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Old 25-10-2007, 08:49 PM   #1
Mapping the next ride...
glitch's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 16,594
Default Tornanti road yarns...Parts 1+2

For those, who've had the luck to not have seen all (or any) of the run-up to this ride, here’s a quick summary:

4 Melbournians and a Tassie-ite hire 5 BMW’s ex Milano/ Italy for a 6 week ride around the European Alps. Planned were 10.000km of the smallest and tiniest roads that can be found on good maps… some dirt included. From the South of France to Slovenia in the east, no major roads were involved, no factory tours, no city tours…just plain, old back-country delights and as many bends as one could cram into any given day....EVERY day !

No GPS or any of the geeky bullshit, just a good set of Michelin maps and the honker sniffing for opportunities as they show up… asking the locals along the way.

The timing proved to be on-the-money, a glorious autumn was in full swing, not too hot or cold and only 3 days of rain over the whole stretch. Some sight-seeing, some touristy bits…
The local harvest-fiestas were in full swing and no school-holidays anywhere…
The only accom booked were the first 2 nights…and the last night…in Milano and the first night ‘on-the-road” near Cuneo, south of Torino.
Everything else was sourced as we went.
Clothes for a week, no more….plus the usual bike/ riding gear (after all, there’s a 20kg limit imposed by the airlines).

Our budget of 100 Euro/day was spot-on, accom ranged from Youth Hostel to 3-Star Swiss Hotels (all at Low-season prices this time of year).
We enjoyed mostly the BnB’s and other private accommodation.
The budget also covered a fresh set of tyres, all entry fees, cable-car and train rides, a trip to the Jungfraujoch and other items…it even covered the drinks and buying small knickknacks to take home.

Do it the same way again??


With a few, small tweaks and a fresh set of maps (the old ones got trashed by continuous abuse).
One change would be a day of scooter-hire in Milano….to partake in the urban scooter-drags. Christ, what a buzz !!!
Line up at ANY red light at ANY given time for a race…. but the Grand Prix would be the rush-hour traffic from about 4pm!

Want the goss on the rest of it?
Then get a box of chips and a crate of Coke and read on…, it'll be a HUUGE one.....just like the trip itself 8) 8)

NB: The pics used in the ride report come from 5 different cameras...shot by the 5 different people. No idea, who's pic is what...but all agreed to having their pics included....all credits go to the crew as a whole.
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Old 25-10-2007, 08:50 PM   #2
Mapping the next ride...
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 16,594

I wasn’t ashamed of that silent tear and the lump in my throat…
The huge pane of glass at Milano’s Airport Terminal felt cool and somehow soothing.

Above the smog-blanket of the industrious lowlands of Northern Italy, just right over there, towards Aosta, the white crowns of the snow-capped mountains hovered like a mirage.
6 weeks ago I’d had exactly the same view…. then it was a screaming invitation, a massive beckoning of those rocks to get into their midst.

There was anticipation, the call of the unknown, the tickle of discoveries and adventure.

Now, 6 weeks later, there was sadness…the heavy-hearted certainty, that those peaks would never, ever let me go…the yearning for those lumps of rock would never quit. …and I certainly didn’t want to leave !!

There was also a huge relief that all of us had made it back safe and sound…

The lump grew and tears flowed as the boarding call came through the PA…time to say final goodbyes to those piles of ice and rubble in the far distance and time to say goodbyes to 6 incredible weeks, unbelievable roads, stumping scenery and a big number of people along the way, who’d proven that in the end it’s the people who “make” a place!!

It had started 2 and a half years ago as the “Euro-Alps ‘07”, then turned into the “Vino, Pasta & Tornanti” and along the way morphed into the “Speck, Quark & Schnaps”…and…”I want my Milo, there aren’t enough powerpoints & Fuck, another bit fell off my Beemer”…depending on which stage of the trip one talks about and who of the bunch is replying.

For some trivial dribble: 5 bikes ran a total of 40.000km without serious problems, plenty of thrills but NO spills. None of the bunch got injured or sick, so…there’s the boring part out of the way. We didn’t even have a flat…so, there ya go!
Regular “brown” moments were had by all, front tyres seemed to have an incredibly short life-span, Beemers LOVE fresh oil…every 2. day, that is.
More to the bikes later though….

And if you decide to stick with this haphazard tale you’ll get behind…

…the snow-poles of death,
… the power point-ratings,
…Meiringen’s Quark-and-Yoghurt Raid,
…an angel called Anna,
…loosing hearts to Milano’s women,
…Adventures at the “Strudelwirtin”,
…modifying GS12 seats,
…the tunnel from hell,
…Slowenian Wonders,
…chasing a stark-raving Tasmanian down the SustenPass,
…“Lost in France”--- “Lost in Italy”---“Lost in Austria “
(and pretty much everywhere else),
…Pete’s brush with the “uniforms”,
…Shit-flicker country,
…raiding cheese-platters at breakfast, lunch and dinner
…under-dressed and over-exposed
…SNOW?—what fuggen snow? ,
…Heidi- the swaggering blonde customs officer….
…Pascals “castle”
…the roof of Europe
…the grand finale, Andermatt’s mind blowing rollercoaster
…”welcome at our place”----and heart-tearing farewells,
…The “Euros” can’t ride for shit ;-)
…speechless “Enduristi” at the Col de Morti
…the Assietta dream
…meeting the Alpenbiker Crew
…scraping bends till the arms fall off, welcome to the Dolomites
…I’m shitting myself…The Mangart in Slovenia
…”I haven’t drunk a beer in 10 years…PROST!!”
…Danny de Vito and Milano’s bordellos
…”which farkin’ country are we in?”

…and endless other tales all strung together by 8000km of the most magnificent single-laner roads and tracks, high-alpine country, glaciers and peaks, vistas so grand to make 5 Aussies go dead-quiet…

Over 10.000pics and 15hrs of video still have to be sorted and organized, things will take a little while….hope you don’t mind me leaning back, closing my eyes and ride it all over again…

I’LL BE BACK !!!!!
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Old 26-10-2007, 11:13 AM   #3
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 158

Ooh, I went on a bike ride. Ooh, I'm so good.

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Old 26-10-2007, 12:25 PM   #4
Mapping the next ride...
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 16,594

Originally Posted by loz
Ooh, I went on a bike ride. Ooh, I'm so good.

Squeal, mate, squeal
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Old 27-10-2007, 04:17 AM   #5
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Germany/Bavaria/Sonthofen
Posts: 277

Hi Pete,

I think, that'll become a very big big story!

Best greatings from the "Alpenbiker"

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