Ignition lock and coded key bypass_1
EWS errors.... duplicate/ replacement keys.... and how to "save the bacon" after busting the RF-antenna finishing with a "dead" bike.
Issues: Another "item of bother"...the EWS-error as a result of broken wires/ contacts to the ignition lock antenna after connecting or modding the electrics in the headlight shell area....or after even small crashes which involve the headlight area.
Also: Factory key can NOT be reproduced and aftermarket keys are are not chip-ed, therefore can't be coded to the bike.
Having peeled the plastic-cap off the ignition lock, there's another cap-like cover around the top, which seems to be a lot harder/ impossible to pry off (at least, with the ignition lock still in its usual place)
This 2. cap appears to be the code-pickup antenna, receiving the code from the chip in the OEM-key and transferring it to a transponder/ reader/ verifier, which in return passes the "All clear" (or NOT!!) to the ECU....the reason for the 1 second delay between hitting the starter button and the starter motor actually cranking, methinks.
The antenna wire leads into the headlight-shell and is pretty stiff and rigid....not your standard cable. The wire is also held by a tiny cable-clip (horse-shoe-type) in the ignition lock itself, most likely to protect those rigid/brittle connections from bending and flexing/ vibration.
Playing around the headlight shell or removing it for mods or after a decent stack/ front-damage can easily lead to broken wires of the pickup-antenna which means an instantly "dead" bike.
The stiff antenna wire in the head shell....cable-tied to the front alum brace.
A good search on the Zadi Q933 series of locks didn't bring up much, but I'm sort of familiar with the Honda HISS system and the Suzuki equivalents, the same principles will apply here.
The basic idea is to unplug the Husky antenna and leave it in place with the rigid cable untied for room-of-movement....using a separate antenna and an original key to have permanent "code-verification"...and use a $5 copy to actually do the job of starting/ locking etc the bike.
The Silca blank...
Ebay provided a $12 Honda CB400 HISS ring-antenna for playing around with....in the mail.
I couldn't find the ignition lock diagram in the parts pdf and all documentation on the net indicated that a complete, new, ignition lock incl. antenna ring would be needed, no separate antenna available. With a new ignition lock+antenna unit, new keys are required....and you're now royally rooted! The keys have to be coded with the dash and ECU by an online MOSS session at a dealer that actually has a MOSS system hookup with Munich/ Germany.....and since Husky was sold to KTM/ Austria, who run a different system,there is no MOSS anymore.... it's all over, Red Rover.
The bike's for the bin!
EWS errors.... duplicate/ replacement keys.... and how to "save the bacon" after busting the RF-antenna finishing with a "dead" bike.
Issues: Another "item of bother"...the EWS-error as a result of broken wires/ contacts to the ignition lock antenna after connecting or modding the electrics in the headlight shell area....or after even small crashes which involve the headlight area.
Also: Factory key can NOT be reproduced and aftermarket keys are are not chip-ed, therefore can't be coded to the bike.
Having peeled the plastic-cap off the ignition lock, there's another cap-like cover around the top, which seems to be a lot harder/ impossible to pry off (at least, with the ignition lock still in its usual place)
This 2. cap appears to be the code-pickup antenna, receiving the code from the chip in the OEM-key and transferring it to a transponder/ reader/ verifier, which in return passes the "All clear" (or NOT!!) to the ECU....the reason for the 1 second delay between hitting the starter button and the starter motor actually cranking, methinks.
The antenna wire leads into the headlight-shell and is pretty stiff and rigid....not your standard cable. The wire is also held by a tiny cable-clip (horse-shoe-type) in the ignition lock itself, most likely to protect those rigid/brittle connections from bending and flexing/ vibration.
Playing around the headlight shell or removing it for mods or after a decent stack/ front-damage can easily lead to broken wires of the pickup-antenna which means an instantly "dead" bike.
The stiff antenna wire in the head shell....cable-tied to the front alum brace.
A good search on the Zadi Q933 series of locks didn't bring up much, but I'm sort of familiar with the Honda HISS system and the Suzuki equivalents, the same principles will apply here.
The basic idea is to unplug the Husky antenna and leave it in place with the rigid cable untied for room-of-movement....using a separate antenna and an original key to have permanent "code-verification"...and use a $5 copy to actually do the job of starting/ locking etc the bike.
The Silca blank...
Ebay provided a $12 Honda CB400 HISS ring-antenna for playing around with....in the mail.
I couldn't find the ignition lock diagram in the parts pdf and all documentation on the net indicated that a complete, new, ignition lock incl. antenna ring would be needed, no separate antenna available. With a new ignition lock+antenna unit, new keys are required....and you're now royally rooted! The keys have to be coded with the dash and ECU by an online MOSS session at a dealer that actually has a MOSS system hookup with Munich/ Germany.....and since Husky was sold to KTM/ Austria, who run a different system,there is no MOSS anymore.... it's all over, Red Rover.
The bike's for the bin!