Tornanti Road Yarns Part 3_Final

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
On the Road...day24

Sure enough…the morning’s wet, but still not too cold for fresh snow to have blocked our exit…
Across the Passo Falzarego again, this time with a lot more care, into Cortina d’Ampezzo and up the Passo Tre Croci

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Auronzo is still wet and my hopes of cutting east via some tiny single-laners towards Comeglians are drowning…

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A coffee-stop along the Passo di Mauri, a shallow affair east of Lozzo di Cadore shows a few surprises, the owner of the place makes Schnapps from just about anything.:eek::eek::eek:

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I’d really looked forward to those little backroads, the “Panoramica” and Mt. Paularo (both dirt,) in particular. The way the weather is though, it’d be all risk for no gain.

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We keep going east to Moggio, then cut north into the Aupa Valley.
The first 5km turn out to be one continuous roadwork-section, after that the road narrows drastically, climbing up the Sella di Cereschiatis. NOICE !!:clap::clap:
This feels better…the drop into Pontebba is just as tight and scenic as the climb.

With most of the distance for the day under our belts and only the Nassfeld Pass across into Austria to go, it’s time for a break, the slowly lifting clouds might even break open a little. Central Plaza/ Pontebba...things aren't exactly rockin around here :bs

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The Nassfeld Pass is the one, Goodie and I have vivid memories of…. there’s a tunnel on this, the Italian side, which is all cobblestones, rough-hewn walls, pitch-dark, water continuously dripping from the ceilings and walls….and it’s a HAIRPIN.There’s the sign at the side of the plaza, let’s go….

Hey…over there!!! See the FAAAAT guy on the Vespa?
OMG…looks like he’s got a skateboard wedged up his crack…
That poor, little scooter…

Not far and the first “CLOSED” sign appears….road works !
SHITE!!:mad:
It’s 60-70k’s of detour via “boring” main roads…:(
But since the barrier is next to the road and not blocking the road…let’s give it a whirl!

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Piles of materials and the odd digger/ Bobcat grace the sides of the narrow band of asphalt…a construction worker stops us at the tunnel entrance…they’ve ripped up a 20m section of cobblestones, the sand is loose and deep, there’s also a backhoe inside the tunnel….
He waves us through after a minute…not wanting to spray the backhoe-operator by roostertailing through the narrow gap, it’s sloooow…and therefore wobbly. The bikes wanna go everywhere but straight…this is the wrong thing for a fully-packed touring-bike.
A few near misses, Tim nearly decking the RT in the pile of super-deep stuff before climbing onto the remaining cobbles…and we make it all through.

The rest is a piece of cake…while the clouds are closing in again, slowly dropping their bellies.

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Still good enough for a bit of fun, though…

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Herfried’s place is an easy find, signs to the Biker-Gasthof Winkler are everywhere in the little town of Tropolach.:so

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Anyone for “one for the road?”:chug:

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There’s some slaloming around the fresh cow-pies on the main road while walking to the pub for dinner…

Once more, we've found a place that's “home” instantly!:woot::woot::so

This is about as far east as we'll go...(only the "Slovenia-loop" will get us a little further "out", but not overnight).
From here we'll loop towards the north-west, through Austria into Southern Germany and on from there, depending on weather and conditions.
 

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
On the Road...day25

Apart from being a Biker-Gasthof for a decade or longer, Winkler’s is also a small but well-functioning farm…all sorts of animals around, paddocks out the back…and we’re the only guests at the moment.

Which is most probably, why the donkey reckons it’s time to get up while “fog-horning” through the neighbourhood…Christ, that beast has got some lungs and stamina ! :rolleyes::rolleyes:

….cowbells tinkle in the background when the donkey goes for air…

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The lean, mean racing-geese…always close to the wheels of bikes coming and going…:bs

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LOOK!!! One of those Shit-Flickers !!!! :doh::doh:

After cleaning the stables for a year and throwing everything onto one heap, it all gets loaded onto this thing, then spread onto the fields and paddocks before the blanket of snow covers it for the winter…soaking the natural fertilizer into the ground during the snow-melt.
And yo…the VERY FRUITY aroma hits like a dunny-door! :wow::wow:
After a few days, one tends to get used to it though…it becomes part of the whole experience.:wink:

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It also makes for interesting moments when coming around a bend and that’s where the tractor’s done a U-turn, dribbling the stuff all over the road…
Worst part is, that then there’s no way to take the foot off the peg or hand off the bars to warn the others…it can get somewhat busy!:bs

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Not much riding today…the weather is on/off and we’ve got to be back by lunch…the afternoon is reserved for changing 4 sets of tyres and fixing that GS12 seat of Herfried’s.

Let’s nip up north, towards the Nockalm Road, which we’ve got tickets for…

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It’s the day where I’m dropping the ball… have us riding in circles, missing turn-offs, backtracking…just one goof after another.
Still a nice little tootle through the neighbourhood…and still a few Black Spurs worth.

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At least I find the way back to Tropolach again…

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Then it’s off into Hermagor together with Herfried, who’d also organized a friend’s custom seat as a sample…
While the bikes are at the tyre-shop, we’re off to his uncle’s upholstery business around the corner…

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glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
On the Road...day25 cont.

Herfried starts to get weak knees when everything’s coming apart and I’m asking for a belt-grinder, the uncle next to him is open-mouthed.
“You CAN’T grind upholstery foam!! I’ve never even heard of it…that’s nuts!”
:eek::eek::eek:

Stand back and watch, mate…this is WTF-Engineering in action !! :bs

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TT’s going for a stroll while the foam flies everywhere

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Looking better!!:so

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“Well…fugg me dead !!!” The uncle’s inspection of the job seems a bit of an eye-opener…
“Never seen anything like it…”

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The big moment…:glu

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No words needed here…:so:so

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TT plays around with the spoils

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Back at the tyre shop, things are looking good, too !!

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Wish, we could take those with us…just for memories sake…:cool::cool:

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It’s been a fun day…different…but fun for sure!! Let’s close it the right way …

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That’s right!!! LOOK AGAIN!!

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goodie

...
Re: Tornanti Road Yarns Part 3

Pete, I just l o v e to read your write-up about our trip. It's not only brilliantly written - most of it is also true!! :rofl: :so
Reading through all your posts and looking at the pics, I could just pack my suitcase and go again! - If it wasn"t for the current temperatures over there....... :cold::cold:
 

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
On the Road...day26

Despite the head being firmly burrowed in the pillows, the sound is unmistakeable…RAIN, and lots of it.:(
It’s a lazy get-up then, a drawn-out breakfast…

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Herfried comes up with the idea of going a little up-valley to Notsch, where there’s a local Polenta-festival chalked in for today…and even offers the spare-car for us to use. Sounds good….:clap:

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A “Tile-heater”…a slow-combustion stove with a small firebox heating the thick outer clay tiles. Sometimes they even come with a “baking-tube” a small compartment to slowly bake bread and other foods.
Construction is complex…therefore expensive…and the trade of “oven-builder” is slowly disappearing.
In the olden days, folks even slept on top of it through the cold winter months.

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The morning is spent sorting and backing-up photos and generally bumming around, getting another load of laundry out of the way, then it’s off in the old Opel Kadett 1.2…
ohhh booyyy!!

Loaded to the gills, the thing doesn’t pull the skin off a rice-pudding, brakes pull to one side and suspension’s non-exist….or , sort of…. replaced by a mixed orchestra of creaking and groaning sounds from every corner.:bs:bs

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The Opel (Holden/GM) Kadett 1.2 Adventure …

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Tense moments…:bs:bs

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You guessed it…Polenta’s got to do with corn.
This is a kind of Thanksgiving-Party…thanksgiving for a good harvest of corn.
The stuff is usually grown as winter-fodder for dairy and cattle, but while the harvest is on, all sorts of stuff is made from it.
From corn-on-the-cob to any kind of boiled, grilled, smoked, steamed, mashed savoury-varieties to the sweet versions of pancakes and mixed with fruit…there seems to be nothing that can’t be made from it.
Then add all the other local specialties, cheeses, smoked sausages and speck… the fire-brigade and most of the local council on a day-out…and there’s your Polenta-Festival!!:lol:
Let’s just stroll around and take a few potshots….

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glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
On the Road...day26 cont.

TT’s discovers another offering not sampled yet…

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This is gooood…those guys know how to have a good time….and sensational tucker and brews…and there’s always some oomphaoompha music in the background…:chug::chug:

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Cute, aye??:whistle:

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Really cute !! ….and yes, she has a few sisters….:whistle::whistle::bs

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Tim’s just as busy keeping the Kadett straight on the way home

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Herfried’s wife models her traditional garb for us…all hand-made and only worn on a few special occasions a year…

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Another good day…. Different…. and hugely enjoyable.:clap::clap:
It’s stopped raining through the afternoon and the grey-bellies started lifting…there’s hope!!

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glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
On the Road...day27

Should we, shouldn’t we?? :doh::doh:

The Vrsic-saddle in Slovenia and the Mangart Road really need good, clear weather…and there’s no quick extraction from it once the loop is started…
Let’s start out and see how it goes…

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The run towards Villach is quick, the roads are slowly drying out…with no traffic to speak off, the lowly Wurzen Pass into Slovenia is a race-track…not smooth, but wide and inviting….know, what I mean??:whistle::whistle:

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NOTHING to declare….:cool:

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HEY!!!…is there hope?

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…there is!! Bloody oath!:clap::clap:

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We don't know it yet......
....but here is another of those
CROWN-DAYS in the making…

…one of those unforgettable days, that will be talked about over and over…
This time the key-ingredient is ….AUTUMN !!
Somehow, this corner of the Alps has turned on the full scale of yellows, reds and rust, the slopes are one huge patchwork-carpet of colours…it’s MAGIC !!:so:so:so

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From Kranjska Gora it’s up the Vrsic-Saddle…come with us…

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glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
On the Road...day27 cont.

Along the way…the Russian Chapel

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Climbing towards the saddle…all corners are cobblestoned, worn into troughs by traffic… riding is a bit tricky sometimes, with the leaf-litter on top…

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glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
On the road...day27 cont.

Once more, we’re standing there…gawking open-mouthed…STUMPED!!
:glu:glu:glu

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….all this just CAN’T be real…:eek::eek::drool::drool:

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glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
On the Road...day27 cont.

Blinding sunshine up top :drool:

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The way down is just as breathtaking…

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