NZ_24 - A South Island Adventure Odyssey

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
Sorting the first batch of pics, the yarn might as well get started while everything is still fresh.

OH YEAH, do we have a story to tell :2thumbs-up: !!

A few thoughts and basics about the trip while the pics are uploading may answer some early questions and set the frame for the what, when and how.

The flights/ Air NZ....great, friendly and pretty much on time, the chaos mounted quickly at both CHC and AKL airports. The Kiwi security/customs/quarantine/scanning processing protocols and procedures are absolutely dismal, causing endless frustration and aggro to 100s of folks, families and kids in endless, repeated waiting loops. Christchurch incoming took a ridiculous 70 minutes until being out the front door, Auckland on the way back was even more idiotic, nearly causing us to miss the connecting flights. Melbourne in contrast took a breezy 25 minutes from getting off the airplane seat to walking out the front, luggage in hand, all checks and stuff done.

The bikes...proved a lucky Google find! All ran well without any issues, only one flat front hoop for a combined total of 15 weeks of usage across the South Islands finest gravel/dirt tracks. No breakdowns., no pretzlers and immediate re-starts after some river-submarining.
The rubber suggested by Greg, the owner of https://www.rideabikenz.co.nz/

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turned out to be the duck's guts and only started to show its suffering over the last couple of days, 4800km down and still hanging on pretty well through the twisties of the Banks Peninsula.
Fronts: Pirelli MT21
Rear: Dunlop D606
What a combo for grip and tight bends carving to gravel/rock/sand climbing.

South Island pre-Christmas/ Springtime:
Quite a different kettle of fish to the usually more solid and stable summer/ autumn period trips of yesteryear. The whole island is just bathed in colour, entire mountainsides in yellow bloom of the broom bushes or purple heath, flowers of all sizes and hues in mega-proportions abound. Pretty doesn't say it, it's simply stumping!
Somewhat of a nightmare to hay-fever sufferers though when a strong windgust covers half a caravan park with a pollen cloud that looks like a minor duststorm. And that's just from the stand of pine trees next door....
Good roads, great tracks, very little traffic, hardly any cops.
As usual around that time of year, the local councils had started to refresh the gravel cover on the unsealed roads and they sure don't muck around.... but then, NZ's famous for it and eventually one gets used to not packing the daks when hitting a long section of 3-4" deep "shingle" at a fair clip...unless it's mid-corner, just to triple the fun :bs

Prices in general:
Coming back from a prolonged Europe-stint just a few weeks earlier, I couldn't help but compare prices and bang-for-buck levels.
And NZ is EXXY, holy-schmoly :dollars:
Food and drink, accommodation and up to $3/liter for 91 fuel sometimes leave the throat dry. Coffee has improved greatly over the years but food is still pretty average in choice and quality (loads of deep-fried meat, fish, veg etc)
Then again, one doesn't ride the South Island for fancy grub and frilly pillows, aye? :)

Folks and chance-meetings along the way:
Oh man....those Kiwis are something else! Awesome folks one and all, incredibly friendly and helpful, bloody funny and genuine. If they don't do it first, just walk up to anyone and start a conversation....be ready to not get away for the rest of the day though. :)
So, nothing has changed on that score over the last 35 years then....which makes for a painful leave every time my NZ time is up.

I'll grab my bundle now.
Got a plane to catch,...





The jam-packed Nelson Rigg Sierra drypacks/ panniers strapped as 23kg airline luggage proved the best piece of bike luggage I didn't know I had!
A trusted, faded Kappa rolltop-drypack made for a near totally-waterproof set of kit even when under water in river crossings for minutes with the bike laying on top of it.
W-)

The ancient camelback-clone and skidlid for cabin luggage.

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glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
Logistics:
With folks coming from Sydney, Tasmania, Germany, North Island NZ and Melbourne things weren't easy to sync, but it all worked just fine.
Bernard from Hamilton on his Himalayan 411 joined us a couple of days after the start in Christchurch and stayed until the 2.last day in Cromwell.
Marty decided to run his own routes from Cromwell, leaving a core group of 4 for most of the time.


Routes and maps:
All home-dengled.
Due to weather and circumstances much had to be abandoned and redrawn on the fly, sometimes at the side of the road/ track or a nearby sports-ground/ carpark. Thankfully there are always similar-level alternatives around for a seat-of-the-pants route for a day or 3.
Accom (+ transfers/dinners/etc) was only booked ahead for the first and last nights plus a block of 5 days for "base-camp- riding" around Cromwell/ Otago.


Personal notes:
After nearly 25 years of putting together, organizing and running these kind of international group rides to all corners of the globe this was going to be my last one and there were many sentimental goodbyes along the 3week route.
I also often ran last in the group, taking more time to stop and soak up the place in big gobs for likely the last time.
A huge thanks goes out to Ant, Gero, Bernard and Marty stepping up and helping out a great deal especially when things didn't pan out as they should have.

I'll be on for smaller, shorter Aussie/Tassie rides though :)

Back to the yarn proper now :gday:
 

glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
To echo Dave and his "God Bless Suzukis!!" after dunking his DR in the Nevis and starting her up right after....here's my own

"God Bless Paper Maps!".

Invaluable when getting punched out of the ring by a 2-day massive weather front taking out half the Westcoast and then some.


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Hey, who rang the doorbell?
ME!!

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Re-jigging luggage and packs after picking up the bikes....bomb-site!


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Caught'cha!
Soft-soled Tassie-Dave trying the Stealthy Blitz on the duty-free Whiskey bottle :bs


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Gero and Marty with the welcome message, what a reception!


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With panniers packed and strapped it's off to "The Romanian" to shake those legs a bit and hopefully a half-decent dinner menu.
And boy....the KTM-riding boss of the place certainly makes us feel welcome, the food is excellent and the home-made on-the-house Slivovitz curls the toenails (as does the bill 1-0 minutes later :gulp:)
WTF....you only live once!
 
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glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
OMG....what a morning!!


Looking down on the Canterbury Plains from the very first hill of the Lees Valley Rd.



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300k's.... due to a shorter route planned but barred by a farm gate I couldn't find.
After having organized permission to pass weeks in advance, damn!!
Still...the pics tell the story :)


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no....NOOOO...I'm not getting wet feet!


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glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
Okuku Pass


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A sign of things to come....
and only lunchtime of day1 :2thumbs-up:


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The old Culverden Stock Route for the afternoon...I love that tucked-away gem.


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Marty up front, Ant copping some stones?....or checking if the arse-end is still there?



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Dropping off the range towards Culverden


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Looking into the ranges south of Hanmer Springs, a peaceful spot this time of year.


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Engines off....end of day1

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glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
The usually benign Jollies Pass out of Hanmer was a rude start to the day.
Badly rutted, washed out, rocky and overgrown.
Burned most of those "Iggz Binny" breakfast calories. :)

When the Rainbow Rd. and Sedgemere Track are still closed....it only leaves the Molesworth for the way north, eh?
So we made a feast of it!!



Hanmer 6am, looking into the Tekoa and Organ Ranges to the south-west.


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Liners and layers coming off after the "Follies-on-the-Jollies" dragging some Tasmanian punter's DR out of a cluster of broom bushes.


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Yeah...it gets to you!
Real quick.


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Gero...enjoying the space.



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The old Acheron Accommodation House near the junction of Acheron and Clarence Rivers.

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Gero making the rear Dunlop earn its keep!



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Yo, I thought they'd swapped movies on me mid-flic!

Never seen a horse driving a Unimog?



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"Living on an island" or what's that tune?

But not THAT small!


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Enjoying every bloody meter of it....



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glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
....before the deceptively long run down the Awatere Valley towards the SH1 highway and coast



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Missed out on the run up Mt. Altimarloch as we'd spent too much time enjoying the Molesworth////and weather was puling in blanking out the mountain tops.

Time for a run across little Taylors Pass into Blenheim.... a new pair of ADV-boots to replace those ancient Tasmanian MotoCross- torturers for Dave....the meetup with Bernard who'd come across from the North Island with his sparkling Enfield Hima to join us for a few days....and a sort of luke-warm :annoyed: pizza at the formerly highly-praised Dodson Street Beer Garden.

The Molesworth took the cake today!
 
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glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
Bernard and the Hima had waited for us in Blenheim, great to meet up again after 10 years of only emails. That, and Dave's new ADVboots bought at local "drug-money" rates, deserved some celebrations at the Dodson Street Brew House before the attempt on Mt. Patriarch and Lake Chalice in the Richmond Forest Park the next morning.


A breakfast raid of the local bakery and a 55km slog up the Wairau River banks later and Marty is squirting up the Top Valley Road, start of the fun.

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Never mind the other group of riders tag-teaming along, supposedly knowing the route and turn offs.
So we found the bad news first...which didn't change when checking it out despite the signs.


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An immediate reshuffle of routes and all associated logistics was needed right there and then, possibly even building redundancies into the next few days' plans to account for a massive weather front looming up from the south-west.
That's the good part of flying by the seat of your pants, rather than following a set route with bookings etc.

Ultimately this turned into a long day in the saddle, 330k's of tight backroads, gravel, exhilarating views and vistas and a "red-zone" twisties polka on Hwy6, topped by an increasingly desperate search for a stay for the night.
That's the bad part of flying by the seat of your pants :)


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glitch

Mapping the next ride...
Staff member
A quick double-back to the highway, a drone up to Havelock, a re-fuel to make sure of enough juice at the end of the day and it's off into the Sounds towards French Pass, a place I couldn't wait to finally see.


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No shortage of surprises...


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Maybe something a bit more substantial and "fresh outta the oven"?



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The perfect lunch spot!!


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Those ridges never seem to end....



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