasionally, total use over the stretch under ½ ltr., the new chain lubed regularly.
The tankbag seemed to be off a different bike (or some parts were missing, whatever), the seat-side flap was only tucked in between "tank” and seat, one of our first cable-tie fixes, as the bag started sliding off the bike after the first 50km. :evil:

There were some electric/ electronic gremlins; the high beam seemed to switch itself on/ off intermittently, the fuse for the heated grips blew for no apparent reason… apart from that, things were fine. The easiest on fuel, 4l/100km is excellent, particularly considering the terrain we were in and the flogging it got.

Tim took a liking to the 1150RT, a bike we were ultimately stuck with….he showed once more that ANY bike, even a heavy touring barge, can be punted across just about anything.
He loved the big fairing too, as things got cold-to-icy. Selfish bastard :D :P

Not a bike any of us would buy, but pretty good all-round…good front-end and front brakes, just quite heavy on the oil…which seemed to be everywhere around the left cylinder.

Tim's 1150 R was very badly fuelled, a huge ‘hole” between 4000-5000rpm made it a dog in uphill-overtaking manoeuvres, a constant worry when the straights are extremely short and there is no spare room to speak off.
Again, fairly heavy on the oil, as was the 2004 GS12 that Karel had.

A good 1/2ltr/ 1000km :shock: seemed to be standard…which came as a surprise, as none of our bikes at home uses ANY oil between regular oil-changes.

And they weren’t ALL long-suffering hire-hacks…the 2 later GS12s were 2007 models with fewer than 20.000 on the clock.:huh

The old 1100RT….hmmm….with nearly 100.000km she’d been flogged to death and back… wouldn’t spin past 4000rpm, had “the shakes” badly, heavily scored brake-discs and about 25mm suspension travel left both ends. :shock: :?
Sculled oil like an AlcoholicsAnonymous-crew drains gin after the Tues night meeting…
Shot head-bearings together with the sagged suspenders made for an…ahem… interesting ride, especially on those roads we were about to encounter.
Braking hard into sharp downhill-hairpins on some rough road-surface was an adventure all of it’s own…pucker-country fair and square.

The 2 RT’s also kept loosing parts constantly...if it wasn’t some body-panel or mirror; it was a complete (and still functioning, dangling by the cabling) rear light/ indicator unit.


Back to the 3 GS12s we finished up with after day10 of the ride…
Amongst the crew, we all own “big chookies” of some sort. A CapoNord, a DR650 and 3 V-Strom 1000s…riding a GS12 isn’t entirely strange then.



Let’s come to the good points first…as there are not too many. :shock: :shock:

Everyone LOVED the low grunt of the 12…there are GOBS of torque down low…between 1500-4000rpm.
Sensational… particularly in the really tight, slow stuff.
Just chug it through, no burning out clutches and hop/skip/jump here.
Front brakes are pretty good, too….not exceptional, but absolutely adequate.

What is exceptional though, is the front end!!

The Tele-Lever is a gem, the ability to brake laaaate and deeeep and still jam the bike UNDER BRAKES into a TIGHT hairpin, is incredible. The thing just stays down where it is, doesn’t want to stand up, no wobbles, no jerks, just whack it in and keep squeezing the front anchors…with feel…but firmly.
Another good thing is that the footpegs scratch first….rather than the “pivoting” experience of the centre-stand digging-in! :lol3

One word: MAGIC !!


Now to the rest of it….and that was the consensus, not just a personal opinion !
We later met some other GS12 punters, who all had at least some of the same quibbles with the bike.

On a walk-around, one thing sticks out…due to the lightweight tube frame being all one piece (even the rear footpeg-brackets are part-of-the-frame), any half-arsed tumble down the road will result in damage to the major component of the bike...the frame.
Even a bit of a bumpy slide-on its side will make this a write-off. No bolt-on subframes here, it’s all one part.

Hop on and get going….as sweet as what the engine is below 4000rpm, as rough and vibey and asthmatic does it get beyond that, what a bloody shame. :cry: :cry:
And it’s not just a little…it’s mirror-shaking bad. :bang:
Mirrors shouldn’t be the $10 kind on a bike like this, either… having 8 sets of headlights in my mirrors (with 4 bikes following) made me know, that everyone was there….and that was riding the “sweet” rpm- range.
With more traffic at the rear, the mirrors turned into a rock-concert- lightshow.

Ergonomics:
Somehow a major cock-up by BMW here :doh: ….the front perch is tilted forward, causing back-trouble even to those, who’ve NEVER had a problem before. Some hard braking into bends…and the family-jewels are as flat as pancakes. :evil:

There’s a high and low setting for the seat, we finished up with the front mechanism sitting ON TOP of the high setting (in effect, the seat was loose in the front)….with the rear clicked into it’s lowest possible setting,…even then it was a make-do. :roll:

Footpegs are too high (for road-riding, anyway) and force a fairly sharp knee-angle…for that kind of bike at least.

Meeting another owner in Herfied (our host at Gasthof Winkler/ Austria), who’s got a late 2005model GS12, we spent an afternoon at his uncles upholstery business in Hermagor, re-shaping Herfried’s seat to what it should’ve been ex-factory.

Compared to the lowly V-Stroms headlight, the “candles” of the GS are a bloody disgrace.
As is the rear-brake…there’s either NOTHING at all…or it’s a lockup.
One word: DANGEROUS!! The margin between nothing and lockup is as wide as a bee’s dick…
Got me into a few tight spots, which only the great front-end got me out of.

The switchgear:
It’s one of the first things I’d junk, those fuggen stupid indicator/cancel switches are impossible to work properly, particularly with thicker gloves, where one always hits another switch for something else in that overloaded switch-cluster.

Short, rough hits to the front-suspension make things feel pretty harsh…. as sweet as what things are on smooth roads…. when things get sharp, short and rough, the front-end likes to stutter and the wheel ends up bouncing around somewhat, to the extend of slightly “jumping out of track”.
Sure, the Telelever saves the day… but even after nearly 4 weeks it sometimes came as a surprise and there seemed to be no cure for it.

Shaftdrive “lag” and “snatch”… to cut it short, gimme a chain-drive any day !!:evil :evil
Things are sloppy and clunky, the side-stepping of the rear end when downshifting hard into tight bends is disconcerting and if coupled with compression lockups and/or rear-brake induced slides….nawww… it 's seriously WRONG !!

Luggage:
All our GS12’s had BMW panniers and BMW tankbags. All Topboxes were Givis.
The most practical and easiest to use items were the …..Givi Topboxes.

The OEM panniers have a (replaceable??…they'd better be!!!) aluminium-wrapped face-panel. One tiny scratch by a jacket-zipper….and it’ll be there forever.
No surprise, that all panniers (incl. those on the GS650) looked like they’d been through WW3 already….even on those 2 “new” 2007 models.
The fastening is fiddly-to-frustrating, the 5 locks/ latch-mechanisms to be worked each time are prone to failure….the more shit, the more can go wrong, KISS rules !!!

The OEM-tankbags are useless…when unzipping the rear to expose the filler-cap for fuelling, the whole bag has to be flipped upwards/forwards….which releases the front hook of the bag automatically…and the whole thing’s in the dirt a second later.

Zipping up the rear end of the bag back onto the “tongue” of material takes ideally 3-4 hands to hold/ tighten/stretch things to make the zip go back into place.

Am I done yet?? :evil: :evil:
Not really:evil :evil … there’s a shitload of other, smaller items one could whinge about, above are only the major points.

The conclusion then comes as no surprise…all 4 of us have turned our backs to any possible GS12 ownership in the future, there are too many alternatives on the market, which, when seen as a package, are different but just as good, if not a better compromise than the GS12.

And for a LOT less money !!

Spending $5000 or more to fix the most annoying shortcomings of the GS would be a waste…spending half the amount on any of the competitors on the market would yield better results for far less input.

If there’d be a way to squeeze a Telelever front end into a Strom or Caponord, retain the slipper-clutch and chain-drive of those, add the BIG bottom-end-bang of the GS to the top-end of both the Capo or Strom…. keeping THEIR ergonomics, seats and switchgear, add better aftermarket (Givi/ HepcoBecker etc) luggage and a decent tankbag…
THEN we’re talking about a future-bike that'd make us prick our ears !!

Until then, we reckon the GS is nothing but a styling and design exercise for exactly that purpose…not for practicality, performance or user-friendliness.
My sympathies go out to anyone who believes the hype blindly and spends $20.000plus just to find out later what the GS should/ could've been...As TimTim put it aptly:
"If the GS comes at the same price of a DL-1000....I MIGHT, just might, re-consider...till then, they can shove it. I'll never spent 60% more on something that might be 5% better (considering that Telelever frontend )."


None of which distracted us the least from a ride-of-a-lifetime and a bucket- load of fun !!! 8) 8)

glitch
28-10-2007, 11:27 AM
So.......
'where's the write up?
c'mon... c'mon... you've been back long enough.
Europe didn't teach you any manners I see....
:
Do something about it.... :P :lol:


what's that? 6 weeks work to catch up on? yards to mow? bills to pay?
ooo pluleeeez... get with the program.

Fine....job's YOURS !!


And where are the other reprobates, still in a Milano lockup for visually molesting the local ladies and excessive drooling in cafe's? Except for Art of course, he'd be locked up for drooling on scooters :wink:

Visually molesting? pffft....
You've got no bloody idea :P :P :P
Rape and pillage, chased by customs of various countries, grand theft auto, 1001 traffic violations...and that's the start of the rap-sheet!



C'mon, you can't tease us and not post words n pics.
Rudi's doin' all the work for ya!
Oh yeah, welcome back ya bastids... i guess :upyrs:

Rudi's doin' just fine, aye? :wink: :lol:
Mate....gotta do a major software upgrade first (early next week, Steve's giving us a major hand on that, a HUUUUGE THANKS there !!!), then things will start to roll, promise :upyrs:

iffracem
28-10-2007, 01:25 PM
I don't mow my own yards mate.. so you got NOOOOO hope :lol:

I can't comment on the telelever, long term seat comfort etc, but you've confirmed the initial impressions I got from test riding a big beemer twin, not my cup of tea at all, I'd look at an SVthou, or trumpy tiger first.

Just like the mercedes off road trucks I worked on in the army, it all seems like technology for technologies sake... pity.

I agree KISS is the go, the less that can go wrong, the better :D

So, you looking at following Doit and leaving phpbb?

Looking forward to the rest of the (never ending) stoooory :chug:

glitch
28-10-2007, 01:32 PM
That's exactly it...tech for the sake of wanting to be different or something...shame, really, the bike's got some decent strong points.

Yep, following Steve, just bought a copy of vBulletin and hopefully, hopefully, we'll get it across tomorrow night.
Might not look all that crashhot for the start, but that can be done after.
As long as it's stable...

Never ending story??? You haven't seen the start of it yet !!
Don't bloody whinge, when your modem finishes up a smoking plastic turd on yer desk :D :D





Just like the mercedes off road trucks I worked on in the army, it all seems like technology for technologies sake... pity.

So, you looking at following Doit and leaving phpbb?

Looking forward to the rest of the (never ending) stoooory :chug:

glitch
28-10-2007, 01:37 PM
Long overseas flights are usually a pain in the arse….no exception here.
:roll:

The Dubai stopover was already too long at 2 hrs; due to the huge expansion program there are major works going on, the current terminal is way too small for the amount of travellers, it’s a slowly moving sea-of-heads moving in all directions….a place where Asia, Africa and Europe meet.
Jam-packed with folks from everywhere….and stifling hot. :shock: :shock:

Milano’s Malpensa Airport on the other hand is a big and breezy affair, well signed too, and it was easy to find the Malpensa Express, the train into the heart of Milano.

Not looking all that fresh :) , it’s a muggy, smog-filled mid-20s, too.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0002.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0003.jpg

Then the first stumbling tries in Italian to get some tickets for the local Metro out to the north-western area of Milano, the place of our first 2 nights of the trip…. at the Milano Youth Hostel (the only “hole” I could find that offered beds at reasonable rates this time of year in Milano, the city hosts lots of fairs around Sept/ Oct) with BiancoBlu, the bike-hire mob, not far away.

Asking around, we got a recommendation for some restaurant and walking down the leafy streets gives us a first taste of the place…. scooters EVERYWHERE, the pace frantic, every tiny gap an “opening” to stick the nose in front…NO MERCY, not a ¼ inch given !!

The eatery turns out to be a small sidewalk marque ringed by a few bushes, the beer is cold, comes at a decent size (1/2 ltr.), the food isn’t too shabby, either.
The long flight and travel fall away quickly…. we’re soaking it up!!

A couple of hours later, 5 half-dead-on-their-feet-Aussies shuffle back to their beds…what a start, we LOVE it already !!


WOT??? Morning already ? Oh shiiiite…. :cry: :? :shock:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0004.jpg

What’s up?

How about a day in Milano?
Go past BiancoBlu along the way, so we know where to drag our suitcases to the following morning when we pick up the bikes…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0005.jpg

Take the bus? Or this one… :muahaha:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0006.jpg

Let’s snoop around, check out the city, the streetmarkets, the city-park, the Milano Castle, the Cathedral and whatever else, grab a cuppa somewhere (or a ½ ltr. icecold Heiniken from a street-kiosk as it turned out)…let’s see where we’ll drift…snapshotting whatever catches the eye…

Look at those bike-shop opening hours, huh?

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0007.jpg

She just might make that tram (with some help from above) :lol:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0008.jpg

EVERYWHERE !! :shock: :shock:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0009.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0010.jpg

Talking about TIGHT !! :wink:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0011.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0012.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0013.jpg

One day, when I grow up…. I wanna be a ….

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0014.jpg

Let’s just walk down that way, eh?

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0015.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0016.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0017.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0018.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0019.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0020.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0021.jpg

Whowha…there it is, let’s have a look… :shock:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0022.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0023.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0024.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0025.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0026.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0027.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0028.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0029.jpg

How about that road over there?….

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0034.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0035.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0036.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0037.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0038.jpg

The markets… how about that LOG of cheese? :shock: :shock:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0039.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0040.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0041.jpg

iffracem
28-10-2007, 03:36 PM
:thumbs:


Good to see graffiti looks the same the world over.....

& I notice tassie tim got his mug in an awful lot of pics :lol:

glitch
28-10-2007, 03:48 PM
:thumbs:
Good to see graffiti looks the same the world over.....
& I notice tassie tim got his mug in an awful lot of pics :lol:

Not much graffiti around Milano though...some of the outer subs, the more industrial areas, but innercity it's pretty rare. A welcome change...
TT's got just one of those mugs...hard NOT to have it in a shot :P :P :P

motorradrudi
28-10-2007, 04:33 PM
Hallo Pete,

thanks for the beginning!

http://www.alpenbiker.eu/images/smilies/smilietop.GIF

(Couldn't wait for the rest)

Best greatings from the Alps
Rudi

glitch
29-10-2007, 09:31 AM
Around another corner…a Google satellite map of Milano and surrounds laminated into the floor of a huge, old shopping arcade

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0042.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0043.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0044.jpg

Grind the heel in the area of the bull’s balls….for good luck ! :shock: :shock:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0045.jpg



More impressions…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0047.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0048.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0049.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0050.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0051.jpg

Lunch break? Let’s have some of that…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0046.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0052.jpg

Milano being one of the leading fashion-cities of the word shows everywhere.
No tracky-daks, tattoos and cap-backwards here…THIS is CLASS! 8) 8)
It’s not just the clothes, shoes, haircuts and accessories…. it’s just everywhere and everything.
Body-language, THE WALK, the talk….the lot !!!
Let’s keep strolling around…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0053.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0054.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0055.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0056.jpg

Ahhhh,….the WOMEN !! :shock: :wink: :lol:
Cute, aye??

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0057.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0058.jpg

Our 2 bachelors fell in love instantly :lol: , vying for “backs to the wall” seats at every opportunity, just to make sure they had a clean field of vision (and clear space on the floor for the dribblings :P :P )

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0059.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0060.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0062.jpg

Another “Tasty” … :D

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0063.jpg

glitch
30-10-2007, 01:14 PM
More random impressions…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0065.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0067.jpg

Who couldn’t forgive our 2 “boyz” for just standing around, gazing ?
:glu:glu

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0068.jpg

Watching, too….

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0069.jpg

Trying to make a successful purchase at the tabacchieri :so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0070.jpg

The afternoon wore on…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0071.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0073.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0074.jpg

A car repair shop at street level of an apartment block….no cars they're working on?
Under the ceiling!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0075.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0076.jpg

On the way to our “resting place” for the afternoon, a Kiosk at the side of a roundabout with 6 roads feeding into it…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0077.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0078.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0079.jpg

The great equalizer.....The Scooter !!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0080.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0081.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0083.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0084.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0085.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0086.jpg

glitch
30-10-2007, 02:11 PM
Even a Diesel Cab flies with a #46 on the back !! :clap:
The yellow #46 is EVERYWHERE, even saw it flashing by stuck to the side of a stroller…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0088.jpg

There she’s AGAIN !! :glu

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0089.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0092.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0090.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0095.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0093.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0094.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0096.jpg

Just around the corner now ....

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0099.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0098.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0100.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0097.jpg

An “open” servo…just some free-standing bowsers backing onto a tram-stop, 2 older guys running from pump to pump filling up, the cash stowed in their leather pouches…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0101.jpg

We finally get to the small Kiosk selling ice-cold (rare around here, they usually like their beer cool, but NOT chilled) Heineken, right at the side of one of the main feeders of 6 roads into a roundabout…the heat, the walk, the impressions….and then the beer stopped further snap-shooting, but amongst our small group, fistfuls of Euro-Cents were won and lost betting on the hole-shotters of the scooter-drags.
:rofl:
Would it be the granny with the bunch of celery in the front basket of the Honda Helix…or the guy on the mobile phone casually and nonchalantly revving the crap out of the 400 Burgman??
Was he peeking right/left to check out the opposition for the flat-out chase for pole-position at the next set of light 50m down the road??
Or the holeshot on exiting between the Minivan and light pole at the next junction?

Perhaps they would all be cut off by the guy on the pushie, still pedalling frantically to clear the roundabout, trying to avoid the ruts of the tram-tracks before the next green light created another 50-scoots-at-once scare for him?
50 cents says the mum pushing the stroller will be bowled over by the middle-aged Lady-in-Green on the 3-wheeler Piaggio…

Cheers went up, arms waving, fists punching the air every 30 seconds when one of us got it right and the rest started scouring the next crop of scooters trying to squeeze into pole-position for the next change of lights…

It’s something, none of us will ever forget… what a bloody hoot !!
Oh maaaan, Australia’s is thaaaaat far behind, it brings tears to your eyes!!!

Milano??? SHITHOT !!!!!!



[B]Next: Day 1 on the road

The BiancoBlu hire-bike fiasco
Alarm on the AutoStrada
An angel called Anna
Vino, Pasta...and at peace with the world

...and more....

motorradrudi
30-10-2007, 06:13 PM
Hi Pete,

89 pics for one day - :glu:glu:glu

How many will bring the next 35 days?

(Can't wait for the rest) http://www.alpenbiker.eu/images/smilies/sagnix1.gifhttp://www.alpenbiker.eu/images/smilies/sagnix1.gifhttp://www.alpenbiker.eu/images/smilies/sagnix1.gif

Beste Greatings
Rudi

glitch
30-10-2007, 06:33 PM
Hi Pete,
89 pics for one day
How many will bring the next 35 days?
(Can't wait for the rest)
Rudi

There's a bucketload more for that day alone...but impressions were somewhat overwhelming....and going by our batchelors, it's non-represantative anyway, not enough pics of all the chicks :whistle::whistle:

Looking through some of the folders...it'll definitely go beyond the 1000pics for the complete story :eek::eek:
So.....sort something out for me in the forum once I start to re-write the text in German and start posting at Alpenbiker :bs:bs

glitch
30-10-2007, 07:07 PM
Bouncing around at 5.30am….Tim’s already out the front door for a ciggie…
Today’s THE DAY !!

Rocking up at BiancoBlu at 9, there are 5 bikes lined up in the yard, complete with luggage and tankbags…
BUT only one GS12 and one 650GS, HUHHH?? :eek:
Francesca rolls up and rubs the hiring contracts under our noses….NO WAY !!
The R1150R, the 1150RT and the old 1100RT were definitely NOT on the menu !!!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0103.jpg

Let’s get Renato in…which proves a 2hr. affair, the sun pelts down and we’re sitting there in the shade of the garage, suitcases still unpacked, waiting for El Maestro to explain where the missing 3 Gs’s are…:flame:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0102.jpg

I’ll spare the details.... but eventually he rocks up, things get fairly ugly and frustrating (not just about the wrong bikes, but other things as well). In the end things get sorted, of course he’s got us over a barrel when it comes to the 3 non-GS’s…we’ll have to run with what’s in the yard for the start, bummer !
And that’s what we emailed back and forth about for the last 2.5 years?

BiancoBlu?? NEVER AGAIN !!! :upyrs:

The hope of closing the first day-on-the-road with the Col de Tende (juuuuust across the French border 30km from our stay for the night) had vanished into thin air, dammit !!

(we managed to get two more 2 GS’s ten days later, when we met up with Renato in Martigny/ Switzerland….the third GS never materialized, there weren’t even any replies at all to calls and SMS’s sent over a period of 4 days…before we gave up).

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0104.jpg

This wasn’t a good start :(….and some of the bikes had blinking fuel-lights, so they weren’t even fuelled up. Thankfully there was a servo close by….
It’s early afternoon and we’re finally going, YEEHA !!! FINALLY !!!!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0105.jpg

It’s hot, the smog sits like a blanket over the city, we’re soaked with sweat, the packing of the panniers had happened in a rush to get out of there….onto the Autostrada for our run towards Torino, then south towards Cuneo and the mountains near the French border.

Easy enough to find our way onto the Strada, the traffic is dense…after a couple of k’s we’re at the tollbooths.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0106.jpg

The 2 lanes stretch into a 10-lane football-field, signs by the hundreds, which lane is for bikes, which one?? With all the traffic around it’s a stab in the dark, just stay away from those booths signed for trucks…
I pick one, the boomgate is open, the light is red….stop here?? I fiddle with the ticket-machine which turns the light to green, I’m through….wobble across the 4 or 6 lanes of traffic to the right sitting on my gloves, this will a little while till everyone gets through….
Turn around…and they’re all there!!! Huhhh???
“ Ticket? What ticket, the boom was open, thought you had a ticket for all of us…???”
Arggghhhh SHIT !!! The boom was broken !!! Anyone checked the green/red lights?? :doh:

With the BiancoBlu frustration of the morning still in the system, it’s better to just keep going and sort out the mess at the other end, when we have to get off the Strada and pay up…

Roadworks after roadworks, speedlimits that nobody seems to give a shit about…Torino isn’t that far. I dread the looming toll exit before the ring-road around the industrial city and another piece of the toll-Strada, so we cut north-west a little to join another Autostrada that bypasses Torino, hopefully we’ll finish up with only one toll-exit at the end of the whole stretch, rather than sorting out the mess, just to enter another one 10 mins later.

It works and we sail around Torino, tacking south…the smog is still yellowish-brown, it’s still hot and we’re way behind in time.

There’s the sign to Cuneo…we roll onto a smaller, 4-lane apron, pick a booth and let the fun begin...:thun
“Mama Mia!!!” The wall of Italian is SOLID, not a word of English anywhere, the poor, old bastard burries his head in his arms…we ruined his day ! !

After 5 mins he decides to close his booth to all other traffic to sort us out and we’re lucky: no penalties, no max. charges…just the 6Euro50 or something that apply for the stretch we’ve taken…
The heart attack isn’t far off, but he comes through, arms and legs flailing, shouting and muttering… everyone gets a ticket which then has to be handed back to get punched…. we’re DONE.
:clap:

Blood vessels slowly recede below skin-level again as we’re rolling south, an endless stream of smaller towns, the traffic very slowly getting thinner. Farmland, paddocks, vineyards, this is looking better.

A couple of stops to check with some locals, more sign language, heads shaking, pointing…the Google-map I’d printed out helps to find our booked accommodation, one of the local Agroturismo BnB’s, a loose collection of private rooms for rent in private homes.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0107.jpg

Just above the valley and the worst of the smog, the gate opens to a cosy place set amongst a few acres of gardens and surrounding vineyards…Anna has remembered my booking and was expecting us.:chug:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0108.jpg

An angel called Anna !!!!

glitch
30-10-2007, 07:34 PM
Within minutes we’re off the bikes as she opens house and heart for us…this is like coming HOME !!! :cdle
She offers tea in the garden…not really what we really feel like, but hell….anything will do right now, we’re stuffed!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0112.jpg

Not even there for an hour and all frustration and aggro of the morning have worn off, the Strada-Ticket story is history, the afternoon cools off.

There are bickies and nibblies to go with the tea, there’s laughter and grins, waving hands and pointing fingers, the table covered in maps and Anna, running back and forth to show us photos or bring more tea in between being “mama” to everyone….she’s GREAT !!
Life’s GREAT !! :chug:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0114.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0115.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0116.jpg

We're still laughing, the boots long kicked-off, our Italian improving by the minute, when she comes back, having arranged a booking at her nephew’s restaurant down at the main road, and what a treat THAT turned out to be... Fan-bloody-tastic !

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0118.jpg

We walk down the hill on tiny single-laners snaking through the vineyards…. just to shuffle back up a couple of hours later… the local vino is DYNAMITE! :slobb


http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0109.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0110.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0111.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0113.jpg

The whole 2. level of the place is ours….2 cute, generous bedrooms, a tiled-to-the-ceilings bathroom and a huge rumpus room to spread our gear in…with Anna to top it off, one could stay here for a month…. or three.

A day of frantic Italian traffic, speed limits that are roadside decoration, smoggy flatlands stretching forever and mainly straight roads.

Little did we know that within a few days we’d be cherishing even the shortest stretch of straight….just to take a breather, a tiny break and relaxation, re-grouping the mind… before it was into it again: bends, hairpins from nowhere, tiny single-laners leading into the sky without armcos or any other road-markings at all, bends, bends and more bends.

I didn’t fare any better than the others and I’m certainly well known for being a bends-hound….but this was a whole new ballgame!!! :glu

Now….wait for the breakfast Anna came up with….and we needed it, looking at the day that was to follow!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/Tor0117.jpg

iffracem
30-10-2007, 10:05 PM
but.. I rode back from philip island... I did.. really...



Aahhh forget it.............................................:so

iffracem
30-10-2007, 10:12 PM
Oh my gawd... Art is showing Anna his map o tassie

You idiot Tim.. you're supposed to get THEM to show YOU the map O tassie :bs

glitch
31-10-2007, 11:35 AM
but.. I rode back from philip island... I did.. really...



Where's the story then :wink::wink::D

glitch
31-10-2007, 11:37 AM
You idiot Tim.. you're supposed to get THEM to show YOU the map O tassie :bs

Naw...he's a smart cookie.
Just getting across what he's after...and no easier way to show it :rofl:

gunner
01-11-2007, 07:19 PM
Hi Pete
It just getting better.Keep on writing.:clap::clap:
I can't wait to read more and see more Picture.
What a Trip.
Guenther

glitch
01-11-2007, 07:41 PM
Hi Pete
It just getting better.Keep on writing.:clap::clap:
I can't wait to read more and see more Picture.
What a Trip.
Guenther

Yeah mate...what a trip!!
Knew you'd like the story and pics :)

Ahh, by the way...since we're onto the new software, threads can now be "rated" (forum-members only). Just scroll to the top, and just below the "page-count" is a button called "rate thread".

Michael J
01-11-2007, 11:34 PM
A 2004 GS12 with 70something thousand K’s on the clock

5,000 of which were mine :D (4,500 of those with a couple of broken ribs - crashed it just outside Bertchesgaden in 2006 :( )

Nice guy - Renato. A small operation, but will definitely go the extra mile (or 1.6 kilometers) for you.

Wish I could do 6 weeks at a shot - 2 - 2.5 is the best that I've been able to do. Check out some of my pics at www.fratellibrothers.com/travel (http://www.fratellibrothers.com/travel) for some "Oooh, I remember that" moments. In the meantime, I'll be looking for more of yours.

Cheers

doit
02-11-2007, 05:34 AM
More great stuff there Pete, but must say I love the shot of Tim with the B&S t-shirt on.

glitch
02-11-2007, 07:15 AM
More great stuff there Pete, but must say I love the shot of Tim with the B&S t-shirt on.

Mate...by the time the shot was taken he would've worn a pink tutu for dinner at the Ritz without blinking :rofl:
That beer was sensational !!!

glitch
02-11-2007, 07:21 AM
Hi everyone

Talking with Marty last night and looking at how the story is coming along, I've decided to ditch the idea of posting random days, it just seems too "broken-up". It cuts the flow of how things went along, there's no continuity.

I'll take down day17 and keep it around for when the yarns have progressed to that point....but "On the road...day2" is just about ready for posting and I'll keep going from there.

Thanks for the replies, nice to see some involvement and comments....and please keep it up.

glitch
02-11-2007, 07:27 AM
5,000 of which were mine :D (4,500 of those with a couple of broken ribs - crashed it just outside Bertchesgaden in 2006 :( )

Nice guy - Renato. A small operation, but will definitely go the extra mile (or 1.6 kilometers) for you.

Wish I could do 6 weeks at a shot - 2 - 2.5 is the best that I've been able to do. Check out some of my pics at www.fratellibrothers.com/travel (http://www.fratellibrothers.com/travel) for some "Oooh, I remember that" moments. In the meantime, I'll be looking for more of yours.

Cheers

G'day mate :D
Welcome to AT, great to see that the thread had stirred some interest from outside the forum and made you join up :so
What a surprise !!
I don't know where (VStrom2? ADVrider??), but I can remember tripping over your name and read your story about a year ago, thinking: Boy, what a toughie and hopefully nothing like that will happen to any of us.

Our experiences with BiancoBlu weren't all that positive and I'd hate to think how things would've gone if we'd needed some help from Renato in case of a major breakdown/ crash....he wouldn't reply to emails/ calls (to 3 different numbers) for days...

glitch
02-11-2007, 07:38 AM
Finding Anna had been a stroke of pure luck…:so

The referral site on the net had been cluttered and was found by chance…one of those windows one tends to click shut before they’re even completely loaded.

A great night’s sleep and the morning is comfortably cool, but we’re still in the lowlands and the smog seems to be a constant. Sunrise…??

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0201.jpg

And Anna just kept it coming…this isn’t breakfast, it’s a feast !

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0202.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0203.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0204.jpg

And our “Donna Pilota” wouldn't be allowed to leave without a little something: :D

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0205.jpg

Then she comes up with bottles of water “you’ll need it, it’ll get warm” for everyone. :eek:
Things were getting just about too much, the morning was wearing on, but nobody wanted to leave, really….and the goodbyes were getting harder and harder.
Profuse “Thank you’s!!” is all we can come up with….and a little souvenir- Koala clasping a boomerang…it’s little enough, anyway.
Now Anna's in tears, too...

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0206.jpg

One final look…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0207.jpg

…and it was off to Busco, Dronero and into the steep Valle di Maira…. We’re finally at the start of the roads we’d dreamed about!!
:chug::chug:

The Maira Valley is all that it’s supposed to be….and MORE. :drool:
It’s rugged, stark…romantic and somewhat forgotten….the road a single-laner snaking it’s way around the rocky outcrops of the valley floor with a roaring river next to it.
A different world…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0208.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0209.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0210.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0211.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0212.jpg

Things get even tighter and more scenic on a little side-road up to Canosio and Stroppo on the other side of the main valley.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0214.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0215.jpg

As the turnoff wasn’t quite clear, a local came for help….and the day turned from here.
The Col Agnel at the border to France, 70km ahead, was closed on the French side due to a rockslide, our way blocked from Sampeyre to Chateau Queyras, Guillestre and the next pass on the wish list, the Col de Var.
He confirmed things with a call to the local Roads Department!!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0216.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0218.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0217.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0219.jpg

But…but !!! There is another way, something that even the Michelin maps didn’t show clearly :eek:…but let’s go up to the Col de Sampeyre and the historical town of Elva first (what the hell isn’t historical around here???).

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0220.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0221.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0222.jpg

glitch
02-11-2007, 07:41 AM
The hamlet of Cucchiales caught our eye…. what a place, what a location !!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0223.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0224.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0225.jpg

Let’s stroll around a little, this is a gem...

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0226.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0227.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0228.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0229.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0230.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0231.jpg

Then up the Colle di Sampeyre

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0232.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0233.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0234.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0235.jpg

And back to Elva, a fascinating little town…or rather, hamlet

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0236.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0237.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0239.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0240.jpg

Some hot chocolates at the only open place in town?
It’s typical Italian hot chocolate…more like a liquid triple-choc mud cake :drool:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0242.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0241.jpg

Another quick look around Elva

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0243.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0244.jpg

New and old...I don't know, but that Sat-dish up there doesn't fir the rest of it!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0245.jpg

The local version of roof-tiles...

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0246.jpg

Time to cut across the main valley and up the other side onto the Ligurian Ridge Road, the Col de Esischie and Col de Morti which we expect to be partially gravel, and also didn’t have proper maps for….ahhh well, we could still always make it back to Anna if needed, eh? :cool::cool:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0247.jpg

What a STUMPER of a road !!! talking about tight, sheesh :glu

glitch
02-11-2007, 07:46 AM
Ask one of the locals…ahem… another tourist who was just as stumped about the right track…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0248.jpg

What the hell, it’s a GREAT road, let’s boogie! :tu

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0249.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0251.jpg

Bit mucky up here…where are the mountains?

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0250.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0252.jpg

A break in the fog, time for some delicious single-lane carving across the top.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0253.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0254.jpg

Col de Morti

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0255.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0257.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0258.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0259.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0260.jpg

Those 2 couldn’t believe their eyes when they saw a pack of touring-barges show up

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0261.jpg

The descent is just as good as the climb…down the Valle di Arma

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0262.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0263.jpg

…and doglegging it up the Stura Valley to Vinadio, the day drawing to an end, time to find accommodation… and fuel for tomorrow.

Over A$2.30/ liter…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0265.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0264.jpg

The old barracks in Vanadio…1800something.
Yesterday, by local standards.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0266.jpg

….what a pisser, a garden gnome-sized roundabout …:bs

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0267.jpg

The small hotel opposite the servo’s got some rooms, with tiny balconies, too...it's only day 2, but those boots will have to stay DEFINITELY outside through the nights

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0268.jpg

…and the restaurant down the road comes up with some decent, but average tucker….who cares, the beer is cold, the vino potent and the beds are comfy.


What a day for the first one in the mountains…BLOODY RIPPA, MAAAATE !!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0270.jpg

FondaHonda
02-11-2007, 09:25 AM
Welcome back Pete, Goodie and the Vino gang!

Its taken me a while to catch up on the news and I've just started reading your report.

Excellent photos and descriptions so far...I am hanging out for the next installment...

Well done with the story so far...keep up the great work! I can see I am going to be quite distracted over the next few weeks as the adventure unfolds...

glitch
02-11-2007, 01:08 PM
Welcome back Pete, Goodie and the Vino gang!

Its taken me a while to catch up on the news and I've just started reading your report.

Excellent photos and descriptions so far...I am hanging out for the next installment...

Well done with the story so far...keep up the great work! I can see I am going to be quite distracted over the next few weeks as the adventure unfolds...

Hi mate...
just this morning some maps fell off the shelf, amongst it a biz cards from a hotel in Zernez. Thought of you right away...
And there's some great stuff coming lateron from around that area, truly one of the highlights of the whole trip!!
Carved ourselves silly, starting with the Fluela across to Davos, the Albula Pass right after back in the Engadin Valley, then up the Julier towards Chur, cut across to the Via Mala Gorge and then the cracker of the day, the Splugen down to Chiavenna in Italy...what a screamer of a road!!:glu:glu

...finishing off with a tootle up the Bergell Valley and the little gem of Soglio, up the Maloja Pass and along the lakes of the Upper Engadin/ St. Moritz back to Zernez. Was just about dark by the time we got back....a lousy 250km or so.... and on the bike all day.
CRACKA !! :chug::chug:

Stay tuned...Day3 is in the making :drool:

motorradrudi
02-11-2007, 08:43 PM
Hello Pete,

still fantastic! :glu:glu:glu

What a report, what fantastic pics ... and what a lot will come furthermore?!

:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::c lap::clap:

Best greatings from good old Germany!
Rudi

glitch
02-11-2007, 08:57 PM
Hello Pete,

still fantastic! :glu:glu:glu

What a report, what fantastic pics ... and what a lot will come furthermore?!

:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::c lap::clap:

Best greatings from good old Germany!
Rudi

Rudi
just seen you're online, give me 5 minutes to post up the first lot of day 3, still uploading pics at the moment.....
you'll LOVE this one !! :eek::eek:

glitch
02-11-2007, 09:02 PM
Grinning faces around the brecky-table…the sun was peaking through, dry roads, what more does one need? :dance:

Everyone had tucked away some of the previous day, but heads were still reeling, the memory fresh, yesterdays input massive…riding on the other side of the road, roundabouts the “wrong way”, the culture shock as a whole…
Then the roads, the scenery, and the language…the last few days had been testing at times, but also seemed like a mirage.

Anna, the whole Colle di Morti/ Sampeyre/ Elva thing yesterday…the local who’d been so helpful to check the road conditions ahead and put us onto the Ligurian Ridge Road….yesterday was the duck’s guts!!……and what would today bring? :jump:


Maps covering the coffee-table, times, distances and “not-to-be-missed”- locations are tossed back and forth…we decide to skip ahead of the plans in order to get a full day later on to cover those places we’d miss.

Just out of Vinadio, some morning fog is clinging to the slopes and the turn-off up the Col de la Lombarde, across to Isola 2000. This one wasn’t on our ‘wish-list" but any pack of twisties around here will fit the bill just perfectly. :chug:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0301.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0302.jpg

HIT THE BLOODY JACKPOT….AGAIN !!!:so:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0303.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0304.jpg

We’re stumped, certainly didn’t expect THAT !! :glu

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0305.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0306.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0307.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0308.jpg

Turn around…there’s France !

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0309.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0310.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0311.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0312.jpg
Couldn’t miss the opportunity, eh?

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0313.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0314.jpg

The French side looks just as inviting :clap:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0315.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0316.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0317.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0318.jpg

Down into the blinding sunshine and breathtaking scenery… and the Val de Tinee with it’s ruins, castles and chateaus…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0319.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0320.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0321.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0322.jpg

There’s no resistance, we just let ourselves fall into the spell of everything around us.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0323.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0324.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0325.jpg

The pace is getting slower and slower, heads are reeling… no time to put any of it away, every corner brings more, more and yet more…
Time for a break before we find ourselves just standing at the side of the road… gazing…

glitch
02-11-2007, 09:07 PM
A short break in St. Etienne de Tinee…before it’s up one of the “Classics”, the highest (sealed) Pass of the Alps…. the Col de la Bonette.:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0326.jpg

Up “the Bonette”…bends till ya drop, hairpins galore! :eek:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0327.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0328.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0329.jpg

Take your time…:cool::cool:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0330.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0331.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0332.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0333.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0334.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0335.jpg

The whole top at 2800m is an eerie pile of dark rubble and shale-rock…fascinating !!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0336.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0337.jpg

Dropping into Jausiers, things are getting pretty warm again, the difference in temps is quite drastic. We need some drinks and TT scouts for some small bottles of water….at nearly 5 bux each. All other shops are closed for lunch.
Yeah…that’s one thing we still have to get used to !
Shops closed between 12 and 3, or thereabouts…:wink:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0338.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0339.jpg

Through Barcelonette and tacking south, up the Col d’Allos…which is a bit unremarkable after the Lombarde and Bonette.
Sure, here in AUS we’d smack our lips at the sight of something like this…. but after yesterday and this morning it’s a different story.

It somehow just doesn’t fit into the landscape...:doh:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0340.jpg

The “Postie” of of the 4WD-brigade, the Fiat Panda. They’re EVERYWHERE !
:)

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0341.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0342.jpg

We go as far south as Colmars… a cute little town sprouting an extraordinary amount of ruins, castles and an ancient convent.:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0343.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0344.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0345.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0346.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0347.jpg

glitch
02-11-2007, 09:21 PM
Again the maps come out, the afternoon is wearing on…it’d be nice to just stay here, stretch out, have a Pernod with the locals…bask in the sun.


But there’s a tiny road on the map across to St. Martin d’Entraunes…the Col de Champs.
“ Hey, it’s only 25k’s mate…”
“ Yeaaaaah, we’ve seen how that usually pans out around here…”
“C’mon….25k’s !! An hour tops!!……with photostops….AND….it’ll set us up neatly for tomorrow”.
That clinched it!
Let’s go then…I’d seen the turn-off in a sharp lefthander just before town, it was a narrow, local laneway…looked tempting, no doubt.

The mountains are already tinged golden by the late afternoon light, autumn colours , shadows growing, the tiny band of asphalt …it’s all a dream…come along!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0348.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0349.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0350.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0352.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0353.jpg

Not quite at the top yet, and things change…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0354.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0355.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0356.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0357.jpg

Hell….how much more of this is there?? :drool::drool:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0358.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0359.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0360.jpg

We’re stumped !! It’s the lowest of the passes today and the most, most….whatever…lost for words.:oops:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0361.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0362.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0363.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0364.jpg

As spectacular as the climb was…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0365.jpg

…the descent is just as glorious. :so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0366.jpg

Two and a half hours later, we roll through 2 great rock-portals and into Guillaumes…35k’s of pure bliss under our belts.

The servo’s still open….juuust :woot:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0367.jpg

“La Renaissance” Hotel around the corner’s got some rooms and we make ourselves at home.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0368.jpg

A walk through town, check the menus and first up,….a BIG coldie !! The local “1664” on tap is right on the money…:scull::scull:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0369.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0370.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0371.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0373.jpg

Bathroom “a La Renaissance” :so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0372.jpg

It’s been a big day…the duck’s guts?? BLOODY OATH !!:tu:tu
STUFFED !!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0374.jpg


Another OUTSTANDING day !! Could we do it again tomorrow?
PLEASE ???!!!! The other way around?? :lao

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0375.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0376.jpg

See you after the shower.... and setting the double-bed afloat….:bs:bs

iffracem
03-11-2007, 03:11 PM
Bastids.........


yer all bastids........

glitch
03-11-2007, 05:10 PM
Peaceful early-morning Guillaumes…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0401.jpg

…and it’s looking like another fine day... as usual, getting warm in the afternoon.
Should be just perfect for the run into and through the gorge-country to the south-west.

Despite the higher prices for food, accommodation and petrol we seem to be doing ok with our 100 Euro/ day “allowance”, but France at least is quite a bit more expensive that AUS.
We're slowly getting used to using the other side of the road.... as long as there’s traffic around, it’s fine. Pulling out of carparks and reststops still makes one think, though… :eek:

Language is a little problem--- after the 2 days in Italy the brain had started to absorb some bits, now it’s back to square one. The old school-French is coming to the fore, but confronted suddenly with a pile of road signs, things get screwed up pretty quickly.
Still…it’s enough to fill up the tank, getting some tucker and a bed for the night. :wink:

First a short warm-up loop towards Beuil and up to Valberg, then back via Peone to Guillaumes…. the sun’s out, let’s go!!
Not 50m out of town, and it’s right into the twisties, hairpins, tunnels and glorious blue skies :drool:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0402.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0403.jpg

Peone…not even 2k’s as the crow flies, nearly 9k’s on the road

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0404.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0405.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0409.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0407.jpg

Back through Guillaumes and out the other side, the Gorges de Daluis start right here…
Ohhhh maaaan :glu :glu

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0408.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0406.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0410.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0411.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0412.jpg

glitch
03-11-2007, 05:15 PM
One quick look at eachother…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0413.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0414.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0415.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0416.jpg

”Yup, we’ll run this back and forth until, until… we’ve had enough, let’s meet at the lower end in…an hour?”
Grins everywhere !! Bloody hoons... the lot of ‘em ! :wink::lol:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0417.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0418.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0419.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0420.jpg

glitch
03-11-2007, 05:17 PM
A bit further down the road, and still in the gorges, one of those sites of religious significance, which seem to be just about everywhere.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0421.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0422.jpg

A short tack east to Entreveaux, a medieval castle crowns the small town.
TT and Karel do a spot of shopping at the markets, no idea where we might finish up around lunchtime.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0423.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0424.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0425.jpg

Right next to the last vendors table at the markets, the D610 tacks south… a tiny, narrow road across the Col du Buis. Let’s follow Goodie for a little while...

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0426.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0427.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0428.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0429.jpg

Is this a perler or what ??? :drool::drool:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0430.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0431.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0432.jpg

And things got even better than that once we climbed across the ridge (followed the D610 for too long into a dead-end…pretty little place with a couple of big, old farmhouses, just the road finished right there).

glitch
03-11-2007, 05:21 PM
http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0433.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0434.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0435.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0436.jpg

…into the Val d’Esteron and St. Auban

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0437.jpg

And we aren’t done yet….a little further west, another tiny road drops steeply down to the Lac de Chaudanne, a dam near Castellane, breathtaking scenery and the water as green as on the photos...yeeeha !

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0438.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0439.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0440.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0441.jpg

Lunch in Castellane,a generous affair…. after all, get TT to grab some bits and he’ll come back with delicacies for a month. :bs

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0442.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0443.jpg

With the extended Gorges-de-Daluis-run in the morning, we’re now a little strapped for time if we want to check out the Big One: the Grand Canyon de Verdon to the south…a MUST SEE !! :clap:

Just hop on, hit the button and come along !!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0444.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0445.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0446.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0447.jpg

Pics say more than a 1000 words…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0448.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0449.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0450.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0451.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0452.jpg

glitch
03-11-2007, 05:33 PM
Along the Route de Crete

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0453.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0454.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0455.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0456.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0457.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0458.jpg

The sun’s burning down and we’re melting away in our gear.:kna:kna
The going is sloooow, there’s sooo much to see, even stopping every 100m means missing some spectacular views in between, the place is just unbelievable.:lao

A stop is badly needed and La Palud sur Verdon offers itself with cold drinks and a small supermarket for some dinner-shopping.
A call to Pascal at the Gite de Chasteuil brought paydirt, another address that I’d stumbled across on the net a long time ago.

8km short of Castellane to turn up the hill to Chasteuil and HOLA :eek::eek:, what’ve we got here? It’s STEEP…it’s full of super-tight hairpins…it’s hot and the trees are sparse….and there are only vague remnants of asphalt left. Shit, that’s tricky !!

I haven’t got the best of feelings and hope that everyone makes it up in one piece; we’re tired, hot and choked with the day’s impressions.
And TT’s got the wine bottles in the topcase, so he’s the one to be most worried about :bs
Welcome to Chasteuil !!! :hi
The place is tiny… only a few houses, lots of chestnut trees and a church!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0460.jpg

And where the hell could Pascal and his Auberge be?
I keep pedalling and clutching the heavy 11RT through the narrow lanes right up to the last building….and THAT’S where it is !! At the top of “town” :so :so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0464.jpg

The “dining room” is cool and shady, the 2 big window- cutouts open and airy, a terrace outside, a fridge full of ICECOLD beer (incl. my cherished Pelforth Biere Brune !!!), the rooms are straight from a doll-house catalogue…there’s home-made soap and jars of vegetables, bunches of dried flowers hanging off the ceilings and walls…a true “refuge” in the old French-Mediterranean style, an instant “feel-at-home”, snuggle style place…and then….THEN !!!….add the VIEWS !!!…and the rest of the settings.
On top of all that, Pascal’s fluent in English, having lived in the US for a while.
We’re speechless!! :wow::wow:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0461.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0462.jpg

glitch
03-11-2007, 05:35 PM
I don’t believe it !!! This is HEAVEN on earth !!
Just have a look around !!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0463.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0465.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0466.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0469.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0470.jpg

Aaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh :cool:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0467.jpg

Pascal…he can’t believe he’s stuck with the “Tornantis”.
What a character he turns out to be…another one of those who “made” the trip !!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0468.jpg

Needless to say that everyone just LOVES the place…just look at the faces !:lol:
It’s incredible….another DREAM –day, another “this has been the BEST one, if we’d have to go home now, it would’ve all been worth it” .

Grab a glass and join us for dinner then…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0471.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0472.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0473.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0474.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0475.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0476.jpg

The neighbours calling Pascal for the regular round of evening-boule

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0477.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0478.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0479.jpg














http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0480.jpg

The way, life was supposed to be…… Cheers !!

Hytram
03-11-2007, 10:18 PM
Un....freakenbelievable :eek::eek::eek::eek:

glitch
04-11-2007, 03:01 PM
Un....freakenbelievable :eek::eek::eek::eek:

And that's EXACTLY how WE felt... ALL day, EVERY day.
It just NEVER stops...input-overload is a real problem :doh:

goodie
04-11-2007, 03:25 PM
Sorry guys, for being very quiet at the mo - but I'm working very hard in the background - ahem, cough.....
BUT - I've got an excuse!!!
My head's still in the clouds (...that could be somewhere in the Dolomites)
My mouth is still in the Yoghurts, Quarks and Speck (...make that Switzerland)
My tastebuds still savour all the different wines and beers (...definitely Austria and Germany)
And I can still feel the warm rays of sun from southern France on my face "C'est la vie"
My body's back in Australia, my mind lags a bit behind
Well, that's my excuse anyway :bs

goodie
04-11-2007, 04:01 PM
I might just like to add a little to our stay at Anna's (Our first night's accommodation on the road). We stayed in Italy in a vineyard, private rooms, second storey. (We almost ALWAYS stayed in the second storey - Biker's Special???)
Anyway, while the others were still busy with the bikes, Anna showed me and Karel our rooms.
"This one is for the couple", she said in Italian, and when we came to the other room with 3 single beds neatly lined up next to each other, she said "and this one is for the piccolini" (meaning: little ones). Then she looked up at 6-foot tall Karel and burst out laughing, as she just realized what she'd said.
Needless to say that the name "piccolini" stuck for the rest of the trip. :rofl:

glitch
04-11-2007, 04:17 PM
Things had gone-on a little last night :wink::rolleyes:…the place, the location, it all had created a deep feeling of peace and contentment.

The perfect place for “putting the feet up”, sipping the Red all day…chew over the brimming bag of impressions and experiences of the last few days.

Then grab another bottle and fit those impressions into the rest of life...

Only one problem with it: we didn’t have the time…and… there was that 2.5km down the hill back to the main road. Those sharp, cruddy hairpins…all views of oncoming traffic blocked even along the short, open stretches…the broken-up and sunken piece in that righthander…ahhhhh, let’s have brecky first and enjoy e v e r y minute.

And Pascal dished up !! Nothing missing here!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0501.jpg

How’s that for a doorstop? :eek:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0502.jpg

Another sparkler of a morning….it’ll get as hot as yesterday, for sure.
Let’s drink-in the moment...this is precious.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0503.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0504.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0505.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0506.jpg

Today’s plans are a bit vague….just make it down to the Cote d’Azur, check out Nice and Monaco…then we’ll see from there.
The descent to the main road was slooow… but incident-free.

And east we went…scrambling for petrol at some stage (the 1150R wouldn’t make much more than 250km before the light came on)
First the tiny D102 from Castellane south to Le Bourguet, across to Logis-de-Pins, then the D2 to Greolieres and Coursegoules.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0507.jpg

With the late-ish start, we had to give the Col de Bleine- Roquesteron stretch a miss….bummer, would’ve loved that !

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0508.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0509.jpg

glitch
04-11-2007, 04:23 PM
Still…. some great scenery, brilliant roads and a shitload of twisties and quick sweepers are in the bag….NOICE !! :D:D

Down the Col du Vence direction Nice…a somewhat shabby-feeling kind of affair, the slopes gentle, burnt bare by the sun, sparsely populated by some dead trees and bushes.... the bustling coastal strip already in the distance and the brooding heat from there wafting up the slopes straight into our jackets…:kna:kna

Yohhhh, and here comes the coast. :eek:

Over the last few decades, all those individual places like Nice, Beaulieu, Monaco and Menton have fused into one continuous pile of apartment blocks, industry, spaghetti-roads and suburbs, hardly anything left of the old-style, picturesque Mediterranean beach-resorts…and the traffic is FURIOUS!!

Ancient buildings are topped with expressways above their roofs…the old, narrow lanes JAM-packed with cars, vans and scooters.

After getting bogged a couple of times in an effort to find the Esplanade we give up... following the main route east and finish up doing half a lap of the Monaco F1-circuit, through the tunnel and up past the posh hotel (whatever it’s name) on the hill… got a few photos at a viewpoint in Eze before another lot of 4 coaches pulls up….and absolutely melt away in our gear, despite the open zips and all. :kna:kna:kna

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0510.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0511.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0512.jpg


Then we find a TAB-style bar that has the Rugby World Cup at full blast on a couple of huge Plasmas…grab a drink and decide to “get the HELL outta Dodge” !!
Let go up north, out of this madhouse and let’s parallel the Italian border, perhaps even up to Tende at the border?

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0514.jpg

glitch
04-11-2007, 04:28 PM
We run north on the old D2566 out of Menton, across the Col de Castillion to Sospel
Check out this railway bridge !

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0515.jpg

Things go well…traffic thins out once we’re 20km off the coast, long sweepers mixed with tighter sections and the road is good.
Across the Col de Brouis, the ancient town of Tende isn’t far…
We made good time, too…there’s still enough of the afternoon to give the Col de Tende (ital: Colle di Tenda, as it straddles the border) a go ??

Why not !!…Goodie isn’t all that happy, we’re all hot and tired after the chaos along the coast, hours of stop/ go traffic and Mediterranean tempers around us…
Come on, lurve… :wink::wink:


Pack some dry-ice around your network-cables, here comes a SCREAMER !!

Still pretty good here, there’s broken-up old asphalt and some battle-weary embankments…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0516.jpg

The first few hairpins…looking back to the main road…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0517.jpg

The road turns to gravel, no probs…but the old R1100RT doesn’t like it.
The bombed-out old barge keeps insisting on going one way with me trying to force it the “right” way.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0518.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0519.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0520.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0521.jpg

But maaaate…those VIEWS !! :glu:glu

Here’s the target…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0522.jpg

…and we’re still on the climb.:eek:


Sweat runs by the liter…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0523.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0524.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0525.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0526.jpg

…but who cares about sweat…this is MAGIC-country again!!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0527.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0528.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0529.jpg

glitch
04-11-2007, 04:36 PM
The air is still and the sun hammers into the hillside like there’s no-tomorrow.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0530.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0531.jpg

I’ve rarely been happy to get off a bike…but I couldn’t slide off fast enough at the top…jacket flying into the grass, boots off, the soaked T-shirt catches the breeze that flows over the top of the barren ridge.

Christ…this thing nearly had me! The clutch of the 11RT stinks, the engine heat is unbearable, even standing a meter away from the bike.

And the old shitbox is glowing. We had our arguments…but made it up in one piece.

Not a difficult or tricky road by itself…just that a few things came together, that made it…hmmm…different? Stuff it…let’s have a look around.

And as we’ve seen a few days ago, there must’ve been some serious biffs between the pontiffs/ earls/ dukes/whatever… of the 2 sides of the ridge. There are plenty of ancient buildings, forts/ gun emplacements and other fortifications…. let’s stroll around a little and cool off, aye? :wink:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0532.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0533.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0534.jpg

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http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0536.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0537.jpg

Gosh…what place!! :eek: Worth all the sweat in the world!!:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0538.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0539.jpg

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http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0545.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0546.jpg

What’s over the other side?

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0547.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0548.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0550.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0551.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0552.jpg

A last... sad... parting gaze…another deeeep breath...

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0553.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0554.jpg

A few more meters of dirt… then the asphalt starts at the Kiosk in the saddle opposite.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0555.jpg

Yup…quads can be road-registered around here…:D

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0556.jpg

Down the mountain is a slow, content tootle… the late sun bathing everything in a golden light. We’re in Italy now, but tacking south on the main road, the tunnel back into France starts after only 1km…for all of it’s 3k’s…. and we’re back into France…and exactly where we started a couple of hours ago.

More quads at a servo along the way south…looks like they’ve had a great day out, too. :cool:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0557.jpg

Accommodation seems a bit sparse here….we have to keep searching until we hit pay dirt in Breil-sur-Roya.
The small hotel sits in a pretty valley just outside of town and there’s a whole pack of bikes already there…. some Pommie Touring Club as we’ll find out later.
They seemed to have been on the road for a while, too…there’s some “Chinese Laundry” gracing their open room windows…

The “Castel du Roy” is a bit pricey but the only “hole” we could find... what the hell, it certainly ain’t no Anna or Pascal (that’d be a bit much to expect, really…but??)….

Let’s walk into town, have a bagful of laughs, a coldie or full-whacked Red
and a 3-course menu ….

Col de Tende?….Bowl-me-over...WHOOOHOO !!!:glu:glu:glu

Clowndog
04-11-2007, 04:56 PM
Just absolutely S T U N N I N G ! photos and report so far !

You should post a warning on page one, "Prolonged viewing may cause shortness of breath and fits of jealousy".

Fan-Bloody-Tastic !

I envy you the trip, but not all the work that goes in to posting it up :)

glitch
04-11-2007, 05:15 PM
Just absolutely S T U N N I N G ! photos and report so far !

You should post a warning on page one, "Prolonged viewing may cause shortness of breath and fits of jealousy".
:)

Happy, you're enjoying it ! :chug::so

glitch
04-11-2007, 05:16 PM
Just absolutely S T U N N I N G ! photos and report so far !
Fan-Bloody-Tastic



....and to think there's another 34 days to come !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :glu:glu:glu :glu:glu:glu :glu:glu:glu

Hytram
04-11-2007, 05:56 PM
this is exactly how my Strom chain looks at the moment :looney:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0502.jpg

glitch
04-11-2007, 07:28 PM
this is exactly how my Strom chain looks at the moment :looney:
[/IMG]

Shame on you :thun :bs

glitch
04-11-2007, 08:10 PM
Upon pm-request:

here are a couple of shots of the Tornantis. :eek::eek:

The pics were taken on Day13 in Brigerbad/ Switzerland in front of Monikas and Ernst's place, another one of those "join-the-family" places we came across...fantastic people with a BIG heart.

It's the morning we met Renato from "BiancoBlues" :wink: down-valley in Martigny, the last day for TT's (TimTim/ TassieTim) 1150R and Pete's 1100RT.
Both were swapped around lunchtime for two 2007 non-ABS GS12s
:dance::dance:

L to R:
Goodie on the 650GS....Karel with the 2004 GS12...Pete and the 1100RT

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0601.jpg

The 2 Tims! :lollol:
TT on the left with his badly fuelled 1150R, the thing had a capital "hole" around the crucial 4000rpm mark...."standard" Tim (normal sounds nasty here, aye:whistle:) with the 1150RT that stayed with us to the end....he actually got quite attached to it :eek::razz::razz:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0602.jpg



We all know eachother from various internet forums... which has resulted in previous "big" rides together....none as big and long as this, though.

Usually a week or 2 through the twisties between Brisbane-and-Melbourne, Snowies...or...Tassie.
One or more of the various "6-peaks" rides, "Bananarama", "Tassie-Gems"...the "Beef 'n Reef"..."NZ's Fire 'n Ice"..."Goin' Troppo" ....Thrills 'n Spills" ....or whichever ride in the past.

glitch
05-11-2007, 11:42 AM
Hi there.... "Anonymous viewer" !!
:hi
Hope you enjopy the yarn and keep coming back for more !
Since we opened up the "Ride-Report" section to public viewing, we also have been keeping tabs on "guest-hits"...

Numbers are climbing day-by-day and that will, no doubt, be partially due to this yarn unfolding.

It'd be nice if at least the one or other would sign up and also participate in this thread... some comment or question here or there will certainly bring out more of the details/ background.

So...shoot away, sign up and get amongst it. :chug:

glitch
05-11-2007, 11:53 AM
By now we’d started to realize that there was NO WAY to do all the roads that were “listed” for each day in our 32-page itinerary… and that was the heavily condensed “take-along on-the-road” version!! :eek:

We just HAD to drop a few things along the way… the part of France between the Italian border in the East, and a Grenoble-to-Marseilles-line in the west sprouts scenery and roads to spent months on….and that’s without trying.
And riding your heart out everyday….I mean, EVERYDAY.

Add the available picturesque dead-end valleys….some dirt/ gravel roads and all those little interconnecting local tracks…. and one can get lost for years…EASILY !!:drool:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0603.jpg

The socks ‘n jocks of our Pommie-mates must’ve dried overnight, the windows are clear this morning. Breakfast was another Grande-Affair, a smorgasboard with all the trimmings…. even if the place was a little "sterile" compared to the private quarters we’ve had in the past few days.

On a whole, things were panning out as I’d hoped…we’d only had 150km of AutoStrada and ~100km on major “commuting” roads…the rest of the riding was done on 3rd and 4th category backroads. Demanding riding for sure, but that’s what we’d come for. A typical 8-9 hr. day on the road resulted in ~250km.
The type of road and terrain… the many photostops…just the atmosphere as a whole didn’t make for great distances, the riding is just too intense. But then… so is everything else around here. :wink:

Another quick-fix on one of the BM’s, there seems to be SOMETHING all the time, on one bike or the other. Nothing major or crippling just niggles.

Pulling out onto the main road, Yours Truly has one of his short lapses….no traffic while doing the headcheck…and I pull straight into the left lane of the main road, fiddling with some switches or gloves, shoving the map under my butt for quick access…
As the head comes up, there’s a pair of eyes the size of dunny-seats staring at me through the windscreen of an oncoming car!!…only 20m off at this stage. :eek::eek::eek:
FAAARK !!! The poor local at the wheel has most probably shit himself by now!
And I’m only a poofteenth behind…
:oops::oops:

The old barge protests mightily at the sudden, violent “tear-across” to the right, but it comes all-good in the end….shit, WAKE UP, boy !! :looney:

Tim behind me just shakes his head…one of my hands goes up in a typical-Renato (BiancoBlu) Italian gesture: “WHAT’s the Problem, heh?” ….while I’m battling the shakes.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0604.jpg

A nice, little warm-up down the sweepers and more open twisties (well….by now we have a different view about “open” or “tight”…tight means TIGHT!!…as in close to walking-pace) across the Col de Brouis down to Sospel.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0605.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0606.jpg

The Gorges du Piaon on the way up to the Col de Turini are pretty…the road’s a cracker :glu

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0607.jpg

No shit, Sherlock !!??

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0608.jpg

Carving up the Turini, pass-of-glory during the annual Rally Monte Carlo

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0610.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0609.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0611.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0612.jpg

The valleys are narrow…and steep !…which often makes for hairpins in-town

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0613.jpg

glitch
05-11-2007, 11:59 AM
…up at the Col…hey, there’s company! :D

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0614.jpg

Look!!….another boxer :razz::razz:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0615.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0616.jpg

What a bewdy…power take-off to drive the sidecar-wheel

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0617.jpg

A deep, bassy bellow and roar comes from out of one of the valleys, the sound is spine-tingling and fits the setting perfectly.
HOLLLLLLA….another “rig”…and maaaan, look at the engineering in this!!
LOVE IT!
One look at the hands of the guy riding it….he’s most probably built it himself, too.
We lock eyes…a lopsided grin each…YEAH, he built it, I’m sure now!:cool:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0618.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0619.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0620.jpg

It’s off again…the downhiller to La Bollene-Vesubie is calling

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0621.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0623.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0624.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0625.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0626.jpg

The second scare of the day….Tim pulls into the spot I’m temporarily occupying in that pic, the little traffic-island at the bottom left of the intersection.
He’s corner-marking and seeing the last of the crew come down the hill, takes off into the tunnel…in the left lane !!
I yell my head off inside the helmet…and he actually hears it, pulling sharply to the right within a split-second.
After 5 days on the road without any of this, that’s 2 of us within a few hours…:kna:kna

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0627.jpg

Clever design or…recycling?
Looks like the innersprings of old mattresses…the local rockfall-netting.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0628.jpg

North to St. Martin de Vesubie and down into the main valley, tacking south onto the D2205 for a few k’s.

At Pont-de-Clans we turn off for the D26 south-west, a 15km “shortcut” to get us to the southern end of the Gorges du Cians…what a great move!! The single-laner has a brand-new super smooth surface, it’s narrow and tight, the scenery from above the valley is stumping…:drool: :tu

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0629.jpg

The new surface stops after a couple of k’s and things get really interesting…and involved, as there are patches of missing asphalt coming up suddenly after blind corners… the rest is bumpy, a carpet of 1000’s of patches and ridges…potholes and “bathtubs”…the old BM and I fight each other... a meter at a time.

Villars sur Var is one of those cute, little towns perched above the valley floor… glued to the lower slopes of a mountain. The central plaza is shady, the lanes narrow, the little restaurant at the plaza bustling with families out for Sunday-lunch.

Kids playing…the church bells add to the happy-sounds every 15 mins with some massive ding-dooooongs. What a perfect spot for lunch…just plonk down in the square and become part of the scene…:dance::scull:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0630.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0631.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0632.jpg

This little tacker adopted us....wouldn't quit rambling, all agitated and informative, arms and legs never still for a second :bs

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0633.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0634.jpg

Anyone for a bite? :razz:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0635.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0636.jpg

Then through the Gorges du Cians…the rock changes to a rusty-pink colour for nearly the whole stretch, the road is smooth and quickish…what a difference to the Gorges de Daluis of a few days ago, only 20km further west.…or was it yesterday?.. the afternoon of the day before?…who gives !! Things are already getting fuzzy, there’s just tooooo much of it.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0637.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0638.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0639.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0622.jpg

Across to Valberg and through Guillaumes, a short, quickish set of bends and sweepers…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0640.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0644.jpg

….for one of the Big Old Classics of the Alpes Maritimes: the Col de la Cayolle.

glitch
05-11-2007, 12:07 PM
Come along for the climb….:clap:

Another hairpin through town, the locals playing boule in the shade of the trees on the “centre-island”…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0642.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0641.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0643.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0646.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0647.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0660.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0661.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0648.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0658.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0655.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0649.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0656.jpg

One of the “locals”…and very rare to be seen. This was a hasty, freehand 10x teleshot, 2 seconds later it was gone…:cool:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0659.jpg

Up at the top…the world at your feet :drool::drool:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0653.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0654.jpg

Again the afternoon is getting late… shadows creep deep and it’s getting comfortably cool in the dark corners on the downhiller

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0654a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0654b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0657.jpg

Huhhh… He, She, It?…we still can’t make up our minds today.
Look at the legs….then the skirt….??? ..whatever, worth the shot! :bs

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0662.jpg

There’s some frantic search for petrol in Barcelonette, it’s Sunday night eh?… but after a couple of laps of town and some asking around, we find an open servo…then it’s off to Jausieres, tomorrow’s jump-off point.

We tootle past a few places, small hotels… some are closed, waiting for the winter-season to start….until we hit the tiny centre-of-town… the OLD building with the green sign catches our eye.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0663.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0664.jpg

Pierre and Carolyn open their arms and house for us… how lucky can you be to find yet another one of those places where the welcome is warm and personal, the place somehow special….HOME from the first second…

:so:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0666.jpg

“ Which rooms do you want?”
We settle for “Josephine” and “Africa”….as everything is “themed” in this place.
Africa for the “3 picolinis” then… Goodie and I get the Josephine.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0667.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0669.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0670.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0671.jpg

The rooms are airy and generous, the bathrooms obviously a late addition.
Josephine sprouts the “wet-cell” behind a ¾ high partition…all part of the room.
Cute…:D

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0665.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0668.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0672.jpg

The last rays of sunshine bathing Jausieres….

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0673.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0674.jpg

….but some big, thundery clouds are rolling in on our way to the small restaurant we saw on the way in. A few, fat drops of rain come down…slow, lazy and not enough to even take the heat out of the asphalt.

That’s for tomorrow…first things first!

After this

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0675.jpg

the menu somehow looks like this :???:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0676.jpg

Who cares, when that finishes the day? :D

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0677.jpg

Josephine’s waiting… cop ya in the morning :lol:

glitch
05-11-2007, 05:23 PM
Here's a double-pronged question:
Sorting through the pics to be screened/prepped for uploading, I stumbled across a folder with well over 400 pics. Yep...ONE days' worth.
After 3 rounds of screening it's down to ~170, another round would drop it to perhaps 150.
After that, I wouldn't know what more to trim....but that's me.
It's one of the top-5 days for sure but 150pics for one day...I don't know.

Therefore the question:
1) to the Tornantis: If someone came along and gave you a ticket to re-run ONE single day out of the whole lot exactly the way we've had it.....WHICH ONE ???

2) To everyone: would such a number kill the whole thing? Too many pics and it all becomes a blur, too few and the essence of THAT day might not come across.
Which way to go?

Clowndog
05-11-2007, 07:12 PM
would such a number kill the whole thing? Too many pics and it all becomes a blur, too few and the essence of THAT day might not come across.
Which way to go?

You could maybe do 50 photos in the normal fasion and do 100 thumbnails ? I imagine that would be a huge amount of work tho as im not sure how much of the thumbnail creation and linking process you could automate.

If thumbnails are too difficult to do on that scale, perhaps just hyperlinks for the hardcore viewers to follow or a link to a seperate gallery page for each segment, picasa or something ?



On another note, do you have any particular system for keeping track of so many pictures and the thoughts and impressions that go with them while you're on the road ? Love to hear your secret, I was considering taking along a voice recorder on my trips but that's me, im a bit of a gadget geek :D

Hytram
05-11-2007, 10:03 PM
more the merrier :thumbs::thumbs:




its a freaken blur anyhow :glu

glitch
06-11-2007, 07:36 AM
there were 2 more replies, one on email, the other a pm.


Here's a quote of TT's email:
Tough question!!
I have covered up to P3 and then
jumped along to 8 - super work mate, you are doing it justice and it's
not going to bore anyone who likes the thrill of the tour!!
OK the answer.
For me and what I expected to cover I saw and did it but
ended up being totally amazed by one day would have to be the
Assietta, not sure you can do it again now though???
...and that's part of why it's so special. I think the Dolomites will stand a few years more and the Susten will not be closed next year but that climb into the gods on the magic single lane of hot mix, followed by dirt that I
reckon I stood up for at least 1/2 hour on that R to reach the summit
was a huge surprise!!!
Can we do it again, can we ????

I need some more riding. PS Bruce reckons my riding has improved
heaps, I just flow along the roads. I am surprised at how wide our
lanes seem now and I am not using all the width of my own lane - even
the Strathgordon road seemed wide - go figure???
Cheers
tim2


...and yeah, my choice, too....and that's the day in question here.
One of the crown5 days we've had....and if any ONE day could be repeated exactly the way it was, it'd HAVE to be the Assietta...

glitch
06-11-2007, 07:58 AM
You could maybe do 50 photos in the normal fasion and do 100 thumbnails ? I imagine that would be a huge amount of work tho as im not sure how much of the thumbnail creation and linking process you could automate.

If thumbnails are too difficult to do on that scale, perhaps just hyperlinks for the hardcore viewers to follow or a link to a seperate gallery page for each segment, picasa or something ?

On another note, do you have any particular system for keeping track of so many pictures and the thoughts and impressions that go with them while you're on the road ? Love to hear your secret, I was considering taking along a voice recorder on my trips but that's me, im a bit of a gadget geek :D

Hi mate
Each idea has it's mkerits...the thumbnails? Like the idea, but it'd be very cumbersome as all pics sit on a server without any additional software or apps to run them. It'd also kill the flow of the whole thing....

Posting hyperlinks only is messy, nobody knows what's "behind" them and has to click each to find out.
Picasa is an option, but I'd hate to start and establish accounts somewhere, which over time would "vanish"...unless I purchase space somewhere.

The secret? It's a loose bunch of notes scribbled each night as we went along. Add the maps to get the names right...and follow the route in detail again while writing away.
The pics were sorted in day-folders, then 'filtered' over and over (after all, there were 5 cameras and many shots were similar/ from the same vantage point etc.)
Keeping track of which pic is which/ belongs where...
If you do a rightclick/properties on any of the posted pics, you'll see a filename like tor (for tornanti)...0574.jpg (day05....pic 74)
Each pic is re-named manually to get them into sequence, if I find the odd one that belongs into an earlier part of the sequence, the filename changes to tor5074a or b...c...d...whatever, this way they sequence in the day-folder on the HDD....same shows under ftp on the server they're uploaded to.
The only automated process is the re-sizing of the pics to max. allowed width of 700pixels.

Clowndog
06-11-2007, 08:04 AM
In that case im with Marty H then, the more the merrier.

Bring it on !!! :wave:

glitch
06-11-2007, 10:11 AM
Thanks for the ideas everyone...went through it again and again...but you'll still have to go through 132 of 'em...hope, the impact of that day will come across :glu:glu

glitch
06-11-2007, 10:25 AM
A few clouds up there…but another good morning. :clap:

We’re planning a major stab north for the start, then see how it pans out.
The breakfast room looks like a “provencal”-design… warm, cosy and little knickknacks everywhere…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0701.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0702.jpg

Cross-vaulted ceilings…this place is a few years old!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0703.jpg

The term “historical” takes on a whole different meaning here, too…there are many buildings from the 1200s to 1700s… private homes or hotels or commercial buildings from the 1600s aren’t really a rarity, many of them still going as to the original builders intent. And many of them are still the original family’s property.
The beer we drank a couple of nights ago in Guillaumes, the “1664” ?
Right!…brewed by the same folks since 1664 ! :drool:

The Col de Vars starts right at the front door…and drops into Guillestre.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0704.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0705.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0706.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0707.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0708.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0709.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0710.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0711.jpg

It’s still nippy as we drop into Guillestre, the morning sun and clouds put on a dramatic show as the road dips

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0712.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0713.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0714.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0715.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0716.jpg
http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0717.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0718.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0719.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0720.jpg

Finding our way through town is a 5min affair, it’s still quiet.
Straight into another one of the Classics, the Col d’Izoard and into the Hautes Alpes proper.

Wanna ride with us, see what we’ll see along the way?
Get kitted up then and…. let’s boogie….:chug::chug:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0720a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0721.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0722.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0722a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0723.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0723a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0724.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0725.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0726.jpg

Slowly things fall into a rhythm, the group moves stretched out across the key stretches, bunches close before towns…after stops everyone checks random panniers/ topcases and tankbags for loose bits or zips undone…
The trust-on-the-road is also growing day by day, close quarter riding while overtaking a line of cars hardly bears a thought…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0728.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0729.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0730.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0730a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0731.jpg

And there they are…luring us for most of the climb up the d’Izoard, the glaciers are close now…we’re finally in the REAL mountains! :eek::so:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0731a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0732.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0732a.jpg

Looks like we’ve made good time, no surprise…traffic was light. :D
Let’s drop down to Briancon for a coffee and make more plans for the afternoon….there’s a tiny road from ahhh, what’s the name?? :???::???:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0733.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0734.jpg

Jeez guys…we didn’t go THAT quick? :eek:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0735.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0736.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0737.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0738.jpg

Typical Pete…taking the map to coffee...even to bed.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0739.jpg

Decisions are made….first a bit of quick commuting, tacking north up the valley, across the lowly Col de Lautaret to the western end of the Barrage du Chambon.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0740.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0740a.jpg

Then we somehow have to find the D211A and 211B. One an extension to the other, they run along the steep mountainside parallel to the main road in the valley.
They call them the "Balcony-Roads"...
I’ve read about them on the net…and the pics on some mountain-bike related site had done it for me :glu:glu….it’s a DON'T MISS!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0741.jpg

The first little bit towards Alpe d’Huez

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0741a.jpg

glitch
06-11-2007, 11:00 AM
All of a sudden, things get messy. There’s an intersection, but no signs…a little further up the road ends in a small village. Or rather…narrows to about 2meters... (if that!) ....and then splits into various lanes leading any which way between the buildings.

From a birds-eye view, the next 20 mins would be hilarious:D:doh::so…

A tiny hamlet glued to the steep hillside, a maze of narrow lanes and paths leading everywhere…and 5 bikes inching their way back and forth through the laneway-spaghetti…. making near-impossible U-turns, loose each other completely until only the mobile-phone gets them back together at the carpark just outside the place…and all that in the mid-day heat.
I mean…. the whole bloody place wouldn’t’ve been bigger than 100x100 meters, Jeezaz!! :eek::eek:

After all that, we reverse our steps and finally come across the sign…
There we go ! Found it ! :kna::kna

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0742.jpg

Did I say that the pics looked spectacular on the net?
Cop THIS then !! :slobb:slobb

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0743.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0744.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0745.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0746.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0747.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0748.jpg

This is just incredible. The little single-laner claws its way along the hillside, the views are majestic…the pace drops to a crawl…is this for real?? :glu

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0749.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0750.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0751.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0752.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0753.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0756.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0758.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0759.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0760.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0761.jpg

We hit the “main” road again at La Garde, just a kilometre from Le Bourg d’Oisans.
Everyone’s gasping, the bikes as well…a round a liquids for everyone!
A small servo offers itself….
Karel’s face says it all.
Another attempt is made to contact Renato/ BiancoBlu regarding the swap of the bikes…"are the 2 GS12s ready? Where and when can we meet?"
No replies...

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0762.jpg

It’s a quick stretch back to the Col de Lautaret…near the top is the turn-off up yet another one of the Great Old Classics…the Col de Galibier.

( Writing this now…how much can one cram into a single day? How much can one absorb of all this? It’s mind-boggling!)

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0763.jpg

Climbing…and climbing…and climbing…the Galibier is a high one at over 2600m

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0764.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0765.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0766.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0768.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0769.jpg

The Citroen 2CV …or commonly known as “The Duck”. It went out of production sometime in the ‘80s after a production-run in the millions, this one looks either very well-kept…or restored. It’s a true cult-car over here…like the little Fiat 500 or the original Beetle.
No powerhouse with a 2cyl 600cc Boxer engine…but it gets you there.
EVERYTIME !

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0770.jpg

Couldn’t let that one slide past, aye? :D

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0771.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0772.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0773.jpg

Dropping towards St. Michel de Maurienne

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0774.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0776.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0777.jpg

Decisions have to be made from here…there’s lots of uncertainty about the Col de Finestre and Assietta Ridge Road at this stage. The last 2 weeks before leaving AUS I’d scoured the Euro newsgroups and forums…and there were lots of threads regarding those 2 roads and their closure for bikes and quads (only!!…all other vehicles are fine!!!! :eek::eek::eek:)

Controversy, too…
The pics posted showed signs that the roads were closed, others insisting that they’d done them the week before and all was fine…no conclusions offered. Hmmmphhhh…
Fines are HEFTY if caught...instant confiscation of bikes has happened before...and foreign tourists are NOT excluded!!

Two ways to cut east from where we are…the Frejus-Tunnel or the longer way via Lanslebourg, then south across the Mt. Cenis to Susa…starting point of the Finestre.
Which carries one of the question marks…from there it’s about 80km to the other side of the Finestre, which seemed to be unaffected by the closures…the Assietta starts close to the top of the Col de Finestre.

Some concrete-spaghetti got us to the Frejus Tunnel…but at a 107 Euros for 5 bikes, we baulked ! Big, fat clouds were pushing in fast, too…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0778.jpg

Then the dreaded main-road to Modane first, some roadworks in town directed us onto the old road via Aussois up the valley…NOICE!:D:cool:

Nice sweepers mixed with some tighter sections, little traffic…the going is good, but the afternoon is coming to a close.
Tootling through Lanslebourg, the skies behind us are black when this catches our eye...

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0801.jpg

The Hotel Les Marmottes it is then!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0779.jpg

Oh Gosh…what a day….that D211 Balcony Road cut deep, what a PERLER !!

Close your eyes...whadda ya see?

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0780.jpg

motorradrudi
06-11-2007, 04:35 PM
Hi Pete,

well done! VERY WELL DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :glu:glu:glu

All those fantastic pics - still a dream!

"A dream came true"

That's a grandiose tour - don't wanna miss one of the pics!

And all that without any traffic! Still alone on the roads!

Beste greatings
Rudi

glitch
06-11-2007, 06:07 PM
"A dream came true"

That's a grandiose tour - don't wanna miss one of the pics!

And all that without any traffic! Still alone on the roads!

Beste greatings
Rudi

Yes, a dream come true...
did it ever!

glitch
07-11-2007, 09:49 AM
It’s still dark out there when I wake up, slowly pried from slumber by the swishing sound of cars on wet roads….bummer !
:(
No surprise, really... remembering the big clouds of the previous afternoon... still…bummer !

Then again…after the last week on the road, a “rest”-day might be a good idea, too!:cool:
A little “me”-time…. to chew through the crushing pile of impressions of the first week.
Writing some postcards, check out the little town, hopefully find an internet café to make some contact with home…check the bikes over, repack the panniers after a week’s worth of chaotic use….just re-group, re-focus and make plans for the days ahead.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0802.jpg

Arghhh…no net-access in this town. :mad: Only the library has got some comps, and they’re open 2 afternoons a week and Sat morning….and today is none of those times.
Net access has really been non-existent so far, the small towns and “backblocks” we’d travelled through are still way behind.

Our United Mobile SIM cards are working intermittentluy, too….sometimes ok, most times not. SMS’s can’t be sent, some get lost, some never received. We really never know until there’s some phone contact with home through one or the other of the group…

Lanslebourg…random pickings

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0803.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0804.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0805.jpg

OMG…mum and dad had one of those over 40 years ago…Ford Taunus 17M

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0806.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0807.jpg

Shopping for lunch…TT and I would love to book in with the local Latterie for the next week or so…they’d carry us out on a slab after that. Death by cheese!!
And the Bakery !! <groaaannn> :drool:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0808.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0809.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0810.jpg

Lunch amongst half-packed panniers, maps, crap of all sorts…and DIRTY socks! :bs

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0811.jpg

The “Eggnog”…she certainly is “prioritaire”…Goodie’s skidlid :D

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0813.jpg

Backing up the memory cards…double-backups onto 80G portable Hard-drives

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0814.jpg

Tim’s Ipod-gizmo has found an unsecured network in a corner of the hotel and we get a couple of emails out…it’s slow work using the tiny stylo to cobble a message together.
Let’s get out for an afternoon stroll, it stopped raining…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0815.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0816.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0817.jpg

Where ever one turns, there’s something worth sorting through the loose change for...

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0818.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0819.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0820.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0821.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0822.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0823.jpg

Goodie detects a tiny sign in the window of the ladies-fashion shop opposite…they offer a laundry service. Only 1 household-sized washer, but a couple of loads aren’t a problem….yeeha, another problem fixed! :so:so

And the afternoon is starting to brighten up…but it’s getting nippy.

The sign we all LOVE to see...but on ENTERING town?? Ah well...:bs

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0824.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0825.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0826.jpg

Now to the sorting :doh::whistle:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0827.jpg


So, after a week on the road, how does everyone fare?
Karel still hasn’t found a replacement for his much-loved Milo.:eek:
Tim doesn’t give a shit about Milo, and has traded his steadfast-drink of bourbon/ coke for….the local beers !!!:eek::looney::D

Between the 2 of them they can’t agree on what’s “the REAL” Explorer sock.:bs
TT’s still smarting over those 2.80Euro bottles of water in Jausiers…:clap:
Goodie’s fairly quiet and looks after everyone…as always.:wink:
And Yours Truly? Still only happy when rugged up in a pile of Michelin maps when snuggling in for the night…

“What’s the problem??”

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0828.jpg

No problems then, let’s make plans for tomorrow!
The calls/SMSs to BiancoBlu have once again not yielded any response…:(

We decide to just give things a go…the controversy regarding the either permanent or temporary closure of either or both the Colle della Finestre and the Asssietta Ridge are not going to put us off from going to have a look ourselves…at the worst it’ll be an extra 130km “commute” on still-worth-every-meter roads :wow:, and there’s a few other tacks into dead-end valleys that look like crackers… on the maps at least.

Let’s hope the bearded old fellow “up there” will have his ears-to-the-ground and get us some sunshine for tomorrow…

farawayman
07-11-2007, 05:02 PM
Bastids.........


yer all bastids........

Hey that's my line :angry:


But you are so right Bastages the lot of them :thun

Keep it up Pete
Looking good :bow:

glitch
07-11-2007, 08:44 PM
But you are so right Bastages the lot of them :thun


So, tell us...what else would you rather do with that quick net-connection at work :bs :upyrs:

farawayman
08-11-2007, 09:11 AM
So, tell us...what else would you rather do with that quick net-connection at work :bs :upyrs:

Come on I've caught up, what's taking so long :poke:
I don't mind going to work it's that eight hour wait before I can go home that I can't stand, that's where the quick net-connection helps :bs

glitch
08-11-2007, 09:37 AM
I don't mind going to work it's that eight hour wait before I can go home that I can't stand, that's where the quick net-connection helps :bs

:lol::lol:

glitch
08-11-2007, 09:46 AM
For anyone who's got problems with pages NOT loading...
(or loading incompletely)

Goto 'UserCP'
In the Control Panel Section on the left, click "Edit Profile"
About halfway down you'll find "Number of Posts to Show Per Page"
which will be set "Forum Default" (10posts/page).
Use the dropbox to change to 5posts/page and SAVE your selection on the bottom of the page.

It reduces the number of posts per page that have to be loaded when clicking on any page....in the case of this thread, it could easily save loading-up an extra 100photos...

glitch
08-11-2007, 12:37 PM
And the old, bearded guy “upstairs” had listened…but not before adding some extra-trimmings. :clap:
The snow-cap wasn’t there 2 days ago!!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0901.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0901a.jpg

Let’s quickly re-cap that Finestre/ Assietta thing:
Due to too much bike and quad traffic tearing up the hills, the NORTHERN ramp from Susa to the actual Col is the part with the question mark. It’s a miniscule single-laner, sealed, from Susa. About half-way up, it turns to dirt. From here to the top it was supposed to be closed….or not
The SOUTHERN ramp of the Finestre from Chambons/ Fenestrelle is just as narrow, but sealed and still open to bikes/ quads. Just south of the top, the Assietta Ridge Road starts and leads about 40km along the spine of the hill, before dropping into Sestriere.

Us coming from the north and the Finestre being closed, would mean an extra 110km to get to the southern approach of the Finestre…about 3 hrs. extra…plus extra time for a tank stop to make sure of full tanks for the Assietta and back out to Quix, the next fuel on the way back.

And since we’re still in France, we'll kick off with a hop across Mt. Cenis into Italy for the start……an early start then, and jeez… it is freeeeezing!

Quick tyre-check first … and Yours Dumbo grabs the wrong schnozzle, filling the old RT with 4l of Diesel before realizing it and watering it down with “Regular95”. She runs sweet all day…didn’t use any other oil, in fact! :eek: No hiccups, no farts…does that mean something? :bs

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0901b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0901c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0901d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0901e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0901f.jpg

50cc with external drive-belt, Harley…eat your heart out.:wink::wink:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0901g.jpg

Lac de Mont Cenis at the top of the Col…what a sight for the start of the day !! :drool:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0902.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0902a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0902b.jpg

The drop into Susa...

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0903.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0903a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0903b.jpg

Here we are…that’s it !! :so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0903c.jpg

And the Finestre lives up to it’s reputation! :eek:
We instantly know, that even with the whole of the last week under our belts we’re in for something real special here…

It’s narrow…trying to overtake one of the local little Fiats takes the friendly co-operation of the driver to find a spot to pull over. No way to even get a pushbike past the tin-can otherwise.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0904.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0904a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0904b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0904c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0904d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0904e.jpg

The end of the asphalt and there’s a local council worker with a spanner in his hand, just finishing to bolt those signs to the new post.

SHIT !!! Shit, shit !!!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0905.jpg

glitch
08-11-2007, 12:41 PM
The crew stops, I get off and walk across….YES, it’s CLOSED !!
:(:(:(
I turn around, dejected…then turn again and try to explain in ridiculous Italian, that we’re a bunch of Aussies, and jeez, man, c'mon…….…he chucks the spanner into the blue tub in the back of the little 4WD, looks at me again, a loooong look…then waves us through!!! :so:so

YEE-fuggen-HAAA !!!!

Little did anyone know, that with that gesture he’d opened the doors wiiiiddee to
T H E P R I M E D A Y
of our whole 38 days of the trip.
A beaming smile, a quiet “ grazie”… :chug:

We talk on for a few moments…the “bare” sections of the post are waiting for 2 more signs to go up soon….the one which limits the ban for bikes/ quads from 1.May to 30. Oct…and the second one for the winter-close (for ALL vehicles) from 1.Nov to 30.April…in effect closing the road for bikes/ quads all year around.

There you have it:

The last bikes to ride up the Finestre from Susa to the top, will be … at least for a long, long time, if not forever…. a bunch of 5 Aussies!!!!!!!
The little 4WD leaves towards Susa…and we just can’t believe our luck.

Let’s enjoy this….it WON'T come again!!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0905a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0905b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0905c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0905d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0905e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0905f.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0905g.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0905h.jpg

Yes…we’re taking our time….lots of it.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0905j.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0906.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0906a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0906b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0906c.jpg

Near the top…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0906f.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0906g.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0907.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0907b.jpg

That sure was worth a sticker !!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0907c.jpg

glitch
08-11-2007, 12:44 PM
Across the top…and the scenery changes dramatically. :glu
Towards the Assietta turn off…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0908.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0908b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0908a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0908c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0908d.jpg




Where words just don't cut it!!




http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0909.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0909a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0909b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0909c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0909d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0909e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0909f.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0909g.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0909h.jpg

This can’t be real…:glu:glu

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0910.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0910a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0910b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0910c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0910d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0910e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0910f.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0910g.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0910h.jpg

STUMPING... doesn’t even come close!!!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0911.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0911a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0911b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0911c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0911d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0911e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0911f.jpg

The magic of the ridge and the road are somewhere between a never-ending howl… a HUUUGE grin…. silent reflection…or outright tears…or all of them packed into the same second. It’s heavy…


http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0912.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0912a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0912b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0912c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0912d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0912e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0912f.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0912g.jpg



….or a place to re-focus on life in general…pick whatever.





http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0913.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0913a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0913b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0913c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0913d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0913e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0913f.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0913g.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0913h.jpg

glitch
08-11-2007, 04:45 PM
Spellbound…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0914.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0914a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0914b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0914c.jpg

….but eventually we have to drop down into Sestriere…and back to earth!
:looney::looney:
TT had some extra fun up top chasing down the only other 2 vehicles we’ve seen…2 GS12’s who just didn’t know what hit ‘em. Amazing, how much air a roadbike can suck…:eek::rolleyes:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0915.jpg

We slowly loop back through Ouix and back across the Col de Mont Cenis, nobody wants the spell to be broken…but we need a break to clear the heads and hearts.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0916.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0916a.jpg

Around the back…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0917.jpg

The marmot, symbol of the area…they live underground between the rocks and rubble of the high slopes, feed all summer…then lower their heart-rate for a real, loooong snooze right through the winter. At the end of summer they’re hardly able to move, fat-bellied as they are by then.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0918.jpg

The day isn’t over yet, though…yet another perler is waiting for us!

Back into Lanslebourg…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0919.jpg

…for the tack across the Col d’Iseran, another of the Big, Old Classics and road into Val d’Isere.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0921.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0922.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0923.jpg

As if the morning wouldn’t been enough for one day:glu:glu…and it got NIPPY!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0924.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0925.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0925a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0925b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0925c.jpg

The Hautes Alps…they’re something else!:clap::clap:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0926.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0927.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0928.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0929.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0930.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0931.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0932.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0933.jpg

If THAT doesn’t get under your skin…might as well be dead.

glitch
08-11-2007, 04:51 PM
http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0934.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0935.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0936.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0937.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0938.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0939.jpg

Carving down to Val d’Isere :D

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0941.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0942.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0944.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0946.jpg

Let’s have a break…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0947.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0948.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0949.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0951.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0952.jpg

No words needed…fugg me dead, WHAT A DAY !!!!


http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor0950.jpg

:lao:lao:lao:lao

Still dreaming and content with the world we roll down the valley, through Tignes, another of those pretty soul-less French Ski-resorts that are dead in summer… to Bourg St. Maurice.
The first joint on the left turns out to be a different type of hotel…it’s a bit worn, it’s quirky (our rooms have alcove rooms under the roof, the staircases so steep, they’re rather a ladder)…but the food holds what the menu proclaims, good stuff !! :so

Chuck in some coldies and some nice local vino… and I know that I’m not the only one who shuts his eyes with a head-splitting grin.

HUUUGE CHEERS and an even bigger FAREWELL to the Finestre and the Assietta !!!
While ecstatic that we’d had the pleasure and privilege to use the roads, I’m so much the sadder for those who’ll never have the chance.

To the "unwitting" council worker: Maaate, what have you done to us??
You knew, didn’cha? You KNEW…. :chug::chug:



:tu:tu:tu:tu

motorradrudi
08-11-2007, 05:40 PM
:glu:glu:glu:glu:glu

What a day!

The Finestre and the Asietta!


:glu:glu:glu

And those pics!

:lao:lao

:tu:tu:tu

Best greatings!
Rudi

goodie
08-11-2007, 05:56 PM
What could I possibly add to that??!? The pix tell a lot more than words.
And anyway - I'm still dreaming.....

glitch
09-11-2007, 02:06 PM
Despite the brilliant sunshine, none of us is in too much of a rush this morning…
…the REAL surprise being an SMS from Renato that the 2 GS12s are ready :eek::eek::eek: and where to meet best to cut down his travel-time.

He can’t make it before the weekend, in any case…
We pick Martigny in Switzerland, the northern side of the Great St. Bernard tunnel and to him the extension of the AutoStrada from Milano-to-Aosta.... a straight, quick run.

Yesterday and the “Assietta” have bitten deep…it’s the one and only topic around the breakfast-table. :drool:
Let’s make fresh plans then…the locale is perfect, plenty of stuff around, but what’s best top pack into the next few days until we have to be in Martigny?

Out of here first…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1001.jpg

No rush on the way up the Cormet de Roselend, an easy ride in peaceful surrounds.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1002.jpg


Oops, that sorta shit can be lethal, literally! :lollol:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1003.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1004.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1005.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1006.jpg

A bit further, the Barrage de Roselend.... water like glass.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1007.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1008.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1009.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1010.jpg

Just after, the turn-off across the dam-wall and up the Col du Pre… all of 15k’s long, but what a little corker !!:glu:glu

Let’s enjoy this…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1011.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1012.jpg

6T limit…you KNOW it’ll be good ! :so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1013.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1014.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1015.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1016.jpg

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http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1018a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1018b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1019.jpg

Even the locals are out to bask in the sun…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1020.jpg

Some Tour De France leftovers….

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1021.jpg

We drop into Beaufort…a cuddly-cute little town where the pace seems to be exactly matching ours…there’s the lazy urge of putting the feet up, sip a coffee, yack with the locals and enjoy the sunshine.
And that’s what we’ll do!
Wanna cuppa??

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1022.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1023.jpg

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Gotta go over there, mate...

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1032.jpg

Back towards Bourg St. Maurice via the Col de Saisies and it’s haphazardly spread ski resort up top….

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1033.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1034.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1035.jpg

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http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1037.jpg

glitch
09-11-2007, 02:12 PM
Time to high-tail it across the Col de Petit St. Bernard (The Little St. Bernard), the afternoon is wearing on.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1038.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1039.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1040.jpg

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http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1042.jpg

Crossing into Italy again…
Only a few k’s past the top is a turn-off to Thovex and Morgex in the Aosta Valley…the little Colle San Carlo, what a bewdy to close the day :glu

Only 20k’s long and starting fairly high above the valley, it’s a picturesque single-laner…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1043.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1044.jpg

A quick return trip to Entreves near Courmayeur for a look at Mont Blanc, Europe’s Highest Mountain, but it’s already too late for photos, the valley’s nearly dark.

We drift down-valley towards Aosta in the search for accommodation and things drag on. Finally a sign catches our eye in Arvier: Holiday Flat for rent!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1045.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1046.jpg

Stop…turn back…just to find a note on the door to call some number. I look around... then see the guy-with-apron standing in the door of the Pizzeria opposite making the universal “Telephone” sign.
OK then…
The owner is there 10 mins later and opens the whole lower floor for us… clean, modern, spacey, cool with all the tiles on walls and floors…deal done! :so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1051.jpg

She helps us getting settled, makes a booking at a restaurant up the road, then leaves us the keys and leaves…”Buena notte!!” yup, this feels good!

Near on dark we find the restaurant to be one of those modern glass& concrete things, half-sunken into the hillside.
Quite obviously the rankings are “up” here…this isn’t the run-of-the-mill guesthouse/ pub-style-restaurant and we feel a bit out of place with our tour t-shirts and jeans :eek::eek:…what the hell, let’s enjoy. :wink:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1047.jpg

…and we cleaned them right out of this one. Bummer, good drop! :glu

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1048.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1049.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/tor1050.jpg

At least to me, today has been another step…the mood has changed again.

Finding our feet for the first few days, then dropping into the full-blown tear-arsing-around mode, it’s now changing into long-distance travelling mode…the stage, where the bike and riding become less and less important… but the surrounds, environment, building styles, people and nature take prime attention.

Perhaps it’s the high mountains and steep valleys.... one tends to “shrink” to size somewhat.
Perhaps it’s because the senses just can’t cope with the daily input-overload anymore…and start looking at the smaller bits.
Perhaps it’s the knowledge that, while creeping closer to a fortnight, things will go on and on…no turning around and flying home in a couple of days for the submersion into the daily grind…

Whatever…the exuberant euphoria somehow flipped after the Assietta and has given way to a deep, slow enjoyment, which seems to put everything into a different light.

And that really is the core of long-distance touring to me....




A SAD GOODBYE to the “Tour-de-Force-de-France”….




…and HELLO to the “Tour-de Speck-de-Suisse” !! :bs

glitch
09-11-2007, 05:17 PM
Yup folks, you're in the right thread :chug:
This is the 2.part of the Euro-Alps yarn.
What's ahead?
Oh...boooyyy!!
Switzerland, Austria, more of Italy and Dolomites....a bit of Germany and Slovenia, then more Switzerland...
Strap yourself in for some more spectacular pics, fresh snow and a bucketload of twisties, day after day after day.

We'll start with Day11 on the road, crossing the Great St. Bernard Pass from the Aosta Valley in Italy....to Martigny in Switzerland, then up the Wallis (Upper Rhone Valley) for a day in Zermatt.


To re-cap the last day before continuing here:
http://www.austouring.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8790#post8790


Going back to the start-of-it-all:
http://www.austouring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1506



Enjoy... :so:so

glitch
09-11-2007, 05:24 PM
Thanks to all who've made it so far...:)

The story has busted all boundaries.... there are well over 700 pics in this first part alone. YEP....seven hundred ++ !!! :glu:glu
(The next biggest story buried in the AT archives here is the NZ Fire 'n Ice, five weeks worth with ~400pics total)
To keep things halfway manageable, I'll set a split here and start the 2. part, otherwise things will get too messy, if someone tries to find something specific.

Our ride also has a "natural" break here, as we've left France and won't return for the rest of the ride.

omi
09-11-2007, 07:15 PM
Hi Pitti and Mock !!!!Another page today on the computer ?Everyday I'm waiting for the next one. What a fantastic trip. I can't wait to see it all. When after 2 years planning it became reality you left me the big map of the alps with all tours marked.

Mad about the mountains as we are I followed every km of your trip.It takes a lot of courage to do this. But no guts- no glory. It is like packing lots of beautiful things in a treasure box. If ever you have a dull moment in your life--open the box and it all comes back and lights up your days. Waiting impatiently for the next page.I'm sooooo happy you can experience that together. My heart is with you all the way. Mum

farawayman
09-11-2007, 08:02 PM
Yeh Pitti,

What Omi said :clap::clap:

Keep it up makes me just want to get on the bike and ride, pity we don't have any real mountains here. One day I'm going, thanks for the inspiration.

glitch
09-11-2007, 08:08 PM
Yeh Pitti,

What Omi said :clap::clap:

Keep it up makes me just want to get on the bike and ride, pity we don't have any real mountains here. One day I'm going, thanks for the inspiration.


Glad you enjoy, mate...:so:so
And if this really is an inspiration to go, so much the better :):wink:
Just let me know when, aye? :wink:

goodie
09-11-2007, 08:09 PM
Oh yes, Omi (Peter's mum) followed us all the way - with her finger on the map! :D
We can't thank her enough for her moral support and looking after our place, while we were gone.
Great job, mum - you're the very best! :so :so :clap:

glitch
10-11-2007, 04:17 PM
http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1101.jpg

Once more it shows that staying at some private place outranks a hotel-stay anytime. :so
Just look at what our host presents for breakfast…whatever your heart desires, from various cereals to various breads and rolls, jams honey, yoghurts, cakes…and that’s just the start.
Then add the comfortable, rather cosy room…easy to feel “at-home” here…

The tube of 50+ sunscreen has spread itself liberally around the bottom of Goodie’s tankbag c:eek::eek:…we’ve totally forgotten about that; one just doesn’t need the stuff.
With all the hours we’ve spent in the sun thus far, we’d be burned to a crisp in AUS…NOT HERE! A bit of a tan is as far as it’s gone…

The sun pelts down as we join the early-morning traffic towards Aosta, a pocket-sized version of Milano.
Thankfully there’s a northern bypass, sort-ofc :rolleyes:, leading up the Col du Grand St. Bernard which will get us across to Martigny, the Upper Rhone Valley (the Wallis or… Valais in French)…and Switzerland.

If we’d gone on last night, we’d left France for Italy, and 80km later Italy for Switzerland…3 countries within a stone-throw. :eek::looney:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1102.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1103.jpg

The lower Italian part of the St. Bernard turns out to be one continuous roadworks…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1104.jpg

No idea what this is, looks interesting, though…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1105.jpg

As usual, we’re passing most cars when traffic waits at red lights…. don’t be shy, as long as the oncoming lane is free, just overtake all standing traffic, then squeeze into the front, even if you can’t see the lights anymore…the first car will honk if you’re placed in a way that prevents the cars behind you going past.
Seems totally acceptable around here….:whistle::whistle:

Things improve further up, the top half is clear of traffic and quite quick to ride.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1106.jpg

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Thinking of home??? ONLY when we see postcards…:bs

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1113.jpg

The officials step in…the driver of that blue “Whatever” has got a car problem, as it turns out after some arguing.
Every tight left-turn triggers the horn which makes for quite a racket when they tried to get into a tight parking space…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1114.jpg

Around the top…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1115.jpg

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Forgot the soap? Doesn’t matter…:)

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1118.jpg

Much more scenic is the drop towards Martigny…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1119.jpg

We need some Swiss Francs…the Raiffeisen looks like the modern version of a servo, bowsers missing, but the ATM spits out some bundles of the needed stuff…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1120.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1121.jpg

Rudi from the Alpenbiker Forum had suggested to turn off the main pass at Semblancher, only 10km short of Martigny... using the tiny Col des Planches and Col du Tronc to drop into the Rhone Valley at Saxon…a sort of a shortcut-with-a-twist. And bloody oath, there is more than one of those !! :glu:glu

What a fantastic area :eek::so:so…one could spent a whole day on those little dirt roads…
And we just about to, finding out that the road is closed 1km short of Saxon due to some bridge repairs.

glitch
10-11-2007, 04:26 PM
Doesn’t matter, let’s stick our noses into some nooks and crannies high above the busy Rhone Valley.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1122.jpg

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We just can’t get enough of this :slobb…let’s go back and try to find another way towards Martigny…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1130.jpg

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http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1137.jpg

Just above Martigny we pop out of the maze of gorgeous little tracks, fantastic vistas and some, sometimes, interesting riding.:wink::wink:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1138.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1139.jpg

High time again to top up the oil on the Beemers…the Bike Shop wasn’t too happy... rather, outright grumpy…. for us to do the job outside their shopfront (no dribbles!).

Who cares…the bikes are topped up, a few other small bits fixed, too.
Digging out the itinerary, there are the details for a BnB in Brigerbad, one of the many addresses I’d dug on the Net.

“5 adults? Sorry, can’t help…4’s fine, not 5…hmmmm, hang on…just call me back in 10 min, will you?” Ahhh, German…makes things a hell of a lot easier speaking the language fluently… even though, this being the Swiss version of it and I have to concentrate.
“Sure can !”
….
….
“Yes, my sister in law has space, here’s her address, she’s only around the corner from us…I already let her know, that was ok??”
PERFECT!!:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1140.jpg

The next 2 hours are a PAIN-IN-THE-ARSE commute-style ride, competing with the local traffic (and loads of tractors with trailers full of crates of freshly harvested grapes).

The going is slow…towns are only a few km’s apart and there seem to be an extraordinary amount of wine pressing plants…the sweet-sour smell of early fermentation is enough to knock one off the bike…just passing by!:wow:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1141.jpg

It’s easy enough to find the place…after some asking around. :bs

Monika is already waiting with a warm and hearty welcome.
The house and garden are a little heaven, which even includes a BBQ , a covered sitting area with table and chairs and the whole place is just bursting with flowers.
It’s a complete 2br holiday flat with kitchen and everything one could ask for… therefore, we’ll get our own stuff for breakfast.
But at 85SFR/ A$85 it’s still dirtcheap…ok, it’s low season, but still…couldn’t get a cabin on a Caravan Park in AUS for that! Not for 5 people!!

Once More…JACKPOT!! :doh: :so:so
As the heat finally bleeds out of the day, we walk through the vineyards to a small restaurant down the road…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1142.jpg

…where some outstanding tucker is on offer. Again, at very reasonable prices.

As adventurous as the 3 Piccolini have grown in regards to food and drink over the last week…they DO baulk at the horse steaks Goodie and I are having.
And those are just SENSATIONAL !! :clap: :chug:

After having a tiny taste each, they wished they’d….nahhh, more tomorrow on that.:woot::woot::wink:

There’s another highlight-day in the wings…if the weather holds up.:???:

motorradrudi
10-11-2007, 05:23 PM
Rudi from the Alpenbiker Forum had suggested to turn off the main pass at Semblancher, only 10km short of Martigny... using the tiny Col des Planches and Col du Tronc to drop into the Rhone Valley at Saxon…a sort of a shortcut-with-a-twist. And bloody oath, there is more than one of those !! :glu:glu

What a fantastic area :eek::so:so…one could spent a whole day on those little dirt roads…

The pics looks like you enjoy it! :bs:bs:bs


And we just about to, finding out that the road is closed 1km short of Saxon due to some bridge repairs.

That's a good reason for doing it again! :clap::clap::clap:

Best greatings from a winterwonderland!
Since yesterday there are nearly 20 oder 25 cm Snow falling down the valley - in the mointains a lot more! It's winter in Bavaria!

Rudi

glitch
10-11-2007, 07:37 PM
The pics looks like you enjoy it! :bs:bs:bs
That's a good reason for doing it again!
Best greatings from a winterwonderland!
Since yesterday there are nearly 20 oder 25 cm Snow falling down the valley - in the mointains a lot more! It's winter in Bavaria!

Rudi

Snow around your area? This time of year? Isn't that a bit early?

Yo....the Col de Planches/ Tronc area...SUPERB ! :so:so
If we ever get anywhere near it again...it's a definite!

glitch
11-11-2007, 02:01 PM
And it does !! :so:so

More sunshine and blue skies as we chew our “home-made” breakfast.
Down the Wallis a little, through Brig, we follow the signs to Zermatt. Only a short ride, TT has decided to dink it with Tim on the 1150RT into Tasch, the small town about 10km before Zermatt.

Zermatt is right at the end of the valley at the very foot of the Matterhorn, the mountain that is somewhat synonymous with Switzerland as a whole.
At nearly 4500m high, it’s a majestic peak, proliferated through chocolate wrappers and advertising photos.

The town itself is “car-free”, only horse-drawns and electro-carts are allowed (always have been).
It’s also been a magnet for anything and anyone drawn to the European Alps over the last 200 years or so.
We park the 4 bikes at Schaller’s Garage, one of a few transport mobs that offer parking space and transport to Zermatt by mini-bus (the train is an alternative).

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1201.jpg

It’s a walking day today; the bikes are only used for the 50km each-way-transport...

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1202b.jpg

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The walk through town…the Sunegga “funi” is the target

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1202j.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1202k.jpg

A short “funi”-trainride later and things look totally different !!
Holy cow, have a look at THAT !! :so:wow::so:wow:

Views are breathtaking, all of a sudden we’re, sort-of, amongst those huge piles of rock and glaciers. At least a lot closer…and that makes for a whole different “feel”.
While the heights are liberating, the scenery is also intimidating…it’s just massive!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1203.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1203c.jpg

We slowly walk the half-hour across to Findln, the former summer grazing ground for the Zermatt farmers and their dairy cows…today it’s a bit more touristy, with various small huts and restaurants offering snacks and drinks.
But there’s still a lot of the atmosphere left that “put in on the map” in the first place.
A cosy, cuddly place…cradled by massive mountains and starting point for 1000s of ice-climbs over the centuries.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1204.jpg

Let’s enjoy the place… and take our time.:)

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1205.jpg

And here’s a real one!! A lucky shot…those buggers are lightning-fast.:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1206.jpg

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http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1214.jpg

Spellbound…again !!

No surprise that the Matterhorn has become such a popular sight…the shape of the mountain is magnetic.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1215.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1216.jpg

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A “Shoemaker’s Nail”…one of the Enzian family

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1220.jpg

Nailed to a shed-door…., how the hell did THAT get here??:eek::eek:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1221.jpg

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http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1233a.jpg

An Akja…the only way to get injured folks off the mountains before choppers appeared on the scene….the modern version is still used today in bad weather when the whirlybirds can’t fly or access is too difficult.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1234.jpg

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glitch
11-11-2007, 02:09 PM
The place is fascinating and it’s holding us captured.:wow::so

We don’t really want to walk down through the larch forest into Zermatt, but…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1239.jpg

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Near one of the restaurants, Tim finds this and HAS to have a go…:bs:bs

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1242.jpg

Rack-‘n-pinion railways…a way of life in Switzerland.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1243.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1244.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1247.jpg

We’re shuffling back through Zermatt, nobody wants this to end…:doh:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1248.jpg

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http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1252.jpg

Someone's watching...a puppet stuck to the railing. :eek::looney:
Looked damn real from below, though...

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1253.jpg

A few random impressions on the way back…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1257.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1258.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1259.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1260.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1261.jpg

We pick up the bikes in Tasch and tootle down-valley, heads and hearts full of a glorious day “UP THERE”!!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1262.jpg

Recognizing the name, there’s a little voice in my head…Rudi from Alpenbiker!!
“..in Stalden, tiny road up to Toerbel, …keep going even when it looks that the road ends…across the Moosalp, road drops through Zerneggen back into Brig…it’s a GEM!!”
Let’s give it a whirl, he was dead-right with the Col de Planches yesterday…:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1263.jpg

And up it goes…UP…MAJOR UP!!!…
Man, what a screamer!! Pillion-TT is holding on for dear life as Tim scrapes the 1150RT through the tight stuff…and keeps the camera rolling!:so:bs
There should be some prime video footage of those 15 mins-of-sparks and wonderment…I’ll You-Tube it ASAP.
Not many pics, this one caught us by total surprise…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1265.jpg

Quite a popular place with the locals…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1266.jpg

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http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1270.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1271.jpg

...down towards Zerneggen, I’ve got the Tim-Doublepack in the mirrors….
Arms flailing, high-beam flashing…????
Bloody jokers, they’re having me on, putting on a floorshow like that!!!

Tim tries to overtake, TT is standing on the rear pegs, arms flailing wildly, shouting that even I can hear it under the helmet…then they drop back, come close again, drop back…kiss my arse, ya mugs, I’m not falling for that.

You wanna overtake…? … work for it.:bs

My old shitbox is past it limits, hopping and bucking the narrow single-laner, no suspension to speak of, compression lockups before every bend…one learns to ride around the shortcomings…

The front tyre had worn into an angular cone-shape…the centre was still showing some thread, the sides were nearly down to the canvas…never seen a tyre worn like that…but the road is dry and the flip-flopping quick, so there’s enough “stick” in the front-end.

The 2 jokers just don’t quit and finally I pull over.
“ Mate!!…your bloody rear-light cluster is about to fall off, it’s dangling by it’s cable!!”
Oh shit !! Tim was game getting THAT close at times…if the damn thing would’ve let go, he’d run straight over it.
We shove the cluster back into it’s place, duct-tape does the rest…she’ll go tomorrow anyway, the planned bike- exchange in Martigny hasn’t been cancelled by Renato yet…

Getting back home, there's Ernst sorting and cleaning the spuds for the coming winter..

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1272.jpg

…he’s still got time for one of those with us:so:clap:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1273.jpg

The day ends at the same eating-place as yesterday…and without even looking at the menu:
“3 horse-steaks please !!! …and Pete/ Goodie, what are you having tonight??”
Bloody Picolinis !!

Zermatt and the Matterhorn…another dream’s come true…:glu:glu:glu

motorradrudi
11-11-2007, 05:37 PM
Hi Pete,

first of all: ab big http://www.alpenbiker.eu/images/smilies/umarmen.gif for sharing this story with us!

Many thanks!

second: For me Zermatt is the most beautiful place in the whole alps!
The mainroad - very busy, but leaving it - you're thinking of being in a small Wallis village! Simply wonderful!
Then the landscape around! :glu:glu:glu
You couldn't believe what you see! http://www.alpenbiker.eu/images/smilies/smilietop.GIFhttp://www.alpenbiker.eu/images/smilies/smilietop.GIFhttp://www.alpenbiker.eu/images/smilies/smilietop.GIF
One picture-postcard follows another!

third: The Mossalp - another beautiful side of this area! And the road up and down to this place simply a dream!

So I can share you're impressions of that places!

Beste greatings from Germany
Rudi

glitch
11-11-2007, 07:02 PM
Hi Pete,
second: For me Zermatt is the most beautiful place in the whole alps!
The mainroad - very busy, but leaving it - you're thinking of being in a small Wallis village! Simply wonderful!
One picture-postcard follows another!



Ain't that the truth !!
It's a magical place...the pics just can't do it justice :wow::wow::so
Glad to hear you're enjoying the story:chug::chug:

omi
11-11-2007, 07:14 PM
Hallo Goodie ! Thanks for your response. But no thank you to me-----this whole tour gives me soooooo much fun and excitement. Even I don't know every Col and place especially in France, there are so many places I'm familiar with, have been there long ago.
It is just fantastic for me to read it all and on top the pics----.I cant wait for Switzerland, which has been ,for long years of our family life, the second home in winter and sommer. Love omi

glitch
12-11-2007, 10:04 AM
Some cirrus-clouds are sticking their hooks into the blue skies as it’s time to say goodbyes to Ernst and Monika.
First some quick repairs though…friggin thing!…fallen off again. :eek::rolleyes:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1301.jpg

Yesterdays quick fix…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1303.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1304.jpg

The Tornantis… Left-to-right:
Goodie, Karel, Pete, TimTim (TT/ Tassie-Tim) and “regular” Tim

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1305.jpg

“Could we??” Sure, hop on!:so:so
Look at THOSE faces !!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1306.jpg

Down valley, towards Martigny...

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1306a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1306b.jpg

Finally… the meet-up with Renato came good. The 2 fresh GS12s…:glu

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1307.jpg

Suitably blessed by “Father Karel”:bs

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1307a.jpg

Along the shores of Lake Geneva

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1307b.jpg

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…to the famous Chateau Chillon, a small castle built into the lake on a rocky outcrop.

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One of the locals…who didn’t mind the hot sun

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1318.jpg

Montreux…just a few k’s up the road

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1319.jpg

Swiss Autobahn along the shores to Geneva…(tolls apply)

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…and the train, right along the shore…yep, space is at a premium around here :eek:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1322.jpg

The bike-swap has taken an extra couple of hours, it’s the weekend and it’s busy on the roads leading into the countryside.

No chance to take the “new” 17.000km old GS12 through its paces…but BOY, doesn’t it feel good to sit on a bike , rather than a shitheap!
Still...after all the "arguments" I'd somehow started to become attached to the old girl... :wink:

We tack north from Montreux towards the medieval town of Gruyere, roads are smooth and easy, the going would be quick if it wouldn’t be for the traffic.

We’re way too late and there are some solid clouds rolling in from the northwest…the front is moving in quickly.
We have to skip Gruyere, only flying past, bummer…looping to Chateau d’Oex on our way to the Gstaad area.
Just up the road is Rougemont, the last of the French-speaking area around here, 5km later we’re into the German-speaking part of the country….it’s all a bit baffling, things change so fast.

The landscape has softened out to gently rolling hills, lushly-green carpeted with the occasional “pile-of-rock” as a backdrop.
Checking ahead for accommodation, the first port of call turns out quite expensive…BnB for SFR75/ A$75 each/ night…add dinner to that at around 25-40 Francs/ A$ each, then drinks. Hmmmph...
…the next place on our list has shut down a year ago, it’s an apartment building now…the number pings a hairdresser in town...:(
Not looking too good so far :rolleyes:

Let’s climb back onto the bikes and go up the road a bit…all I’ve got left is a number for the Youth Hostel in Saanen, not far off.

Up a couple of twisties to Schonried then…the first couple of joints prove to be “Wellness-Centres”… who needs a bloody mudpack and some lily-blossom-tea, or whatever the latest is :eek::rolleyes:
…then we spy the Hotel Kernen.
Just looking at the place :drool:, I don’t really wanna wrangle open that 3”thick carved timber door…this is going to hurt.:whistle:

It’s one of those old-style-Swiss-Hotelerie places…everything conservative, yet modern…stock- traditional… and decidedly classy.
And looking at the clouds outside, we’ll need something for more than one night…
“Yep, 2 doubles/ twins and a single…it’s 47/ night each with breakfast”
Helloooo?? Sounds damn good to me…”How about half-board?” …(an option that includes the house-menu for dinner).
After some talk we’ve got that down to 30SFR/A$ each…if we stay for 3 nights!!
Taking a punt on that point, the deal is struck. :chug:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1323.jpg

We’re moving in !!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1324.jpg

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NOICE, eh? :glu

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1327.jpg

Everything is as I’d judged the place from the outside…
Dinner comes around, I just LOVE that salad-bar…and the cheese-platter, Jeezaz, what a feast for the eyes alone…
Most other houseguests already seem to be there, quiet talk, elderly couples all dressed for the occasion…and here are 5 Aussie bike-bums in jeans and T-shirts.
Talk about feeling UNDER-DRESSED and OVER-EXPOSED !! :lollol::lollol:
We juuust don’t quite fit in…:wow:
But…let them worry about it, the tucker’s first class.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1328.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1329.jpg

Then the owner shows up…”I’m sorry, but…the girl at the reception HAS told you that the room price is in Euros??!!”
Awkward silence…
“Noooooo….”
“Well, sorry, but…”

What the hell…it just makes it a round 100 Aussie-bux/ night with Breakfast and 5-course menu…if they don’t mind the T-shirts, WE’RE STAYING !! :bs
(to be honest, I had wondered, though…it just sounded way to cheap for what it turned out to be)

Prost !!

FUTURE.
12-11-2007, 08:09 PM
Truly amazing photos. Love the country side and roads...

I am green with envy.

omi
12-11-2007, 08:24 PM
cant wait for the next page Omi

glitch
13-11-2007, 04:53 PM
I am green with envy.
Make that green/ white?? MZ colours? :wink::lol:

glitch
13-11-2007, 04:58 PM
The Swiss cable channel promises good weather for most of the day…clear, in fact…before yesterday’s front is supposed to ‘bite” through the late afternoon and crap thereafter

Looks like a big one’s coming :( and we might be sailing a bit close to the wind, if we try for the Jungfraujoch, a place where one HAS to have good weather, otherwise it’s not worth the bundle-of-Francs it costs to get up there.

Schonried in the morning…let’s give it whirl! :so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1401.jpg

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Down the Simmen Valley to Spiez at Lake Thun

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1404.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1405.jpg

…then it’s slow going along the lake towards Interlaken if one wants to avoid the Autobahn (toll stickers are needed, no day-passes)
There’s a bypass around Interlaken sneaking into the Lauterbrunnen Valley…and hoohhhh, what a place! :wow::wow:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1406.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1407.jpg

It looks like someone chopped out the valley with an axe…and waterfalls gushing over the edges, free-falling onto the valley-ground. :wow:

There’s water here…. everywhere…. LOTS of it !! It’s gurgling and roaring, flowing and foaming…crystal-clear to dark-green…and it’ll be with us for the rest of the trip!!!
We use the park-house in Lauterbrunnen, despite the sign advising otherwise :whistle:…then take the rack-and-pinion railways up the steep slope to Wengen.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1408.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1410.jpg

From here it’s up to the Mannlichen with the cable car, Tim’s turning green at the thought alone…:bs

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1411.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1409.jpg

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Anti-avalanche bracing

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1413.jpg

Tim’s made it, we’re at the top…. well, for now…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1415.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1414.jpg

And there it is!!!! The A W E S O M E THREESOME!!


Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau !! (Eiger, Monk and Virgin)
Deep breath…. then look around. It’s abso-bloody-lutely STUMPING!!!
(I don’t know who did that shot…but centre it on the screen and look at it for a few seconds….THAT’S exactly how it feels up here…right NOW !!







http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1417.jpg








http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1418.jpg

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http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1422.jpg

After all we’ve seen so far…THIS hits us like a brick! :glu:glu

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1423.jpg

Let’s keep walking the few k’s across to the Kleine Scheidegg…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1424.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1425.jpg

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http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1428.jpg

Amongst many others, there was an early Clint Eastwood movie made here,
“The North Face”, a thriller about 2 climbing crews vying for supremacy on the infamous Eiger North Face….a dream-destination for serious climbers the world over.
And it keeps costing lives every year…:(

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1429.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1430.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1431.jpg

Kleine Scheidegg…”mid-station” for the Jungfraujoch-Railway and base-camp to the climbing-crews.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1432.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1433.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1434.jpg

The railway climbs from here just behind the face of, and inside, the mountain up to the Jungfraujoch. There are 2 stops along the way… big windows, partially iced up, are part of “the wall”…they’re also starting points for rescue-climbs to extract stricken climbers or whole climbing-crews, if needed. “The Wall” is to steep for choppers…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1435.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1436.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1437.jpg

glitch
13-11-2007, 05:06 PM
And if the walk from Mannlichen made us speechless, this…THIS…is complete and utter OVERLOAD! :glu:glu:glu:glu

On top of the “Roof of Europe”…3500mhigh.

At the Jungfraujoch…the Aletsch-glacier, it dips south towards the Wallis (Upper Rhone Valley), near where we were a couple of days ago…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1438.jpg

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http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1444.jpg

Crossing to the other side via “Iceworld”

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1445.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1446.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1447.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1448.jpg

…and right up-top….some mob doing a photoshoot!! Oh man….were those cameras smoking ??? :bs:bs

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1449.jpg

TT making SURE it’s IN THE CAN!!:clap:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1450.jpg

It IS !! :so:so:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1451.jpg

We have a go ourselves…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1451a.jpg

Slowly…very slowly…the promised weather front creeps in…let’s bath in the moment for as long as it lasts…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1453.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1454.jpg

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The International Research Station

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1459.jpg










http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1462.jpg

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Eventually it’s time to leave…. back to the Kleine Scheidegg first, by which time half the carriage is asleep. So it’s not just input-overload for a bunch of Aussies…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1466.jpg

TT does some impromptu sketches on the fogged-up window, much to the delight of those who’re still awake…the kids. :so:chug:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1467.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1468.jpg

The first drops…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1469.jpg

The roads are wet…the boom gate of the park-house doesn’t open at first (sensors not sensitive enough to detect lighter bikes…Tim has to roll the RT back and forth to get us out :bs)…and we leave in the low, grey drizzle.

Who cares, 70k’s is nothing…and after a day like that.... pffffffft.
Not far though, and things dry out for a smooth run along Lake Thun and up the Simmen Valley.
But it’s BLACK up there…the clouds chase us home.

With everyone knowing the way home up the valley… I can let loose on the GS12, the first decent run the 2 of us are having together and it’s a peg-scratching good time.
What a close to a truly INCREDIBLE day….:so:so:so
Barely closing the door behind us, the world disappears in a sheet of water…

Goodie discovers the “courtesy”- laptop…but only ‘til dinner, there’s another 5course menu waiting… :doh::chug::chug:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1470.jpg

YEAAAHHH …it’s TOUGH…but who better to do it than ....US!! :so:so:so:so:so

loz
13-11-2007, 06:52 PM
OK let's talk more about the snow-boobies chick.

I'd keep THAT warm!

http://idhitit.org/gallery/general058.jpg

http://idhitit.org/gallery/general077.jpg

FUTURE.
13-11-2007, 06:58 PM
Make that green/ white?? MZ colours? :wink::lol:

:chug: The MuZ would love those roads. Those a breathtaking photos. I so want to go there. When I retire maybe..

glitch
13-11-2007, 07:53 PM
:chug: The MuZ would love those roads. Those a breathtaking photos.

Of course she would....she was 'born" there. :wink:

Hytram
13-11-2007, 08:17 PM
I dunno which vehicle I would like to do the Alps in....

ahhh bugger it..both

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0Y-9VCpfS8

motorradrudi
13-11-2007, 08:18 PM
Hi Pete,

a wonderful place there - but very very expensive!

The pics - fantastic!
(and that woman ... :whistle:)

I know this area very well!
The Lauterbrunnen-valley, Grindelwald, Lake Thun and Brienz and and and ...
a world to dream of!

But I've never been at the Jungfraujoch because it's still too expensive - but I understand, that it's a MUST DO for you holiday!

Beste greatings from Germany
Rudi

omi
13-11-2007, 08:18 PM
Hi Pitti and Mock. What another glorious day. I re-live it with your pics.
It's been a beautiful part of my life and i'm moved to tears---not sad, no --- because of the beauty. I never loose it. Thanks !! And this for the junior Member Future :
Never wait till you retire. It could be toooooo late.. Omi

glitch
13-11-2007, 09:36 PM
I never loose it. Thanks !!

I know...:wink:


Never wait till you retire. It could be toooooo late.. Omi

You taught us well !!:bs

FUTURE.
14-11-2007, 04:46 AM
............... And this for the junior Member Future :
Never wait till you retire. It could be toooooo late.. OmiIt's called lack of money to do it right now... :oops:

I will have a bit of a ride to share with you all in the next few months. Nothing like the one we see in this thread but still it will be very challenging. :so

glitch
14-11-2007, 08:29 AM
I will have a bit of a ride to share with you all in the next few months. Nothing like the one we see in this thread but still it will be very challenging. :so

Sounds great, keep 'em coming :so

glitch
14-11-2007, 08:36 AM
And after 2 weeks on the road, 2 weeks of glorious weather and and dry asphalt (and still no sunburn…).... our luck had finally turned.

But then, it'd held to shove yesterday’s Crown-day into the bag :so:so…perhaps it’s time for an "enforced" rest-day to chew through things, settle down a little and somehow create a little more space in minds and hearts for the days to come…

Nothing wrong with riding in the wet…but we don’t have to be anywhere, get somewhere…we’re here to enjoy the whole lot, and a big part of that is the scenery, the views.
Of which there are none when the clouds are scraping their bellies along the valley-floors.
Why not slip back into our walking gear and do things on foot…slowly winding our way through the rolling, green paddocks into Gstaad, have a look around there, then take the train back up to Schonried in the afternoon?

Get some postcards….a new mobile phone for Tim…have a coffee and buy some cheese/ bread for lunch…
Let see what there is along the way…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1501.jpg

Even the rubbish bins have their own “chalet”:eek:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1502.jpg

Never far from a train here...

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1503.jpg

Yes, they still built ‘em like that…shingle roofs and timber guttering…
And everything is built for eternity, massive timbers everywhere.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1504.jpg

House-entrance built into the hill :eek::eek:, garage next door. The access to the house above will be via a tunnel and possibly lift up to the house.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1505.jpg

Typical Bernese High Country

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1506.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1507.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1507a.jpg

TT….always full of it :bs:bs

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1508.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1509.jpg

Try to pronounce the word at the top….:so:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1510.jpg

Trundling into Gstaad

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1511.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1512.jpg

Gstaad…resort town of the Rich and Famous…the “New Money”.
“Old Money’s” got its quarters in St. Moritz, Zermatt and Arosa…

The Palace Gstaad ( http://www.palace.ch/en/gstaad-palace/ )…A$1000/ night/ double….and WE thought we’re living it up :wow::wow:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1513.jpg

Let’s have a snoop around town…of course it’s lunchtime and nearly everything’s shut…during skiseason, this place is jammed!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1514.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1515.jpg

A WOT ??? A Smart ??:wow:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1516.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1517.jpg

Gstaad Photoshop…Hey, I know that logo!!! That’s CRUMPLER Bags, Stoo’s company!! Bags made in Ballarat !! :chug: Hi mate! :chug:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1518.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1519.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1520.jpg

The butcher shop on the corner…there’s a crane in the lane besides the building to hoist the deliveries from the trucks into the back room

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1521.jpg

Random impressions…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1522.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1523.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1524.jpg

Sure !! 50cc turbo-stroker…:bs:bs

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1525.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1526.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1527.jpg

Here’s another oddball :eek:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1528.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1529.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1530.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1531.jpg

Gstaad Station

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1532.jpg

Public phonebox…keypad for SMS and online banking included

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1533.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1534.jpg

Back in Schoenried… Tim’s RT’s got a busted Speedo cable

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1535.jpg

Pretty, aye?? :bs Didn’t last for 20 Mins, though…..:oops::oops:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1536.jpg

It’s been a good day…and despite not soaring across the passes, not gazing at glaciers in silent awe…we’ve seen a lot.
There's peace and laughter in the camp....it's great to be on the road with mates !!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1537.jpg

glitch
15-11-2007, 02:41 PM
Well, that’s it !!!
Enough of this “Living-it-up-in fine-Hotels”…back to the Biker-slums!!:eek::eek:

We’re leaving, despite the shonky wether forecast for the next few days…snowfall down to 1500m!
There’s a slight drizzle out there…let’s hit brecky first, though…
“The eggs are raw” ….boil your own!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1601.jpg

We could live with THAT every morning!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1602.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1603.jpg

Just on the road for 5 mins on the way down-valley to Zweisimmen, the rear-brake of the GS locks on up it’s own…a second of warning as the engine “felt gooey” on the gas…then the sucker locks up solid just after I’d overtaken a tractor. :glu:glu

Brown moment indeed!…
Letting things cool down, the backwheel spins free gain. The rear-brake reservoir was overfilled and the venting hole blocked…using the rear-brake for trailbraking, the fluid heated up until it has nowhere to go but jam the brake pads to the disc.

That sorted, the drizzle stopped along the way to Interlaken…. clouds still low, though.
A huge, old shed has turned into a massive $2-store… and we’re going shopping.
Some nick-nacks, a new fleecy-top for myself, as I forgot to pack the old one a few days back and things are definitely getting a bit cooler from here.

A little further east to Meiringen and Innertkirchen, more drizzle had turned to rain and the signs proclaimed the Grimsel and Susten Passes as still open…with snowchains!! Arghhh…. :mad::(
No Andermatt then, the base for one of the worlds-best Pass-Smorgasboards.
The 2 Tims wanna give it a crack and return a few hours later to our stay (once more thanks to Rudi/ Alpenbiker)

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1637.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1638.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1639.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1640.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1641.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1642.jpg

…the Simons Herberge in Meiringen.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1603a.jpg

Karel, Goodie and I go straight back to Meiringen, settle things there, then get out to walk the Gorge of the Aare….ohhhh YEAH!! :glu:glu

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1604.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1605.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1606.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1607.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1608.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1609.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1610.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1611.jpg

Holy Mackerel, what a place!!:clap::clap:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1612.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1614.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1615.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1616.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1617.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1619.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1618.jpg

The water roars through the narrows, the tunnels of the footpaths act as amplifiers…it’s deafening!!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1625.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1620.jpg

The narrows widen a little, the noise of the foaming avalanche of water is still incredible

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1621.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1622.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1623.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1624.jpg

Unbelievable to imagine that war was fought even in this narrow crack of the mountains, but defensive tunnels were blasted into the opposite rockface to house up to 180 men and supplies. Who the hell would try to take a dinghy down THAT one??

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1626.jpg

Old ammo box… which holds sand to be used on those timber boards on icy mornings…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1627.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1628.jpg

glitch
15-11-2007, 02:44 PM
Tornantis…even here!! :cool:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1629.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1630.jpg

It’s life clinging to precariously little to survive

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1631.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1632.jpg

The exit of the gorge…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1632a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1632b.jpg

Choose the train or bus back to Meiringen from here…. we’re too overwhelmed to let the chance of the return-walk slip by…we’ll walk.:drool:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1633.jpg

That’s ONE way to fix it…. holes through the bonnet, wingnuts hold the plate.
Strange we never saw a new Merc or Beemer with that arrangement…:whistle::whistle:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1635.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1636.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1644.jpg

The bunch meets up again for a walk through town…where the street-markets are on.

Pushie-garage at the local train-stop :so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1643.jpg

Another highlight is the initially hesitant visit to the local Meiringen "Latterie", the dairy....which finishes up in a frantic ram-raid of the Yoghurt and Quark shelves :bs...while part of the crew stands outside and greedily plastic-spoons another tub of hazelnut-yoghurt, the rest's inside... plucking apart and re-sorting the offerings...
this stuff is MAGIC !!

QuarK?? Wtf is that? It's a sort of creamed cottage cheese type of stuff....thicker than Yoghurt and not as sour...mix that with fruit or the mentioned hazelnut/ vanilla flavours and the eyes just roll back in their sockets :so:so:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1645.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1646.jpg

Handy for folks with young kids….you always know where they are, they can’t run away and after the first 30 Mins they’re stuffed and ready for bed.
Ohhhhh yeah, those Swiss got it sorted !!:so:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1647.jpg

...and there goes Tims old Tour-jumper, frazzled bits and all.
Years worth of touring miles in that one!! :wow::wow:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1648.jpg

It starts drizzling again as we snuggle in and pull our blankets tight…it’s snowing up the top!!
:wow:

FUTURE.
15-11-2007, 04:55 PM
I see fog in those photos. I fear fog. Only thing when riding that does scare me.

Yes the MuZ misses the twisties during weekdays.

motorradrudi
15-11-2007, 05:12 PM
Hi Pete,

the snow on the Grimsel and the other ones on this round - it's a pity!
If you wanna see how it looks normaly, then look at this (http://www.motorradrudi.info/Schweiz-2007-Fotos.205+M55890463a8c.0.html) and this (http://www.motorradrudi.info/Schweiz-2007-Fotos.205+M50616cec958.0.html)!:upyrs:
(klick on the pics for a bigger size!)
But I know, that you've done it a vew days later! :clap::clap::clap:


The Aaregorge is a well known place for me. I've been there at several times - it looks simply wonderful!

Beste Greatings from the winter-wonderland-Allgäu!
In the valley we have nearly 20 cm snow! And one skilift has open since last week. A vew more will open on the next weekend! :bang:

Cheers
Rudi

glitch
15-11-2007, 05:39 PM
The Aaregorge is a well known place for me. I've been there at several times - it looks simply wonderful!

Beste Greatings from the winter-wonderland-Allgäu!
In the valley we have nearly 20 cm snow! And one skilift has open since last week. A vew more will open on the next weekend! :bang:
Cheers
Rudi

It sure is a stunning place...the roar of the water, the dark tunnels :drool:
That much snow now at your level !!
That doesn't happen all THAT often, does it? Certainly not this time of year...

motorradrudi
15-11-2007, 06:47 PM
That much snow now at your level !!
That doesn't happen all THAT often, does it? Certainly not this time of year...

Not very often but two years ago the winter began at the 20st of november and the snow didn't go untill the mid of april!!!:bang:

Hope it's not the same this year!

Best greatings
Rudi

glitch
16-11-2007, 08:14 AM
:( The clouds haven’t lifted much, the mood is down.:(

Pretty obvious that there would’ve been more fresh snow overnight and Meiringen is decidedly looking like a trap.
Susten and Grimsel passes will be closed, the only way open is back towards Lake Brienz and Interlaken…the direction we came from.
The gamble of moving eastwards hasn’t paid off thus far…but there’s another way across the gap to the north, past Lake Sarner to Lake Vierwaldstatter.

It’s a long and sometimes heated discussion after brecky ….letting go of the planned rollercoaster of passes around Andermatt hurts, but hanging around for another day is a crappy option (apart from yet another romp through the yoghurt and quark shelves of the Meiringen Dairy).

The lady of the house explains “the mystic door” to us as we kit up and slip into wets in the ski-cellar…
Apparently every house in Switzerland has to have a bombproof :eek::eek: emergency shelter… with an appropriate door, of course (the bloody thing weighs half a ton and needs nearly 2 sets of hands and shoulders to move).

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1701.jpg

A quick blurt to Innertkirchen and the start of the Susten Pass …there’s a little bit of hope, but NO…it’s open, but snowchains needed… back to Meiringen and north then.
The “Marching Out” Parade: :so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1702.jpg

Climbing the wet twisties and hairpins into the grey muck, things don’t look too cheerful…a day of “commuting” towards the Montafon Valley in Austria and the Silvretta High Alps Road.
A bit of a forlorn hope…the weather seems to sit solidly over a big patch of the Alps, no idea if a further “jump” east will get us out of it.
A glimmer…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1703.jpg

Hey….not too bad !!! Lake Lungern…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1704.jpg

Bit of a schlippery one here and there…:wow:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1705.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1706.jpg

Does this mean….???

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1707.jpg

Naw…it was just a fluke! Waiting for the ferry to cross to the North Shore of Lake Vierwaldstatter…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1708.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1709.jpg

We turn south at Brunnen for the approach to the Klausen Pass at Altdorf.
At first, things seem to clear a little…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1711.jpg

Just a bit up the road things turn white… and big grey clouds race across the landscape… ragged, white blankets crawling out of the saddles of rock.
It’s getting cold again…fingers numb despite the heated grips on FULL.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1716.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1713.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1714.jpg

And up and up it goes …

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1715.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1712.jpg




Winter isn’t that far off…:eek:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1717.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1718.jpg

glitch
16-11-2007, 08:16 AM
The other side looks pretty much the same :cool:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1719.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1720.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1721.jpg

Past Lake Walensee to Sargans, up north a bit through Vaduz/ Lichtenstein to Feldkirch/ Austria, then another tack southeast into the Montafon Valley.
Time to look around for a place to stay…and more prayers, that the clouds will lift, no more snow overnight please….for the run up the Bieler Hohe and out to Landeck.

We stop at a big 3-Star Hotel next to the main road in St. Gallenkirch and check for beds. No probs, but a little above our price-range. I walk out again to pass on the news to “the troups”…and Goodie shoots off up the hill for a bit more scouting.
She doesn’t come back! :???::???:
Hell, time to check! Running up the hill, the small road splits into 2, then another 3 tiny side-roads leading further up the hill.
In front of a small restaurant, the “Strudelwirtin” , I’m lost for decisions of where to search first…
A new Range Rover comes down one of the roads: “OI!!!” and a waving hand out of the wound-down window…:so
Goodie’s grinning face: “Got it!!… just go up here till you see the 650, we’ll get the others”.

By chance she’d walked into some place displaying the “Zimmer frei” (rooms vacant) sign we’d seen so often…. found Hanni and Walter, a biker-couple….checked the rooms and nailed things right away.:chug:

What a great place, cosy rooms, warm and friendly folks and plenty of space to spread out. And just as the receptionist of the 3-Star joint had decided to walk across to the rest of the waiting bunch with a better offer than first quoted…
One of the 50 Sky-channels promises more bad weather and snowfalls for the coming night, shiat !!!
Walter comes good with some tools to adjust the chain on the 650 and for trying to fix the leaking BMW- topbox.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1722.jpg

For dinner it was a short walk down the hill to the “Strudelwirtin”, the place I’d stopped at earlier.

Welll, what a surprise !! :wow:

Another great place, more friendly folks and a “table-keg” for the 5 of us !! Make that 2 !! 2 kegs of home-brewed, that is. Yep…brewed right here !
Tim…. after we’d been through the 1. keg…:bs

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1724.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1725.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1726.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1727.jpg

On the house !! Also home-brewed !

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1728.jpg

Afterwards we felt as stuffed as that other local around here…the Marmot

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1729.jpg

It’d turned out a damn good day in the end and again, it was the people we met who made it that way.
Our first pass in the snow (ok, both Tim’s had tried for the Grimsel Pass a couple of days ago but had to quit short of the top), a ferry ride and some more sensational tucker that night…the beer was just superb, the Schnapps afterwards was the finishing “blow”….

“…just think of the poor suckers at home!” :lollol::lollol:

“Who gives a shit?…Prost!”:bs


:chug::chug:

glitch
16-11-2007, 10:39 AM
It’s been an incredible journey up to now…the Alps have given us their ABSOLUTE BEST.
The folks met along the way have been a genuine inspiration and hesitation to approach them because of lack of language skills has entirely worn off…

As sensational as what the riding part has been, just about every other aspect of the time-on-the-road has been just as strong,…if not even more impressive!

Leaving Europe with a different mindset when in my mid-20s, I’d come to love Australia and all it’s quirks that make it what it is…now I 'd started to realize, how much there is in Europe. And the Alps are the “joining seam” of so many different countries, cultures, customs, foods, building styles and character-sets…

At the same time, it’s easy to forget that all that stumping scenery, the deep valleys, the towering mountains, can make things claustrophobic, hemming in the people who live there.
Add 6 months of snow per year….while looking pretty and awe-inspiring to the short-time tourist, the locals are even more hemmed in, their range of movement and personal freedom cut down by closed roads and the inability to move around freely and at will.

Only of “novelty”-value to us, day17 in Meiringen brought that home in some way, the passes to the south were snowed over, every direction blocked bar going back where we’d come from… or north, where we didn’t really want to go.

Cruising through as a tourist, enjoying everything new and different is one thing, living here is another.
Like most places, I guess….BUT it brought home the endless size of Australia and the ever-present range of movement available at any time.

Coming across Anna, Pascal, Hanni and so many other friendly, welcoming folks along the way has also struck a deep cord…with today’s barrage of mayhem and chaos it's easily forgotten how many genuinely good, decent people there are.

The trip had turned out far beyond my hopes and expectations…it’s been a journey of discovery in many ways, apart from “following the map”.

The Assietta had left an indelible mark…it’d struck some cords buried so deep, I’d never known they were even there.

Another 6000km of the trip and many, many other unforgettable impressions later, I’m still sitting here, writing this, not even looking at the pics…and the WHOLE is instantly around me, all of it, in one hit….living in a bubble of memories so intense, the name alone creates an instant lump in the throat ….everytime.

Perhaps I’m a sentimental old fool….perhaps I’m finally growing up?

Writing it up has meant to experience ALL OF IT once more….another 6 weeks ‘on-the-road”, the laughter, the places, the people, the smells, the emotions….

Writing it up is also taking the same time as riding it again…or rather: It’s taking more time.
While on the road, I didn’t have to describe anything, it was THERE….only see and feel everything.
Much of it, many details, rushed past…but are coming back now.

It’s been a very intense 3 weeks so far, trying to put this together in a way I experienced things, and I’m starting to wear.

4-6hrs/ day on the keyboard are not something I’m accustomed to…and it’s taken away time from everything else around me…like family…or a decent day-ride to get re-acquainted with the Strom...or even order some parts for the WTF650 project?
( http://www.austouring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1455 for that story)

I’ll leave things here for a few days to take a breather…slip back into normal life.
There’s also the German version of this to be brought to the same time-line (I’m currently 8 days behind on that).
So…give me a little time, I’ll be back with more of it and another 6000pics yet to be sorted. :so:so:so

And Jeezaz, there are some corkers in THAT!!

gunner
16-11-2007, 12:26 PM
Thanks Pete,
Have a rest and find some new energy:clap::clap: to give us all the pleasure to read more of these breathtaking Ride.:glu
I know part of these beautiful countrys and it brings back lots of memorys.As you rightfull said you get sentimental. :(:(
Keep it up i loving it

gunner

motorradrudi
16-11-2007, 05:33 PM
Hi Pete,

every pics of your report brings back memories to me, because I've been at the most of the places in the past!

Thank you very much!!!

I know the snow - it's now winter at the Allgäu (look at this short report (http://www.alpenbiker.eu/thread,Der-Winter-ist-da---,2425,,,.html)an see how it looks in Bavaria at the moment!
At the moment most of the passes in the alps are closed!!!

I think you've been lucky, that you could pass the Klausen in the snow!

Best greatings from Sonthofen
Rudi

movin
17-11-2007, 11:08 PM
Just a lazy 6000 pics to go huh:rolleyes:. Thats a lot of memory cards Pete. Amasing photo's. That is a trip of a lifetime, fantastic stuff. Most spectacuar ride and pics I have seen in ages, :gluInspirational stuff:clap:
The structure you ask about-in the 1st page I think it is?- I seem to recall they are ventalation shafts for the giant extractor fans, in the avalanche tunnels and road tunnels that riddle the alps. I recall similar structures in Austria, and asking the locals the same thing. They would just be in the middle of nowhere and look like a secret military concrete bunker or installation.

glitch
18-11-2007, 03:55 PM
Just a lazy 6000 pics to go huh:rolleyes:. Thats a lot of memory cards Pete. Amasing photo's. That is a trip of a lifetime, fantastic stuff. Most spectacuar ride and pics I have seen in ages, :gluInspirational stuff:clap:
The structure you ask about-in the 1st page I think it is?- I seem to recall they are ventalation shafts for the giant extractor fans, in the avalanche tunnels and road tunnels that riddle the alps. I recall similar structures in Austria, and asking the locals the same thing. They would just be in the middle of nowhere and look like a secret military concrete bunker or installation.

Thanks mate...glad you enjoy (and YOU know a good part of it as well, I think?).
Yeah, Rudi mentioned the same...that weird structure, bridge, elevated tunnel/ whatever most likely is part of some extraction/ scrubbing system for one of the long roadtunnels of the Alps...

glitch
26-11-2007, 05:38 PM
The weather front had caught up with us overnight, dammit !! :thun

Walter is a bus-driver….he checks with a colleague, who does the run up the Bieler Hoehe, and yo….it’s all snowed in up there.:doh::wow:

Hanni takes pity on our state of “clean clothes” and puts on a couple of loads, while we’re checking out the town

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1801.jpg

At the tourist office we even find a couple of computers in an upstairs room…free to use and nobody lining up!

One of the locally made tables, unique to this area. Inlaid woodwork with a centre of slate…easy to keep tabs on what the family-members are doing, they just leave a note scribbled on the table. Literally !:so:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1802.jpg

Still the clouds won’t lift…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1803.jpg

Showpiece on our host’s veranda…:clap:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1804.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1805.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1806.jpg

Then it’s off to the sock-fight, sorting though the washing…:bs
Tim and Karel are at it again:
“THOSE are Explorer Socks”
“Bullshit, THOSE are ….”
Postcards, some phone calls with Rudi and home…a bit more bike-fixing before the “Strudelwirtin” opens again, something everyone’s been talking about all afternoon. :glu:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1807.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1808.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1809.jpg

Again, the boss shows up for a yack and some Schnapps…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1810.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1811.jpg

Of course we’ll sign the guest-book !!
After that Schnapps I’d sign TT’s hairy bum…:wink:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1812.jpg

It’s been a quiet day, everyone got their “domestics” sorted, caught up with their diaries…and right at the end, Walter welcomes us back by pronouncing better weather tomorrow and a possible chance to get across the Bieler Hoehe, which should be spectacular with the all the fresh snow!!:woot::woot:

Can’t wait!!!…but thankfully the grog’s doing a thorough job, cloud 9 is right there. See ya in the morning…

glitch
26-11-2007, 05:48 PM
http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1901.jpg

A$17 later…EACH!!:rolleyes::eek:
Doesn’t matter, it’s Austria and well known to charge deftly… for quite a lot of roads.
Who cares, the morning is overcast, the roads are dry, let’s move.:D

Just a few k’s up the road and things are turning as spectacular as hoped for…:glu

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1902.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1903.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1904.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1905.jpg

Then the skies crack open here and there, shafts of light cut into the slopes, it’s like someone switched on a light bulb up there…BRILLIANT !

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1906.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1907.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1908.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1909.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1910.jpg

More careful carving on the way down, the road’s partially wet, the snow melting

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1912.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1913.jpg

Yes, Bikes ARE welcome here….everywhere.:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1914.jpg

Into Landeck in the Inn Valley, the Swiss border is just around the corner

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1915.jpg

Just after exiting Austria, still in “the neutral zone”, there's a road winding it’s way up into one of the high valleys, finishing at the town of Samnaun, one of those weird places in Europe, where the ground belongs to one country, but access and commerce can only be achieved from a neighbouring country….a “tax-free zone”, which provides locals and tourists with a pleasant day out and cheap spirits, chocolate and smokes.
AND it’s a VERY good road, perfect for dragging pegs...:so:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1916.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1917.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1918.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1921.jpg

…and tax-free yoghurt…:rofl:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1919.jpg

“Nightmare-road"...the local warning signs.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1920.jpg

Back down the old road, joining the valley just before the Swiss border control (and since Switzerland is NOT part of the EU, there ARE controls…
Being the first of the bunch I come around a lefthander into a treed area, just after overtaking a line of cars and a bus…and some uniform on the little carpark on the right sticks out his red-blinking soup-ladle…pull over, son!!
Arrggghhh…SHIT !!!:eek::eek::eek:

Ok, things weren’t 100% clean on my part :rolleyes: and some speed was needed to “make it” before the next bend:whistle:…you know, how it goes…squirt-screech-push and shove a little…squirt-screech…push-shove…

“You got anything to declare?”
WOT??? :looney:A declaration of….wot...Independence? :doh:
Explain WHY I had to overtake that bus the way it turned out???:whistle:….yeah, yeah,’twas a bit tight there for a moment but the GS wouldn’t go over anymore without going for a skate…
“ What did you buy in Samnaun?” Ciggies? Grog?
That grin comes right from deep below….Customs !!
“Well guys, go bonkers on the panniers”
NOTHING to declare!!
….or….didn’t Tim and Goodie shove the 2 bottles of Schnapps into my topbox as it was the most empty one at the time??
Hmmm…..

Whatever…I rather pay those duties than what I would’ve faced if those guys would’ve been the ”track marshals”….:oops::oops:
Hitting the main road in the valley, the bunch stands there, waits….and GRINS !!
Arseholes!!:upyrs::upyrs:

glitch
26-11-2007, 05:54 PM
Time to run south east for an hour, along the river Inn and up the Lower Engadin Valley towards St. Moritz.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1922.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1923.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1924.jpg

In Zernez it’s a tack east and up the Ofen Pass crossing through the Swiss National Park, then dropping into the Mustair Valley, with the Italian border closeby.:so

The Ofen Pass proves a nice one…quick, a little technical near Zernez, then the top opens up into long sweepers. Time to give the bikes their head and try to give both Tims some curry…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1926.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1927.jpg

The Mustair valley turns out a little gem:so:so… narrow, single-lane through the small townships, around the house-corners and past the tiny plazas.
It’s a place not greatly spoiled by tourism, the most modern structures are some of the bus-shelters.:wow:

The monastery and little church are well known for their frescoes and medieval artwork…let’s have a look!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1928.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1929.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1930.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1931.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1932.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1933.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1934.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1935.jpg

NO…this isn’t Disney-World…it’s for REAL!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1936.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1937.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1938.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1939.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1940.jpg

We finish up in Glurns, a medieval city from the 1300s…and I find the place Goodie and I stayed at in 2001 without a hitch.
The old couple still has the same “Zimmer frei” -sign on the fence…and Helga is baffled to see us back.
“Sure, no problem…we’ve got enough room ! My…isn’t it good to see you back…You remember where the garage is?”
Sure do!:wink:
Let’s have a sip of that “Samnaun-booty” before we walk into town, eh?:chug:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1941.jpg

It’s a short walk to the ancient walls and the city-gate…and here the world changes.:wow::wow:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1942.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1943.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1944.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1944a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1944b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1944d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1944e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1944f.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1944g.jpg

glitch
26-11-2007, 05:59 PM
And again, this isn’t Disney World…it’s a real, living and breathing town within the historic city walls, most buildings from around the same time the place gained it’s “city-rights”.
No pretzel-shops, no Kitsch, no silver spoons here…but living history.:glu:glu

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1945.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1945a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1945b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1945c.jpg

It’s an absolutely rivetting place…wherever one looks, there’s something…some detail… another bulgy, crooked wall, a latch hundreds of years old, the back-alleys are not cobble stoned but either flag stoned or “pebble-paved” !

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1945d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1945f.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1945g.jpg

A shot…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1946.jpg

to get this shot…:wink:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1946a.jpg

Never miss talking to the locals…:D

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1946c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1946d.jpg

It’s a rivetting place, we just can’t get enough…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1946e.jpg

Remember the Fiat Panda, the little 4WD?
Here’s ‘Pandamonium !!”

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1947.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1948.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1949.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1949a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1949b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1949c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1949d.jpg


Let’s just keep exploring a little longer…:clap::clap:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1949e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1949f.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1949g.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1949h.jpg

The Ortler peak…hopefully tomorrow’s target…the Stilfserjoch (Passo di Stelvio) is right next to it…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1950.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1950a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1950b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1950c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1950d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1950f.jpg

Starting to feel at home here? So are we…:thumbs::thumbs:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1951.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1952.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1952a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1953.jpg

Hmmmm…somehow the afternoon disappeared, while time stood still for us.

And being right in the middle of one of those historical conundrums, the area still clings to its German-language heritage, while everything official is Italian.
Time to sit down…relax, have a bottle or 2 of the local, talk, wonder and laugh….

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1954.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor1955.jpg

Yahhh, life's damn good !!:so

glitch
27-11-2007, 01:39 PM
Jeez :whistle::whistle:…that last sip of Apricot-Schnapps…and today’s supposed to be a “Big One”…:eek:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2001.jpg

As always, breakfast is part of accommodation and Helga dishes up…:wow:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2001a.jpg

Hmph….don’t know about a “Big One” ??:rolleyes:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2001b.jpg

No, not the Enterprise…. but the standard heating-system for a 3 story family home.:eek::eek:

Ohhh, Helga’s husband used to be a tiler…and squirreled away all those leftovers to use in his “heating-cellar”, the garage, the outside steps, and…and…:chug:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2002.jpg

A quick 10mins later…. the climb to the Stilfserjoch is CLOSED:mad::mad:….I knew it!!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2003.jpg

Back to Glurns then…hang on, there might be another way across to Bormio:so… the Gavia and Foppa/ Mortirolo Passes?
Let’s go up the Mustair valley to Santa Maria and try for the Umbrail Pass, which finishes just short of the Stilfserjoch-saddle…
It’s back into Switzerland, then up the Umbrail…a tiny pass with a few km of dirt in the middle.

It’s still overcast, the clouds skimming the valley-slopes…the dirt is smooth and grippy, cruising around some soft patches at 80…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2004.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2005.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2006.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2007.jpg

Hmm, I don’t know:???:that’s quite a bit of snow and we’re still fairly low…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2007a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2007b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2007c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2007d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2007e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2007f.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2007g.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2007h.jpg

It’s clearing up a little…and getting bloody cold.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2008.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2008a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2008b.jpg

The junction with the road from Bormio to the top

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2008c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2008d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2008e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2008f.jpg

YES….made it, the road to the top is OPEN ! :woot:(from this side).

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2009.jpg

glitch
27-11-2007, 01:45 PM
HOLY MACKEREL !!!!!! :eek::eek:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2009a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2009b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2009c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2009e.jpg

…and that’s what we missed out on!! The “closed” side….:glu:glu:glu

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2009f.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2009g.jpg

Let’s enjoy this for a few more minutes…the spirits are flying high up here!

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2009h.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2009j.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2010.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2010b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2010c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2010d.jpg

Time to go back… into Bormio…there’s not much hope for the Gavia Pass, a commercially unimportant single-laner at nearly the height of the Stilfserjoch…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2011.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2011a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2011b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2011c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2011d.jpg

Nearly out of the snow…the run to Bormio looks like a cracker !:slobb:slobb

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2011e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2011f.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2012.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2013.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2013a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2013b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2013c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2013d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2013e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2013f.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2013h.jpg

WOT?? Now the Stilfser is OPEN???:doh: Not really, just up to the top…they’re still clearing the other side.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2013j.jpg

Same with the Gavia Pass…:(:(

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2014.jpg

We take the main road down-valley towards Grosio, jump-off point for the Mortirolo/ Foppa Pass…
Lucky here, that our bikes are bigger than 250cc’s…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2014a.jpg

After the rush of riding in the snow, the incredible scenery and views, everyone’s eager to get off the main road and “into it” again….and the Mortirolo doesn’t disappoint !!:so:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2014b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2014c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2014d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2014e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2014f.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2014g.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2014h.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2014j.jpg

Grouse, isn’t it? Maaan..what a find,:wow: YEEHA.

glitch
27-11-2007, 01:51 PM
EXACTLY the way we like it :lao:lao…narrow, sometimes a bit gnarly, stumping scenery…this is like discovering the narrow lanes and the nooks’ n crannies of a new neighbourhood.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2015.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2015a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2015b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2015c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2015d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2015e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2015g.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2015h.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2016.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2016a.jpg

Everyone’s pumped when we finally pop-out of it and back onto the main road just short of Tirano…the Italian side of the Bernina Pass and the Poschiavo Valley.

A short detour as there’s some festival in town about to be wound up… traffic galore:eek:, but the place isn’t too big and the Swiss border just on the other side of town.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2017.jpg

It’s still overcast, the sun has shown itself sparsely….but when it did, views turned dramatic.
http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2015c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2015d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2015e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2015g.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2015h.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2016.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2016a.jpg

Everyone’s pumped when we finally pop-out of it and back onto the main road just short of Tirano…the Italian side of the Bernina Pass and the Poschiavo Valley.

A short detour as there’s some festival in town about to be wound up… traffic galore:eek:, but the place isn’t too big and the Swiss border just on the other side of town.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2017.jpg

It’s still overcast, the sun has shown itself sparsely….but when it did, views turned dramatic.
With only one possible road and St. Moritz as a destination…it’s a free-for-all up the Bernina Pass, let’s scratch brothers…and sister!:so:so

The top’s a STUMPER :woot::woot: as the clouds break a little, the whole snow and ice glory of the Bernina glaciers shows itself. Memories well up…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2017a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2017b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2017c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2017d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2017e.jpg

The Lagalb…there’s a mountain of skiing memories in that front face alone.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2018.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2018a.jpg

A bit further down the road, the Diavolezza cable-car….more memories of GREAT days of fun in the snow a loooong time ago…mono-skiing, racing against the clock, going stupid…busted bones, stitches and bandages, skies broken in half, bindings ripped out of their fixtures, skiboots cracked and ripped so badly, they’d turned into moccies…
It was a wild time…and a GREAT time.
The scars are still there now…but I was bulletproof then.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2018b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2018c.jpg

Another few k’s down the road is the probably most photographed scene in Switzerland (next to the Matterhorn)…the Morteratsch Glacier near Pontresina/ St. Moritz.
The Piz Rosegg, Piz Palu and Piz Morteratsch crown the views…the majesty of those ice-peaks is just overwhelming.
More memories….memories of crampons tied to boots, ropes, harnesses, inching around crevasses and gasping for air along the narrow spines, ears pitched for the ominous sounds of cracking ice underfoot…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2019.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2019a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2019b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2019c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2019d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2019e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2019g.jpg

glitch
27-11-2007, 02:05 PM
It’s hard to let go…lumpy-throat-hard.
Those mountains had never let me go…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2019h.jpg

Into St. Moritz…

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2020.jpg

…and down the old road to Celerina, alongside the old Olympic Bobsled track…it’s still used for major events now.
How is THAT for a banked curve??:eek::eek:

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2020a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2020b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2020c.jpg

It’s been a BIG day…not so much the riding…that too…but the impressions were massive and it’s a slow roll down the valley to Zernez, for the hop across the Ofen Pass again.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2021.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2021a.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2021b.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2021c.jpg

There’s just enough “fire-in-the-boiler” for one more scratch-and-catch session up to the top…the shadows grow long, the day mellows into golden light… and so does our mood.

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2021d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2021e.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2021f.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2021g.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2021h.jpg

The sun knows it too…it’s been one of those STAR-days !:so:so:so

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2022.jpg

Bloody oath…we EARNED THAT!!:bs

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2022a.jpg

Arghhhh :whistle: (tastes sensational though!!)

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2022b.jpg

Things are getting a bit blurry from here…but SHIT, it was FUN !!:bs:bs:bs

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2022c.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2022d.jpg

http://www.glitch-oz.com/pics/07/Tornanti/2/tor2022e.jpg

Clowndog
28-11-2007, 12:21 PM
Thanks for the latest installments, still completely stunning !

Table keg eh ? that could catch on.


Im convinced that meeting with the two cows walking down that narrow street was no simple coincidence. They have outposts in every corner of the world I tell ya !

glitch
28-11-2007, 12:32 PM
Worn out yet??? Had enough of this? :doh::doh:

Stiff bickies!!! :bs:bs

Let's start Part3...

There are LOADS of GOODIES in the bag!!
Some stumpers, some quieter days....some incredible roads...and some that went deep under the skin...and more great people along the way.

I WANNA READ IT ALL AGAIN... FROM THE START!! (http://www.austouring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1506)

Part 3...let's rock !! (http://www.austouring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1552)






Enjoy... :so:so

glitch
28-11-2007, 12:33 PM
Thanks for the latest installments, still completely stunning !

Table keg eh ? that could catch on.


Im convinced that meeting with the two cows walking down that narrow street was no simple coincidence. They have outposts in every corner of the world I tell ya !

They sure do...:bs
That tablekeg was a ripper....the contents, too :eek::bs

motorradrudi
28-11-2007, 05:23 PM
Hello Pete,

what a day!!!:glu:glu:glu

Not only the Umbrail and the Stilfser Joch, but the Mortirolo and Guspessa and then the Bernina - still fantastic.
You know, that the Mortirolo (http://www.motorradrudi.info/Highlights-der-Alpen-Passo-del-Mortirolo-auch-Passo-della-Foppa.123.0.html)is one of the highlights (http://www.motorradrudi.info/Highlights-der-Alpen.120.0.html)of the whole alps for me (you've done 4 of the 5!!!) - I love it!!!
The Bernina is still a glem too! And the landscape around - what would you need more?

Thanks for sharing this with us!

Best greatings from good old Germany
Rudi

glitch
28-11-2007, 06:07 PM
Hello Pete,

what a day!!!:glu:glu:glu

Not only the Umbrail and the Stilfser Joch, but the Mortirolo and Guspessa and then the Bernina - still fantastic.
You know, that the Mortirolo (http://www.motorradrudi.info/Highlights-der-Alpen-Passo-del-Mortirolo-auch-Passo-della-Foppa.123.0.html)is one of the highlights (http://www.motorradrudi.info/Highlights-der-Alpen.120.0.html)of the whole alps for me (you've done 4 of the 5!!!) - I love it!!!
The Bernina is still a glem too! And the landscape around - what would you need more?

Thanks for sharing this with us!




Best greatings from good old Germany
Rudi
[/SIZE][/SIZE]

Maaate....it was a HUMDINGER of a day !!!
AWESOME !!

Thinking about it now, looking at the pics...still shaking my head :chug:
Life doesn't get better than that....

art_tas
08-12-2007, 11:04 AM
:lol:Just a lazy 6000 pics to go huh:rolleyes:. Thats a lot of memory cards Pete. Amasing photo's. That is a trip of a lifetime, fantastic stuff. Most spectacuar ride and pics I have seen in ages, :gluInspirational stuff:clap:
The structure you ask about-in the 1st page I think it is?- I seem to recall they are ventalation shafts for the giant extractor fans, in the avalanche tunnels and road tunnels that riddle the alps. I recall similar structures in Austria, and asking the locals the same thing. They would just be in the middle of nowhere and look like a secret military concrete bunker or installation.

Yes, I took that pic as it's the entrance to Switz via the St Bernard tunnel. There are also some pics of the exit on the Swiss side. I almost missed the entrance to the balcony on the desent as it appeared to be another tunnel! I had hung back to get variuos shots on the Swiss side, which after the climb via the origianl "pass" road turned out to be an anti climax - if you could have one in those parts - Sheesh I'd go back there in a whiff:drool:
Hey Pete....stop writing it like this!! I'm getting home sick for Northern Austria now:endu and those climbs with the snow etching the tar tornantis - Bring it back!!!

art_tas
08-12-2007, 11:24 AM
Back down the old road, joining the valley just before the Swiss border control (and since Switzerland is NOT part of the EU, there ARE controls…
Being the first of the bunch I come around a lefthander into a treed area, just after overtaking a line of cars and a bus…and some uniform on the little carpark on the right sticks out his red-blinking soup-ladle…pull over, son!!
Arrggghhh…SHIT !!!:eek::eek::eek:

Ok, things weren’t 100% clean on my part :rolleyes: and some speed was needed to “make it” before the next bend:whistle:…you know, how it goes…squirt-screech-push and shove a little…squirt-screech…push-shove…

“You got anything to declare?”
WOT??? :looney:A declaration of….wot...Independence? :doh:
Explain WHY I had to overtake that bus the way it turned out???:whistle:….yeah, yeah,’twas a bit tight there for a moment but the GS wouldn’t go over anymore without going for a skate…
“ What did you buy in Samnaun?” Ciggies? Grog?
That grin comes right from deep below….Customs !!
“Well guys, go bonkers on the panniers”
NOTHING to declare!!
….or….didn’t Tim and Goodie shove the 2 bottles of Schnapps into my topbox as it was the most empty one at the time??
Hmmm…..

Whatever…I rather pay those duties than what I would’ve faced if those guys would’ve been the ”track marshals”….:oops::oops:
Hitting the main road in the valley, the bunch stands there, waits….and GRINS !!
Arseholes!!:upyrs::upyrs:
Yeah I thought you were a gonna, coming around that bend and seeing the uniforms, green van (very good camo) and.....1 GS12 with a white helmet...aghhhh shite it's Pete and he taken the wrap for all of us playing bumper bikes on the descent with the 2 door Mercs, 4 door beemers and Porsches (all with full tanks of cheap petrol, Cigars on the dashboard by the carton and boxes of Scotch, boots so full you could see the lids distorting....and they pull over an Aussie with socks in his top box that would curdle a 10 yr old Haggis?? Go figure:bs

glitch
10-12-2007, 04:57 PM
....and they pull over an Aussie with socks in his top box that would curdle a 10 yr old Haggis?? Go figure:bs

Tell ya...they certainly weren't impressed. Most probably packed up for the day (or a week of sick-leave) after that :bs:bs

julian
13-12-2007, 11:19 PM
[quote=glitch;8734]Hi there.... "Anonymous viewer" !!
:hiWell yes I do keep coming back as it's a fantastic trip, photos and write up. I've only got a postie bike so I can only dream of the adventure.
thanks
Julian :-)

glitch
14-12-2007, 07:27 AM
[quote=glitch;8734]Hi there.... "Anonymous viewer" !!
:hiWell yes I do keep coming back as it's a fantastic trip, photos and write up. I've only got a postie bike so I can only dream of the adventure.
thanks
Julian :-)

Hi mate
Goodonya for posting up !!
postie-adventure = dream only?????
:bs:bs:bs

Then look at THIS:

http://www.austouring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1335

http://www.austouring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1271

http://www.austouring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1166


And there's an even bigger one coming
The Posties-to-the-Cape Trifecta

http://www.austouring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1363&highlight=posties

This one IS GOING AHEAD, despite some folks dropping out.
Some flight tickets are already booked, money spent...
pack yer gear buddy :bs:so:so

glitch
29-01-2008, 02:33 PM
This thread is now locked, please post further replies at the final part of the story.
Here:


Part 3...let's rock !! (http://www.austouring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1552)


Thanks :chug: