A Little Husky Orphan...aka...The Magic Thumpa

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
Ignition lock and coded key bypass_1

EWS errors.... duplicate/ replacement keys.... and how to "save the bacon" after busting the RF-antenna finishing with a "dead" bike.

Issues: Another "item of bother"...the EWS-error as a result of broken wires/ contacts to the ignition lock antenna after connecting or modding the electrics in the headlight shell area....or after even small crashes which involve the headlight area.

Also: Factory key can NOT be reproduced and aftermarket keys are are not chip-ed, therefore can't be coded to the bike.



Having peeled the plastic-cap off the ignition lock, there's another cap-like cover around the top, which seems to be a lot harder/ impossible to pry off (at least, with the ignition lock still in its usual place)


This 2. cap appears to be the code-pickup antenna, receiving the code from the chip in the OEM-key and transferring it to a transponder/ reader/ verifier, which in return passes the "All clear" (or NOT!!) to the ECU....the reason for the 1 second delay between hitting the starter button and the starter motor actually cranking, methinks.


The antenna wire leads into the headlight-shell and is pretty stiff and rigid....not your standard cable. The wire is also held by a tiny cable-clip (horse-shoe-type) in the ignition lock itself, most likely to protect those rigid/brittle connections from bending and flexing/ vibration.




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Playing around the headlight shell or removing it for mods or after a decent stack/ front-damage can easily lead to broken wires of the pickup-antenna which means an instantly "dead" bike.


The stiff antenna wire in the head shell....cable-tied to the front alum brace.



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A good search on the Zadi Q933 series of locks didn't bring up much, but I'm sort of familiar with the Honda HISS system and the Suzuki equivalents, the same principles will apply here.

The basic idea is to unplug the Husky antenna and leave it in place with the rigid cable untied for room-of-movement....using a separate antenna and an original key to have permanent "code-verification"...and use a $5 copy to actually do the job of starting/ locking etc the bike.



The Silca blank...



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Ebay provided a $12 Honda CB400 HISS ring-antenna for playing around with....in the mail.



I couldn't find the ignition lock diagram in the parts pdf and all documentation on the net indicated that a complete, new, ignition lock incl. antenna ring would be needed, no separate antenna available. With a new ignition lock+antenna unit, new keys are required....and you're now royally rooted! The keys have to be coded with the dash and ECU by an online MOSS session at a dealer that actually has a MOSS system hookup with Munich/ Germany.....and since Husky was sold to KTM/ Austria, who run a different system,there is no MOSS anymore.... it's all over, Red Rover.
The bike's for the bin!
 

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
Ignition lock and coded key bypass_2

Cannibalizing a Honda CB400 HISS antenna ring, details here:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/ignition-transponder-bypass.43485/



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Grinding away the insulation, it shows the 2 connectors of the actual RF-antenna tying into the PCB of the decoder unit.
On the Husky the decoder is part of the ECU, only the antenna part with the 2 connector-lugs is needed to solder a couple of wires to.



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...and rigging it into the Husky connector just above the headlight cross-bar





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GOTCHA BASTARD!! ..... OEM key in the Honda antenna and starting the bike with an un-chipped/ un-coded $5 key.




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Found some connectors on Ebay which EXACTLY match the connectors used on the bike (check for SUPERSEAL-connectors on Ebay).

The OEM plug (of the OEM antenna) "bagged" and sealed , new extension prepped and plugged in.

There aren't too many places on the bike where the Honda antenna with a key "inserted" can go and be near dust/water/vibration- free to never cause trouble.

Picked a spot in the airbox, which has some protected space now that the PodMod was done.


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Fabbing a little alum-bracket to sit neatly in the airbox to prevent any possible damage to either antenna ring/ elec. contacts or the key itself.


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The little rubber-foot sits on the floor of the air-box.


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Also, the key has to be removable for servicing/ removal of the air filter. The cable is routed to just outside the airbox, another connector showing just along the side of the box to the left of the key.

This way the entire airbox can be removed from the bike for servicing without the need to cut cables.


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Edit: Info as to the OEM Husky chipped used.

The actual chip appears to be a "Texas Crypto, 6E-80 TX-MA"
 

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
Engine Oil drain tube fix

Issue: On the TR, engine oil has to be drained from at least 2 points, the main one being a metal inline block with drain-screw in the return-hose below the oil-tank at the steering head. Loosening the drain-plug results in the left side of the engine getting bathed in hot engine oil.

This fix is a permanent maintenance fix to drain the oil via an installed piece of rubber tube with a stop-plug at the bottom end. The hose is long enough (and tied to the crashbars) for the oil to drain straight into a waste-container.



Shown: Engine oil-drain and Pod -filter oil drain (just disregard the cable, which leads to a powersocket installed in the fold of the left side-panel.)




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glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
Jamming radiator cap / bike running hot

Issue:
The factory radiator cap has shown to be near impossible to get off/on.


Replacement Radiator Cap (nearest fit and 1.1kg ) is a
Tridon CB 16110 .

I was looking for a local product specifically, available all over AUS and generic, if possible.
The above item has shown to work and fit perfectly

Goes on like a greased pig's tail, too...no more knotting up fingers to do/ undo the bastard OEM-thing.

Bought at: Bursons Auto Parts, $6.50 (trade)
 

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
Foldable tip rear BRAKE!! lever

While Touratech offers foldable-tip versions of the gearlever, there's nothing around for the other side....a foldable-tip brake lever.



Recently stumbled over this:


http://www.warp9racing.com/billet_brake_pedals.html


Scroll down the page and find the replacement tips for their levers @ $25 each.

And with a little metalwork, they fit just about ANY brake lever out there.
Email them first as for availability/ colours!!


Anodized alum with stainless steel, screw-in spikes for grip.

Pivot/spring and other hardware = stainless.


Nice bling, too :thumbsup:


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After removing the profile that clips into their proprietary levers....the first bit of the metalwork mentioned above.




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A black one mounted to the Husky after a slight re-shape of the lever profile itself (the other bit of the metalwork).


A couple of neat S/S bolts to bolt it up...




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glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
Foldable gear lever

While at the foldable levers....

Being a tightarse and hesitant to spend A$110 on the Touratech item, I reckoned I can find a lever with a foldable tip for a happy Saturday afternoon in the garage and a couple of coldies.


Yo... being steel, I can belt the bejeezuz out of it to make it fit.


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20 bux (with the "Pete"-discount)






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Original and "play-thing"






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Muscling the thing into shape.

Some creative bending and forming after the 2. beer sealed the deal...and the spline seems to be the same fine-toothed one on the Husky, YEEHA!!





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An old piece of 35mm pipe comes in handy, bending the lever arm around a 22mm socket.



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I love it when things go well :clap:
Another beer while watching the paint dry....


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(pic shows the $20 Honda lever in the "up" position, holding it at the "stop".)

Could even weld in a brace, there's enough clearance to the engine cover for a 1/2" brace through the guts of the bend to make things pretty much rock-solid.

Couldn't be bothered though....I'll quickly make a fresh lever if this one bends to the crapper.

Cheers



(Oh...best thing?....Now I got a Honda 10mm hex bolt and it's from above!!!... rather than the stupid Torx25 from below, crouching down to floor level to see the thing)



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robbieb

Tassie Daddy
Making sure noone inputs some stupid guff like this in the middle of your posts? Good idea.

One small input to this great accumulation of knowledge: If each individual "Fix" had its own reply or was sequenced together, then all that info is then easy to follow without side notes of other bits that were done at the same time
 

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
Making sure noone inputs some stupid guff like this in the middle of your posts? Good idea.

One small input to this great accumulation of knowledge: If each individual "Fix" had its own reply or was sequenced together, then all that info is then easy to follow without side notes of other bits that were done at the same time


And THAT is exactly the base for this exercise. For the start I'll bring the whole thing across from Cafe Husky, which isn't quick + easy.... the software's somewhat incompatible and all the pic-links have to be manually extracted and re-sequenced into the copied posts here.
It's fine the other way around, but not from Xenforo back into VBulletin.

Once I've got it all across and working, I'll re-jig the entire thread with the thread-starter containing a clickable reference list to the individual posts and fixes, each fix listed and separated etc etc.
 

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
Battery Post Cover

Issue: The positive post of the battery and the fair-sized housing of the ECU are pretty close to eachother. Close enough for any tool used during a "spanner-session" to slide into a position to arc the 2 items and fry the ECU, rendering the bike unusable at least for a few months, possibly for good (depending on the current factory backup situation).

If fixable, it'll cost a MINT!






Sometimes you've gotta love rainy weekends...

Another potential trouble-area out of the way.


Just a quick "proto-type" battery-post cover made from some Poly-prop sheeting.

Will use some ABS fairing scraps for the real thing.


The OEM battery has a convenient, spare M6 thread.


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Held in place firmly by the wiring coming off the post....and an M6 Nylon screw courtesy of ebay.

No "fried and frazzled ECU's" in this place :)





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glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
Hydraulic rear brake light switch/ Lost reservoir cap

STRADA MAINLY!!

Issue 1 (Strada) only:

The TR rear brake light switch is a flimsy mechanical micro-switch actuated by a soft, welded tongue on the brake-lever. With off-road use either the tongue bends after a while (or stick/branch) or the switch fouls with water/ mud + crud. Another brain-fart by Engineero Luigi :doh:


Issue 2 (all models):
There have also been numerous instances of the cap of the rear brake fluid reservoir vibrating loose and getting lost due to a missing retention clip or such.


__________________


An easy fix for the Terra by using a hydraulic pressure switch instead of the stock banjo-bolt on the rear master cylinder.
A real problem on the Strada with it's rigid ABS brake-lines and fittings.


Removing the factory-switch takes a few minutes. Manipulating the brake line tubing into a totally different shape and run might result in a kink, destroying the line and requiring replacement, which also involves tearing the rear half of the bike down for access to the other side of the line, the ABS-pump unit itself.


The brake tube runs straight into the top of the master cylinder via a ball-flared end and a 10x1mm nut into a dished seat for a good seal.
Not having a banjo fitting at the end, there's no way to attach both the brakeline AND the pressure switch!


Scouring the net for weeks to find a Y-piece/ T-piece/ SOME piece!! with a male 10x1 and twin female ends of the same size to somehow share the master-cylinder thread, things dragged on and on. Nothing around !

Either the fittings are some weird, non-compatible threads or the ends are set up for braided lines with olives and/ or compression fittings....the choices are endless, but NOTHING FITS!!


___________________________________

Maybe cut the nut + flare off, shorten the tube and re-attach a 90degree banjo fitting.
Not having the flaring tools I saw the local brake-service.

"Take the line out and we'll do it...or make a new line, it's usually quicker. It's just normal 3/16" , mate....the rest is a plastic sleeve!"


Too right!! So there IS something normal on that bike, hoo-farken-ray!


No way! I'm not taking half the bike apart to remove the brake line!

And NO, it can't be done on the bike, nor can a different end be welded on, it's too close to the frame, the line barely 3" long.


"You can bend the line quite easily though...just be careful, if it kinks, it's cooked!!"

They sell me a 10mm banjo fitting with a 10x1mm thread from the side and a banjo-bolt to line it all up without having the wiring of the pressure switch getting in the way through all those trial-fittings.


HMMMM....pondering the advice and the facts, it's another 3 weeks of "looking into the pot and smacking the lips..."


I fondle that little metal blob a 100 times, the thought of stuffing it up, the tubing finishing up short or too long and not reaching the fitting in the end....or kinking that line... and there's another problem. Inside that 10x1 female thread sits a ~3mm raised bit of tubing/ spout, onto which the line apparently needs to be fitted somehow...

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Time to pull the finger out or throw up my hands...

Trailering the bike back to the brake shop, the "oldie" of the place shuffles out of the rear workshop and quickly runs through the same options again....then looks at that banjo-blob that the sales guys have given me...and comes up with a plan. The beanie is twitching, the coke-bottle glasses pushed back up that huge honker every 20 seconds, eyes twinkling.


"You ever put a knot in a fart??

"Bloody WOT???"

"Here's how it's done!"


1) Remove brake tube with clip from behind frame-tube (push up line firmly and jiggle until clip is free).

2) Use piece of flat metal/ timber to straighten out the factory-bends.

3) Use 1/2"-1" tubing/ timber doweling/tool-handle or such to slowly bend line around.

The line needs tucking-in harder/ sharper bends etc. up around the frame-tube area...otherwise it's about 1-1.2" too long.



Getting there


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4) That banjo fitting needs the raised "spout" removed and the bottom surface "dished" to mate with the existing factory flare of the brake-line...those 2 will have to make the seal!!

Fitting in the vice, the spout is drilled away with a 5.5mm bit....then a 6mm bit cuts the first bit of a "dish" into the bottom....then a VERY CAREFULLY handled 8mm bit creates a deeper+ wider seat for the flare...WITHOUT NUDGING THE THREADED SIDES, destroying that neat 10x1mm thread.


Going very slow with the handheld drill and that 8mm bit, the actual surface ends up with tiny "bite"-marks of the drill bit's cutting edges...a short burst of medium speed to smooth out that surface.... then reverse the drill for the "polishing" action.


Looks ok to me...



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One of multiple trial fittings, tubing needs straightening out.



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With pressure switch fitted and another layer of heatshrink for protection.



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All done, all tight, all dry, brakes bled.... just the wiring to go and some tidying up.

New brake fluid reservoir ordered, one with a straight-down tube connector.

The OEM unit necessitates the short rubber tube to fit behind the M/C and potentially rub on the swingarm.


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$5 for the fitting, $8 for the pressure switch, $8 for the new reservoir, a few thimbles-full of brakefluid that needed changing anyway, coupla bux for the waterproof electrical connector....and a fearful afternoon of bending that tubing into shape and length, while doubling the grey hairs.

All Models:


The Ebay-reservoir

http://tinyurl.com/pzfhpmg

turned out slightly bigger than the OEM.... which proves a blessing in disguise.

The heatgun takes care of straightening the factory tubing and softening the end to squash that slightly bigger barbed end into.



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The new reservoir now fits firmly into/ between the frame-rails, which act as a securing mechanism for the cap....even if it dedices to come loose, it's got absolutely no-where to go and HAS to stay on the thread.

Since the cap/lid sits on the sealing rubber/ diaphragm, I also can't see any vibration-induced problems (splitting or cracking of cap or housing).

And that's how the whole shebang should've looked ex-factory.



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