Simpson Desert

M

mickd

Guest
Hi all, heres a little trip I did recently I thought I would share with you



For the last couple of years myself and my loyal and fearless wingman Scotty have been toying with the idea of crossing the Simpson Desert via Cecil Madigans Route.

For those that are not familiar with Madigans route, it runs across the Simpson desert approximately 100 klms or so above and parallel to the more recognised French Line. Until recently when a couple of fellas from Queensland did the crossing successfully it had never been done unsupported on a motorbike. Each trip out there we skirt the edges of the route but for one reason or another we are yet to get things together to make the crossing a reality.
This year however we (well I decided and forced Scotty to join me) decided to get a bit more serious about following the steps of the great Madigan and his team of camels.
So, last month ventured out to the desert playground with thoughts of an attempt at the elusive Madigans crossing. Again,things were not to be however, with common sense telling us the time was not right, but we had a lot of fun anyway, here’s how it went.

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I was a bit behind the eight ball with preparation, having flown home from work the day before departure date, clearly I still had a bit of work to do on the 950 before I was going anywhere. So I got to work and soon had Katey all tarted up up and ready to roll.

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Well I rolled up to Scotts place Just outside of Gympie the following day at around 5pm off memory all be it about 8 hrs late and after a quick cuppa we decided to it was time to venture west for a look about. Through the night we travelled at a fairly sedate pace, dodging skippys relatives most of the way.
No pics for the first leg cause it was dark .... and we were on a mission

After around 14 hrs and some 1200 odd klm we rolled into Windorah , dropping in at the usual stop off point, Merv and Bubs Mobil Servo for fuel and a regroup.
And if you have never been to Windorah Mobil , make a point of dropping in there if you ever get the chance.Merv, the fella that runs the place just happens to be blind and is a real character to boot... when we dropped in this time he was busy installing a radiator into a Commodore ute ..... :wow:


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Originally we had planned to head into Birdsville and shoot across the French line to attempt a west - east crossing but the recent rains and associated flooding in the west meant we would have to continue north from Windorah up through Bedouri and Boulia and then across the Plenty hwy to get to our western start point, Mac Clark reserve.

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Onward from Windorah we forged and after dodging the wildlife all night the powers that be must have decided a change was required and gave us these to dodge throughout the day.

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t pays to give these fellas a bit of space .....

The plan was to make Jervois for our first stop over and generally speaking, after dropping onto the dirt north of Windorah the road is pretty much like this all the way, not much to do but sit and gnaw away at the distance in front .
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Its always good to hit the first dirt after Windorah and about 1400 klms of tar travel.

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Bit of water here and there slowed progress a little

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The floodwaters were playin a bit of havoc with our travel, for the most part it was more of this though and you can cover some good ground on the big twins in this sort of going, All good !

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We made it into Boulia somewhere around mid afternoon and with another 470 odd klm to Jervois it was evident there would be some night riding involved if we were to make our destination.

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So with full tanks we ventured on
It wasn’t long and darkness was upon us and we soon encountered a problem with night vision on Scotts bike… no lights !

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So we did a bit of roadside investigation but soon lost interest and decided to punch on for the remaining 100 odd klm into Jervois under the lights of my steed. Scotts bike had also developed a somewhat worrying exhaust leak somewhere in the vicinity of the rear pot, but again, in the darkness we were unable to find the source of the problem. Perhaps tomorrow in the daylight with the benefit of some sleep and some daylight things would be a little clearer.

And so it was, after about 26 hrs on the road and some 2400 klm behind us the first leg was done and dusted
 
M

mickd

Guest
So,yesterday had been a big day so we both slept well and morning came around pretty quick and we were up and at it pretty early, eager as a couple of chipmunks in a nut factory

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We set too checking out the bikes and soon found the exhaust leak on Scotts bike, a plug for some sort of sensor had blown out so that was an easy fix… all we needed was a 10 mm bolt and good to go.

While we were dicking around a young fella that had rolled in after us came over for a chat. Turns out young Nicko was a crazy Dutchman even crazier than us….. He has rolled into Australia, borrowed a friends Nissan Patrol and set off in outback Australia to do a bit of exploring on his own. Made our little adventure pale in significance compared to what he was doing, he was a champion young fella too.
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Anyway ,
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within about ten minutes of meeting him Scotty had persuaded him that it was ok to remove certain parts of the Patrol in order to fix the big 950 and he set too with a spanner and removed the 10mm bolt required to fix his exhaust leak.
While Scotty was scamming the Dutchman I went for a bit of a look about

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Parked in the Marshal River.... apparently someone forgot to tell the Marshal that there was some serious flooding going on in the great outback.

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Crossing the Marshall River on the Plenty Highway at Jervois.

Right, back to work.
Now from Jervois we had a slight detour to tend to before continuing west just in case we actually succeeded in conquering the Madigans. The plan was to head down the Hay River apporx 80klm as far as Batton Hill camp and drop off some fuel just in case we were successful in conquering the Madigan track. With about 730 klm between fuel stations with approximately 350 klm of unknown desert travel, we were really going to be stretched for fuel, so the extra fuel migh just see us through if we got that far.

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Heading off down the Hay and you get a reality check...

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We rode the Hay River Track last year and it is an awesome ride, beginning at Poepells Corner in the South it runs north right through to the Plenty Highway its another “must do” ride for intrepid motorcycling adventurers.

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Trust me, its an absolute hoot
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The big bikes were lovin this

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Off memory, from Birdsville to Jervois via the Hay it is about 695 klm and If your looking for a track a little less travelled I would highly recommend you consider this route, running with the swales it is not overly difficult but still challenging enough not to be boring .So, If you do a bit of dirt riding..hop out there and have a go at it !
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Oh ye we're havin some fun here

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He He, Old Scotty is a musterer from way back, couldnt help himself when the camels presented themself. He had em rounded up in a jiffy !
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Batton Hill Camp is a must do destination, again, hot showers, sweet! Permit is required but no drama to get.

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So with the fuel drop done, we pinned the ears back and settled into killing some distance, we were looking at putting our self well down the other side of Alice Springs by day’s end so we needed to hook in.
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And true to form, Scotty settles in to the job at hand... No idea what he's up to here, maybe sending a txt
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but tacking along at around 110 klm/h not lookin where he's goin , one hand at the controls and the front wheel just skimmin the terra firma !! Ah, if only it were that easy for me .
 
M

mickd

Guest
The run across the Plenty is a pretty straight forward affair, another dirt super highway and its not uncommon to have the odd Landcruiser and the likes round you up at around 120 kph if you happen to be dawdling along.
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We called into Atitjere for fuel on the way but being a public holiday there wasnt anyone around..... I think the store was opening a bit later in the arvo but we didnt want to hang about, didnt matter we were pretty right so just kept rolling on . For anyone travelling through Atitjere has fuel and a well stocked shop so a good place to drop into for supplies, dont think I would camp there though.

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A little ways down the road we came across these fellas and pulled up for a chat. Man this bus was 5 star accomodation and then some, it had all the whistles and bells. Apparently the bus is made in Brisbane and these fellas get the job of transporting it across to the sales outlet in Perth. They do the trip about once a year I think, not a bad lurk, free transport and a cheap holiday.

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Bit of road improvement going on up there too. Got talkin to the fella on the stop go sighn at this spot, he had been on the road for about 5 years just following work and had seen pretty much allof Australia. Turns out that before he headed off on his working adventure he had lived two houses down the road from where I currently live, small world eh ?

A little while later in the day we rolled into GemTree

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Gem Tree is located on the western end of the Plenty Hwy and is a pretty good spot, they have fuel food and camp facilities available

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Recomend as a stop off point .

We had a chat with the owners and a pie and it wasnt long before tour boss Scott was cracking the whip and we were back on the road again. Another 60 klm west and we made the Stuart Highway

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And from there it was another short 60 odd klm run down into Alice Springs.

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Another quick stop at Alice then we headed off down the Santa Teresa Rd heading for Mac Clarke Reserve and the start of the Madigan track.

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We stopped in at Santa Teresa and took on a full load of fuel for the journey ahead, Santa Teresa would be the last fuel until we reached Jervois again if we were going to make the crossing. There are good facilities at Santa Teresa, fuel and a mini supermarket so a good place to stock up if your heading into the desert from the western side - Iwouldnt recomend camping there though.

So we left Santa Teresa with full tanks and we were now carrying around 70 litres of fuel and another 20 in water but the big girls took it in their stride and continued to behave quite reliably in the handling department.

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The road remained in good condition for the next 30 odd klms

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Approaching Andado Station boundry, road, conditions deteriorated (improved for us) somewhat so we started to have a bit of fun here and there.

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A challenging section here and there
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specially for a skinny runt like me holding up 300 odd kg of bike and gear!

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Note the greenery in the pics at times the contrast between the bright red sand and the lush greenery had to be seen to be believed. awesome ! I think someone forgot to remind this place it is supposed to be a desert !

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With Scotty in the lead continued on into the night for a while again

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and with limited light on his bike (we didnt manage to get his high beam working) his Katey decided she had had enough at around 8pm and had a little lay down. No real drama except Scott managed to kick and bust the tap off his water tank there was a bit of scurrying going in the dark on at that point while we stemmed the flow of the precious resource. We managed to stop the leak without much loss and decided that maybe it was a good time to pull up stumps for the day. We hadnt done too bad, having left the eastern coast of Australia two days prior we had covered some ground ....

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Young Scotty makes a mean camp fire too .

One thing guaranteed, after long days in the saddle I really look forward to climbing into the swag and I reckon it sure beats anything the Sheraton has to offer. Love It !
Slept well again that night and bounced out of the swag early (ahem, well I did anyway :
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) ready for the days adventure that lay ahead.

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We had a bit of a discussion about our fuel situation and agreed that maybe we were cutting things a bit fine. Decided to empty some fuel into some spare soft drink bottles (which we would leave there at the camp site) and Back track to Santa Teresa for more fuel. A bit of a pain and about an 80 klm back track, but better that than running out of fuel in the middle of no where.

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A couple of hrs later, with a bit more fuel and we were back on track and closing in on Mac Clarke.

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And the riding conditions were at there best again and the big twins thundered through this section at a fairly brisk rate !!
The track remained good as we continued south and we soon arrived at the northern end of Andado Stn around 250 klm south of Alice Springs.

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We turned off before reaching the Andado Homesteads and although it is in a pretty remote part of the country the Old Andado Homestead in particular, is well worth visiting if you happen to be out that way .

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For a place so full of nothing, by gee , I never cease to be amazed by how much there is to see out here..... something I never tire of is the views

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We continued on through the morning without drama , just cruised along enjoying the sights

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Almost there now, the start of the Madigans....

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Tour Boss Scott just making some final checks on the gps :
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?

Since leaving Santa Teresa yesterday we hadnt seen a single vehicle (although a short wheel base Landcruiser did come through sometime during the night) but upon turning off the Andado track it was soon apparent there was a bit of activity going on somewhere up the road...

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And we met a few of these fellas on their way out.

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The road was well maintained and travelled too.

It wasnt long and we made the Reserve and for us, the start of the Madigan track.

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From here on we would be on our own and should we run into dramas were none too aware of the consequences....
 
M

mickd

Guest
A bit about the Madigans, sorry about the picture quality.

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Madigans route heads north from Old Andado Homestead before turning east at at camp 4 to cross the Simpson, running roughly parallel and , I dunno,maybe 150 klm north of the French Line,ending in Birdsville for a distance of around 705 klm . There are 24 camps in all and these have been marked for travellers to observe as they retrace the steps of Madigans 1939 expedition. In recent times approximately half a dozen vehicles make the crossing each year and as far as we are aware, up until a couple of weeks ago when Qld boys Phil Hodgens and Bill Laver were successful on the mighty DR 650S,no motorcycle had made the crossing unsupported.
Some of the camps are now in prohibited areas (camps 3,4,5 and camps 17,18 and19) There is a bypass around camps 3,4 and five and on the eastern side camp 16 is now generally considered the end of the route with travellers using the Hay River track to exit the desert.

So there we were, about to put a toe in the water and see what this Madigans route was all about. The plan in general was to have a bit of a look and, if things looked ok we would push on, if not we would back out and take with us the information gained for a return and better prepaired attempt at a later date.

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From Mac Clarke there are a couple of options to get to camp 2, via camps 1 and 1A (which we chose) or via the bypass. Turning at the East bore for camp 1 it became apparent that very few travellers use this option.

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With the road non existant, travel became slow.

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And while we searched in vain we could not locate camp 1.... we were not off to a good start. So decided To cut across the virgin terrain in search of Camp 1A

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After doing battle with the dunes for a while we came across what our gps was telling us would be camp 1A.

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Hmmm :? it would appear as though someone may have moved camp 1 marker to camp 1A, no wonder we couldnt find it !!
Anyway we were happy to have succeeded in getting this far and we had found a track again which helped to improve our spirits

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Onward in search of camp 2 we travelled.

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There was a bit of water here and there to negotiate/avoid but other than that it was plain sailing through to camp 2 and beyond to the twins.

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Came across the old Case tractor the other side of camp 2, by gee its a long way from anywhere. would be interesting to know the story behind how it got there.

Approx 5 klm past camp 2 we made the twins, a couple of rocky outcrops , so called due to their similar appearance to each other. And it was here that we would take the bypass thtough to camp 6, thereby avoiding the offlimits camps 3,4,and 5. It was noted a reasonable track continued on in the direction of camp 3
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. It was also noted there was no track heading in the direction of the bypass :? . Anyway we continued searching for what we assumed would be a track of sorts, apart for a couple of very faint wheel tracks in one spot, no track was found.

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We pushed on but in the slow and heavy going Scotty was having some overheating dramas with his bike....... it was becoming apparent that we may have to consider aborting the attempt. For now we agreed to soldier on , trying to keep the pace up where possible to help cool down Scotts bike.

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A little while later Scotts bike shut down for no apparent reason, just stopped , kput .....nothing.... oh crap!!Hmmm, a bit of investigation revealed half of his sidestand swtich hanging off.

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Some bush mechanics with a scotch lock and he was soon up and running again. It did hit home however the issues we would be facing should one of the bikes suffer a non repairable failure out here...

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We battled on once Scott was up and running and with conditions deteriorating further we made the decision to pull out before we got in too deep and a situation we couldnt get out of without help. the last thing we wanted was to put other peoples lives at risk and become the puropse of a rescue mission for the locals.

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One of the problems faced was that in the absence of a track we had to keep each other in visual contact, to become separated would have made it extremely difficult to locate each other again. It became important to have some predetermined meeting points in the event a separation occurred.
 
M

mickd

Guest
Oh OOPS, Back again, sorry for the delay
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So with the decision made,and somewhat dejected.. we sat for a while to discuss the retreat plan. Since leaving camp1/1A we had taken somewhata of a u course. With that in mind and the fact that there was no track to follow, Scotty decided we might as well just cut straight across country to Camp 1, it would be shorter and probably no more difficult than what we had just travelled. Old dopey here nodded in agreement and with that we set sail again and off we went.

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And for a while the conditions we not to bad , but the improvement was shortlived and we were soon in a little bit of strife...

We found ouself up un top of a rocky outcrop and as we headed toward the edge to decend back into the dunes we found a near verticle rocky drop of about 20 metres, we would need to find another path to follow or back track. Then within the space of a few moments I realised Scott was no longer in front of me and I couldnt see any wheel tracks..... Hmmm So I shut down the big girl to get a bearing on where he was ....... Nothing but silence.
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I waited a few minutes, still nothing. Crap ! From my vantage point high up I was fairly certain he had not got down off the outcrop and blasted off toward Camp 1 which meant he should be close by. I waited a bit longer, still nothing so I headed ovr to a clear spot and left the bike where it would be easily seen from below and off I set on foot, he had to be somewhere around the base I thought. I walked along the top edge for a bout a klm then I heard his bike , just briefly start and then stop again......
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Thats a relief I thought to myself and down the drop off I headed in his general direction. I didnt have to go too much further to find him
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He was a bit busy

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The big girl had gone down and was refusing to budge for him

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A bit of a prayer from Scott ;Dsoon had us back on track again and off we went again. whew !
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And before long we were back at the Camp 1 marker again and some sign of life by way of a defined track again.



We hadnt really travvelled that far but the day was getting on a bit at this stage

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and it would soon be dark and I could sense Scotty wanted to push on a bit so with some familiar territory back in view we continued on, making good time before setting up camp again in the desert south of Santa Teresa.

True to form, Scott soon had another ball tearer camp fire going again !

The next morning I had visions of heading south to Mt Dare and across the Sinpson to the Hay and following it out to Jervois, but Scott was thinking otherwise,being a little unsure of what had been causing the heating dramas with his bike he was keen to keep a little closer to civilisation and we decided to head back through Alice then up through Cattlewater pass for a look about.

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So with the decision made and a new plan to follow we ventured forth yet again....

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We soon left the desert dunes behind and were back in Alice before we knew it.

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A quick fuel up and a bite to eat and the slave driver had us on the go again on the Ross Highway headed for Arltunga and Cattlewater Pass.

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Quite a bit of history in the Arltunga area and again, the run through here from Alice to the Plenty Highway is well worth doing, gets a little bit technical in some areas of the Calltewater section but nothing that cant be managed for the average joe. Highly recomend !

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With the tourist thing done and dusted for us at Arltunga we headed on for

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and some absolute magic riding.... this track is one of my favourites..... I have quite a few
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It passes through the 3000 plus sq klm Ambalindum Station and although we didnt venture to the Homestead I believe it is also a very good stopover point, offering self catered accomodation, camping and more.
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nyway enough of that and back to the riding.

The terrain offered through the Pass section varies widely from winding hilly sections

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to cattle grazing flats

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to sometimes sandy ,

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some times rocky creek sections.

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Going on the shape of what was a new rim, I think I cracked a few rocks through there too....... it was sporting about 7 of these.... We were having a bit of a go through here though
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And...on the odd occasion where you miss a turn and cant back up there is the occasional log
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The run through from Alice was over far too soon for my liking and we were back on the Plenty heading east before we knew it.

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Making good time too we were

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Having done more klms riding with Scott than I care to remember I could sense he had the bit between his teeth and was on a mission as we headed east.... both of us had let out a bit of slack on the right hand grip and we thundered across the top like men possessed. The big bikes were in their element :thumb:
So other than a stop to refuel at Jervois it would be late in the evening before we would stop again just south of Boulia to set up camp and call it a day. Another fine days riding indeed.

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Didnt know it at the time cause it was dark when we pulled in,

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but the following morning revealed we had found a very nice spot on the creek bank.

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We wern't in a hurry to rush off this morning and Bush cook Scott set to knocking up a breakfast fit for kings..... not sure how petrol was used in the ingredients...

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Excellent ! Master chef, beat that !

Over breakfast we mulled over what would be the days itenary, we were both keen for a run through the Diamentina National Parks but wer'nt sure if we could get through due to recent rains.
The route would take us from the camp site through the Diamentina National park and Diamentina lakes to Jundah in the south. All going well we would save a bit of time and get to see a bit more country...

With that, the decision made it was time to fly.... ah, emm
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Young fellas eh !
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And Scotty reckoned we needed to hit the track if we were to get home by next stop...

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OOps, ;Ddont think thats quite what he meant when he said we needed to hit the track :biggrin:

We hadnt travelled too far when we came across an ominous sign of what possibly lay ahead

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Old mate had his front wheels caught in wheel ruts and dragged the rig off the road into the table drain. They had just finished unloading the three trailers into another road train when we arrived and were about to attempt to tow it out.

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But she was stuck fast and going nowhere, we left them to it and continued on.As we closed in on the Diamentina river signs of the recent rains increased
 
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M

mickd

Guest
Right , where were we ... Oh ye it was looking a bit wet here and there. So we left old mate and headed south for the Diamentina .

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First a little bit wet ......

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Then a bit more

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Just wasnt letting up
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Then some more, until finally our plans were thwarted

Scotty was keen to have a crack but with the river running hard and with me havin been almost washed away in the Eyre Ck on one of our earlier escapades I was more than a little gunshy. Fortunately I managed to talk him out of going any further, (because Im the sensible one of the two of us
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) we decided a backtrack would be the better option. So a run back up to Coorabulka Rd (Ithink) would see us come out on the Diamentina Developmental a couple hundred kays or so north west of Windorah.

And back to the tar ...

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Rolled into Windorah mid to late in the afternoon and before I could turn around Scotty had gone missing...... A quick look across the road and....
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Hmmm. A quick scan of the horizon and I knew where to look
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Looking pretty pleased with himself too he was.

So,with the trip all but over now, we knocked back a quick sharpy grabbed a bit of fuel and hit the road for the run home. I rolled into home at downtown Cooroy at around 7 am the following morning notching up another 2000 odd klm day and somewhat second hand by then I might add
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All in all it had been another blinder of a trip, bit disappointed when we pulled out of the Madigan crossing, but it isnt going anywhere so no matter.

edit: seems like Im headed back in a couple of weeks to hit it again should be good so stay tuned if your interested, Ill run the spot too.

We had fun and thats what its all about eh ?

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CYAs next time

Mick
 
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